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Originally Posted by theFBthatcould
(Post 9778227)
screw this shit now i am left with no car because of this mod am i the only one??i used fresh heatsink grease on igniter also used the resistor now i got no car so who is gonna send me an ignitor
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Originally Posted by JoeNoble
(Post 9778424)
Dont know but i bet if you ask nicely somebody has one just layin around that they'd be willing to give you for whatever it cost to ship.
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yeah gettin stranded will do that. good exercise though. i was just sayin there's always someone on here that's willin to help out another rotor head.
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i just ran the wires directly to the 2 posts on the coil. mounted it. swapped the plug wires over and fired it off. didnt take that grey case apart and do all that wiring bs. fired up instantly and idled smoother. a lil more bottom end pep/throttle responce. not bad for 20 bucks and 5 minutes!
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That's the way it's supposed to be done! Don't get confused by all those instructions posted all over the place!
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now heres the question... if i want to add a msd 6a to the car in with the 2g coil. will that help? or is that pretty much pointless? or would there be a better way to hook up a msd box?
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Originally Posted by Metallic_rock
(Post 2351748)
Ok, so I believe it was inittab who did this orriginally and explained it in not so great detail. I'm going to try to do a little better.
Ok, on a stock 2nd gen leading coil there are two terminals- one for L1, one for L2. Using this coil will keep you from having to tear apart your dizzy and get another ignitor to get the same results. This was the simplest mod I've ever done, and it took me a total of 20 minutes!! (5 of which was deciding where to put it!!) 1. Get your 2nd gen coil with ignitor. 2. Cut off the electrical connector for the stock wiring. 3. Take the 4 screws off the back. 4. You will see on the left side, a large ignitor - cut all the wires off of it as close as you can to the ignitor. (you won't need it, anyway) Now, un-screw the 3 screws that hold it in. Discard the 2nd gen ignitor. 5. On the right hand side, you will see a balast resistor. There will be a black wire going to and from it. When you cut the wires, previously, you would have noticed that 2 black wires were soldered together on the ignitor. Splice those two wires together. (connecting the - side of the coil to the bottom of the resistor) 6. Disconnect the positive side of the coil. - 7mm nut (you will have to take the plastic cover with L1, L2 on it, off) 7. You're almost done!! Screw the cover back on the ignitor. Mount the assy- closer to the spark plugs, the better. (shorter wires=less resistance) 8. Disconnect the stock wiring from the stock Leading Coil. Connect the wire which was previously connected to the - side of the stock coil to the black wire that you would have left sticking out the top of the 2nd gen assy. Do the same for the positive side. 9. connect leading wires to the 2nd gen coil, then to the leading plugs. Move your trailing wires to the leading position on the dizzy. 10. Start, drive, park, pull yourself out of the back of your seat. Jump up and down and say "hell, yeah, that thing is fast!!!" Pictures soon to come. (I have a digi cam now!!) |
In before the lock.
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Hi Folks;
Many thanks to Jeff20B, and all the other folks who have worked on direct fire ignition, and generously posted their experience. Did the 2nd gen coil direct fire mod about 1 1/2 years ago. Worked fine for all that time (about 3K miles). But last month, I got the dreaded "lost engine power/lost tach/lost fuel pump" problem, AND it was INTERMITTENT! Let it cool for a while, and all was well - - until the next time. So, since its "power/tach/pump" I know the problem is with the leading coil - which is now a 2nd gen. So, first I'll try reseating the old J-109 igniter, that's been gutted and used for signal routing, with fresh heatsink material. If that doesn't work, I'll put in another 2nd gen coil. How's that sound to y'all? I'll let you know the progress. |
Originally Posted by mjg0711
(Post 10520722)
Hi Folks;
Many thanks to Jeff20B, and all the other folks who have worked on direct fire ignition, and generously posted their experience. Did the 2nd gen coil direct fire mod about 1 1/2 years ago. Worked fine for all that time (about 3K miles). But last month, I got the dreaded "lost engine power/lost tach/lost fuel pump" problem, AND it was INTERMITTENT! Let it cool for a while, and all was well - - until the next time. So, since its "power/tach/pump" I know the problem is with the leading coil - which is now a 2nd gen. So, first I'll try reseating the old J-109 igniter, that's been gutted and used for signal routing, with fresh heatsink material. If that doesn't work, I'll put in another 2nd gen coil. How's that sound to y'all? I'll let you know the progress. |
If you guys are looking for J-109 shoot me a PM I have em.
