in actuallity if you turn the key the only only one that is wrong is relay #3. (but I made it that way for easy wiring) it will change to 87 inturn not letting power goto the fan.When the continutiy switch in the choke looses continuity it would change relay two to an off position. relay 3 loosing input would turn to normally open turning the fan on. so If relay 2 has no input at all relay 3 would run constantly no matter the ingnition switch position. thats why relay 1 is there to kill the power to relay three. The relays work I already tested that.

Any one have a good switch so I can test this theory?

 

how expensive is the switch anyways....and what did u do that u don't need the switch anymore?

 

The switch, I dont know how much...


What did I do that I dont need the switch?? Alot

details here

another thread of the forum 56k warning lotsa pictures

 

ohhh i saw ur post man i've been eyeing ur turbo setup.....dint realise u wus u .....booooteeefoooll

 

one more question....the switch in the waterpump housing....in a stock setup what does it do and with a stocksetup(while it's being used for watever) can i still use it to power my e-fan?

 

I dont have mine in the stock setup anymore so I cant test it. if it has positive or negative polarity you would just have to make minor changes to the wiring in the relays. Should in a perfect world be able to use it.

 

In non-SE cars, the switch is for the choke. In SE cars, there is a similar thing, but it is a coolant temperature sensor instead of a switch.

 

ahh i see.....thanx se addict