mjm4jc

Before I decided to put the carpet and floor matting back together since I had it all out from troubleshooting the ECU, I thought I would probe the ECU one more time to make sure it's ok. I found that the "E" (AFM) pin is only reading 2.8 volts. With the outside temp at only 80 degrees, it should read between 4-6 volts. The funny thing is that I swapped ECU's and AFM's and the reading was the same. So, I'm wondering if the "E" pin is tied in with the "l" (el, not eye) pin, which is the air intake temp sensor. I'm getting 6v for that, but it should read between 8-10v. However, since I swapped AFM's, I am guessing that the sensor is the one in the dynamic chamber and not the one in the AFM.

Let me know what you guys think.

Mike

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Mike,

What about your other voltages? Are these the only ones that are off?

mjm4jc

Kent,

There are a few that are off, but I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the problem.

"b" (Relief solenoid valve control unit) = 10v (should be 12v).

"k" (Water Temp Switch) = 12v (should be less than 1.5v). I believe this one has to do with the fan kicking on. I'm not worried about this one.

"n" (Vacuum control valve) = 1v (should be 12v). TPS is set correctly.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The vent/vacuum solenoids are related to the TPS setting. If the TPS is set, the vacuum control solenoid should be 12v (and vent solenoid at 0v). Was the engine warm when you did the test?

Water temp switch is the one in the bottom of the radiator. It may just be unplugged or a broken connection.

mjm4jc

Kent,

I drove the car and got her really warm. It turns out the TPS was a little out. I readjusted it, and I got 12v for "n".

I didn't re-check the other ones, but I'm betting that nothing changed. I'm still wondering about the other values.


Another thing that is odd is that all of sudden I have to turn the variable resistor all the way to rich to get a smooth idle. The only thing I messed with within since I got me SE running good was the ignition. I put the 2GCDFIS back on. To make sure that the problem had nothing to do with this, I put the stock leading coil back on, but I still have to go all the way rich to get a smooth idle.

BTW----When I put the stock leading coil back on, the car had far more power than with the 2gen coil. I can't figure that out. I'm sure I had the coil wired up correctly. I moved the trailing wires over to the leading side on the cap, including the coil wire. Is that right?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

6v for the intake air temp sensor (l) sounds about right if the car was hot. There is quite a bit of heat soak and this sensor will often be about 140* or so with a hot engine.

For the AFM temp sensor, it could be one of the other AFM voltages that is off is affecting this measurement. You could test the AFM to make sure it is okay (I know that you tried 2 with the same result). The AFM test only takes about 5 minutes or so to do.

Go ahead and test all of the pins and report any that are out of whack (at least check the AFM related pins). This will help to determine what the issue is.

mjm4jc

Kent,

The AFM checked good. Each pin was in range according to the FSM.