Narcisse91

Haha, whatever pal. I don't think anyone knew what you were talking about...

I'm still not sure why you're paranoid about him running a new power wire, and why you think it'll mess up the "digital circuits".

85RX7GS

iTrader: (1)

It's definitely not for the simple minded, like yourself.



Is that what you think? LOL

Narcisse91

Ok, now you're going to personal attacks...

Sorry I ever bothered correcting you. My mistake.

chastan

The charging system is binary?

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

RMD that sounds fine, thats exactly what I did on mine too, but I would recommend re grounding the battery to the frame and grounding the alternator bracket to the frame... The strut tower bolts work great for this task... Also the slotted part on the alt bracket makes a nice place to use a spare bolt and make a new ground, w/o interuppting the torque of other botls on the motor itself

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Hey to point out the obvious, but if it's not charging well at idle but it is >1000 rpms, you need to change your alternator pulley. It's too big.

Caveat-------->If you go too small on the pulley, you'll burn up the alternator bearings if you hit 7500 rpms on a consistent basis.

Your problem was not with the wires at all....

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Except I used to get 13.5 volts before the battery died with this same alternator pully (which is also the same diameter as stock). Then, the battery died, wouldnt take a charge (started sitting below 12 volts at idle), and now I think it fried my voltage regulator again (or at least gave it a good shot) because the battery wouldnt take a charge so it was "working too hard". This is exactly what happened last time. Ive had three of these damn alternators now. Last time, the battery was dead, I put a new alt in with an old battery and fried the regulator trying to use the alternator to "charge" the battery. So, I have a feeling this alternator is on its way out...Again. Always buy with lifetime warranties .

~T.J.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Once the battery died, did you replace it? So, the new battery with the same alternator and pulley couldn't hit the 13.5v at idle? If it was the same battery, it needs to be tossed or you need to have a deep discharge done to it and then a slow charge to kill the surface charge it has taken on. Course, if you got a new battery, never mind....

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

I have a brand new battery, and it still doesnt hit 13.5 at idle. I replaced it at Sears and got a brand new one off the shelf. This is the same thing it did the last time. I had an old Die Hard, got a new alternator, then, fried the voltage regulator cause of the dead battery. I swapped the alternators again, got a new battery and all was fine. Well, I killed my battery, and then continued to drive it like that, so now I think I kinda roasted my regulator again. At least to the point its not compensating for electrical accesories when they are tuned on like it used to.

~T.J.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

things that make you go, "Hmmmmmmmmmm...." ...these stock alternators or did you do the 80 amp alt conversion?

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Stock replacement.

~T.J.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

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