Rotorhead34

Anyone using these rotors and pads? How good are they and how well do they perform?

84RX_Se7en

Are you constantly braking from 100+ mph? I've found/have been told repeatedly that in normal driving you really won't notice much of a difference. It doesn't make them grip better. All it does is help with heat dispersion so with frequent braking you don't get slippage and lose braking power. Now I guess without ABS if you lock them up and then have to brake again you'll have a harder time stopping. Still, if you need that much heat control on your pads go for it. They make for good track pads since you'll be hitting the brakes at high speeds a lot.

Rotorhead34

I didn't ask for all of that. Has anyone used them and how do they perform?

84RX_Se7en

Well I was just telling you how they perform in a literal sense for what they do. Just explaining you probably won't notice much for all the extra money you'll spend if you're not using them in a racing application.

Rotorhead34

Have you used these before?

Geauxkart

I have them on my fc - but the haven't run them yet. The car is still in progress. I have powerslots on my other car, and they look to be similar in construction and quality. I'm hoping they will hold up.

PR84REX

i bought my cross/slotted rotors front and rear with ceramic brake pads...off of ebay store rotoworks or something like that...and im completely satisfied...

84RX_Se7en

I've driven cars with them and I didn't notice any real difference between them and cars without them. I told you the exact application as explained to me what they are for. Unless you are heating your brakes repeatedly from heavy braking you won't notice much difference. Pretty straight forward.

Rotorhead34

I'm getting real close to having to replace all my pads and rotors anyway. The rotors are original and expensive to replace, so I thought this may be a more economical avenue. As far as stopping from a 100 everytime you turn around, no I don't do that, however, with the turbo set I run, I assure you, it doesn't take much to heat those rotors and pads up. A couple quick stops and I feel fade. I appreciate the feedback, I just wanted to know if they were decent enough to consider or not or if there was someone outthere that needs to be avoided. Thanks.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

With stock sized tires and street driving, there is no difference, and yes, I have them on the widebody. Brake pads and tires will make more of a difference in braking efficiency before the slotted rotors will.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

i have the rotors on my fc and have been driving on them for a while now they are awsome and you cant beat the price

84RX_Se7en

It's cool, I understand the interest in them. Especially running turbo. You can get up in speed pretty quick even in stop go driving so you need some good cooling stopping power. Not meaning to imply to not buy them. It's nice to know if you need to you've got that extra stopping oomph in your setup. And yea, they are all ready expensive, why not spend a little more and get the best of the best. Go for it. Again, from experience I have had driving on them I didn't notice anything(driving on the street at normal speeds) but in actual application they are good for cooling and stopping brake fade. Obviously they work well in that application since every racing setup runs them pretty much.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I wouldnt trust them. Something about getting drilled brake rotors for cheap on ebay screams trouble. Also, ask if they are cast with holes, or drilled with holes. Then ask if they are chamferred. Odds are they are just straight drilled, which tends to crack after hard track use, and wears your pads down super fast. I refuse to buy any rotors that are not cast with holes.

matts85rx7

They make a difference in the fact that the pads do not "float" on the rotor due to the thin layer of gasses. In addition, the drilling lowers rotating mass. Yes, they do make a noticeable difference, but I am not sure of the ebay quality. One thing you should never skimp on is brakes, they are the only thing slowing you down....

n2318r

Where are you getting this information? You have it backwards. Drilled rotors are for looks only. As long as you don't track the car or do a lot of consistent heavy braking, drilled rotors might be ok. (As for cheap ebay versions, who knows?)

Read this thread from DamonB:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...rilling+rotors

Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

Power Slot: "At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today’s elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process."

Stop Tech: "StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors." (Note that even though Stop Tech sells both drilled and slotted rotors they do not recommend drilled rotors for severe applications.)

Wilwood: "Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

From Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate"

From Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors?
In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today’s race pad technology, ‘outgassing’ is no longer much of a concern...Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer’s offerings."

Grassroots Motorsports: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

AP Racing: "Grooves improve 'cleaning' of the pad surfaces and result in a more consistent brake performance. Grooved discs have a longer life than cross-drilled discs."

also from AP: "Cross drilled...can compromise disc life. Radiused drilled...mainly used for aesthetic reasons on road applications."

...I'll keep looking for more. Note that these quotes are from people who are in the racing business, not the poser business.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

also, if you physically drill holes in the disc as 99% of manufactures do, you mess with the metal's structural integrity. having them cast = FTW

84RX_Se7en

I was only talking about pads not even talking on the lines of rotors. I wouldn't use drilled rotors ever.

Rotorhead34

n2318r

You are very correct on all counts. I have been told in other circles the very same thing. Fact of the matter is, the best brake setup for a GSL-SE is stock rotors with either Baer or Hawk pads. This comes from a couple guys autocrossing and time attacks. I have also thought of power slots. I have them on my van because the stock rotors would not stop warping. Yeah its a chevy.

I saw some ebay companies advertising Brembo rotors in different configurations. I called Brembo, and they claim not to make a rotor for my car, however, they do make a 12a stock rotor.

Any suggestions on quality rotors?

blazer1313

I notice less brake fade with the cross drilled slotted I got from ebay. The only thing that is defective when I got them was one of the bearing housings was molded so when the rotor spins it is a tiny bit off balance due to more material on one side then the other...I didn't get the ones with pads. I used the best Raybestos pads for now...Took a bit long for them to break in...I want to upgrade to Hawk HP...

matts85rx7

Ok, simple enough,
Porsche- uses drilled brakes on its GT3 911, a track car that has been BARELY modified for street use, the Cayman S, one of the best stopping vehicles period, most porsches use these.
Ferrari- EVERY vehicle uses them, even the TRACK enzo.
BMW- Well, the M5 uses them, as does the M3 GTR V8, a TRACK CAR.
The list only grows longer.
Porsche big reds brakes, MEANT FOR TRACK USE ONLY, with track only pads, you guessed it, drilled. I will go with their race proven heritage any day.

OnlyOnThurs

During the DAytona 24 a couple weeks back...they showed some of the cars i nthe pit area while there were changing tires...alot of those cars had only SLOTTED ROTORS...no drilled. Im sticking with slotted rotors only. Those rotors from those companies (ferrari...etc) cast the holes with when they are making the rotors. you gotta becareful OF THESE EBAY companies. THEY just drill them after they recieve them...which comprimises the structural intergirty.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

Factory Mazda front rotors 1980 RX-7, cross-drilled at MATSCO and run on the street for two years, at MSR and at some autocrosses and TMS' parking lot = no cracks at all.

Don't believe the hype.

2wankel

iTrader: (1)

I do not think just buying the rotors alone you would notice, but...

When bought my slotted and crossdrill rotors from ebay. I also bought new brake fluid, new calipers, SS brake lines, hawk HP pads and new tires. It was like night and day, my car stopped on a dime. In a year and a half I was on my second set of pads. I did not notice anything when I changed them. I'm a very spirited driver and I need this on the street others might not. Well I think I do

matts85rx7

Agreed, and for the drilling at receiving point, I agree, most CHEAP rotors do that, but good companies like Brembo and such do quite a better job. Drilled rotors already have proven they can be ultra reliable.

mar3

iTrader: (8)

In a year and a half I was on my second set of pads.

I was beginning to think it was just me...glad to see someone else has this "problem"...lol