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electric carb and rats nest removal

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Old 04-15-07, 01:10 AM
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electric carb and rats nest removal

Hello, Im a little stumped and this may be all over the map, but it is to do with nikki carbs.

I am tring to breath life into my old car and I have some carb troubles. I tried to rebuild what I believe to be a 84-85 carb with the richer solenoid for cars with a M/T. I also have a 83 carb. by that i a deducting as it has the updated air vent solenoid but no richer solenoid. I have a header setup with no O2 sensor, nor do I remember ever seeing one on a 12a in my ten years of FBs. During my rats nest removal and cleaning up the engine bay I had only left the air vent solenoid functioning. I have removed the tps switch and the like. converted to manual choke and manual secondaries.

According to the FSM having one part of the electric carb equation jacks the whole deal up and the carb is rendered useless. Remember that i have nothing hooked up except for the air vent solenoid. any opinions on how this would effect a stock 12a with a stripped down but unmodified nikki. the richer solenoid is still on the carb but not hooked into the power grid.

The carb on the car idles like a dream. odd thing is when I rebuilt it back in november it flooded something fierce. last weekend I had a chance to dick around with it and it magically stopped leaking. I rechecked the floats per the FSM and that is accurate. I also had an assistant double check for accuracy. fuel is 3/4 up from the line on the sight glass. when I step on the throttle fuel comes up through the carb like someone is taking a windex bottle and spraying it out at me.

I used the NAPA rebuild kit (numerous times) I always thought I couldnt rebuild a carb I think it may be the NAPA kit. I am going to start with the Autozone kit as recommended by the forum. I plan on using the 83 carb as it does not have the richer solenoid. Unless I hear another opinion

BTW, when I hooked up a vacuum gauge the needle bounced a lot. but idle is smooth....?

Thanks
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