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Originally Posted by mjg0711
(Post 10520722)
Hi Folks;
Many thanks to Jeff20B, and all the other folks who have worked on direct fire ignition, and generously posted their experience. Did the 2nd gen coil direct fire mod about 1 1/2 years ago. Worked fine for all that time (about 3K miles). But last month, I got the dreaded "lost engine power/lost tach/lost fuel pump" problem, AND it was INTERMITTENT! Let it cool for a while, and all was well - - until the next time. So, since its "power/tach/pump" I know the problem is with the leading coil - which is now a 2nd gen. So, first I'll try reseating the old J-109 igniter, that's been gutted and used for signal routing, with fresh heatsink material. If that doesn't work, I'll put in another 2nd gen coil. How's that sound to y'all? I'll let you know the progress. Unless you have rewired these parts of the ignition system, tach and fuel pump are triggered by the trailing coil, not the leading... :) . |
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
(Post 10522076)
Unless you have rewired these parts of the ignition system, tach and fuel pump are triggered by the trailing coil, not the leading... :)
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
(Post 10522076)
Unless you have rewired these parts of the ignition system, tach and fuel pump are triggered by the trailing coil, not the leading... :)
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
(Post 10522076)
Unless you have rewired these parts of the ignition system, tach and fuel pump are triggered by the trailing coil, not the leading... :)
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Duh! The Trailing! OK, good to check. Thanks. I'll check that out soon, and let you know.
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Oh, another thought: OK, the tach and fuel pump are triggered by the trailing coil. So, if I loose all power, it's because of the loss of fuel, not the loss of all spark, because the leading coil does most of the work, and the engine would run with just the loss of the trailing coil. Hmmm. When the engine runs (remember - it's Intermittent!) it's smooth. Hmmmm.... Does my logic seem sound?
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Thanks JoeNoble for the tip on the GM control module. I'll check on one today.
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great post thanks for the info
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Hi; I'm back, fixing the trailing igniter problem on my GSL-SE. I decided to try JoeNoble's idea and replace the stock J-109 igniter with a replacement HEI module. If you go to the Summit Racing site, you should search for the terms "ignition control module" or "ignition module". I decided to try the Summit Racing SUM-850100 - Summit Racing® High Output 4-Pin HEI Performance Modules; http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-850100/ These modules have the 4-pin configuration that we've all been talking about. Please Note: I'm Not Advertising for Summit! :blush: But their web site WAS very helpful.
It seems as if any HEI 4-pin module will work - there are several manufacturers making them: MSC, Mallory, Moroso, and a couple others. Thanks to all the good folks who have posted pics, schematics and experience. I've got a friend who is fabricating a neat mounting plate for the new igniter. He is CNC cutting it, and giving the mounting plate cooling fins! His name is Kelly, and his site is: http://www.industriousdog.com/ :icon_tup: I'm working on the wiring now, and will post pics with the mod, and how it works. |
Originally Posted by mjg0711
(Post 10622834)
It seems as if any HEI 4-pin module will work - there are several manufacturers making them: MSC, Mallory, Moroso, and a couple others. Thanks to all the good folks who have posted pics, schematics and experience. in aus we use bosch BIM024 modules as the cheap replacement in stock, SLIDFIS and DLIDFIS installs , and the spark ( when used with a HEC coil ) is much better though with these igniters , with a SLIDFIS 2nd gen coil please use a ballast resister of around 0.2 ohm or more ( i cut and rewind the original points coil type resister ) however,, in DLIDFIS they will handle 0.4 ohm HEC coils no issue whatsoever ( and simply leaves SLIDFIS 2nd gen coil mods for dead )
Originally Posted by bumpstart
here are some of the cross references that i have
i will post up the obscure ones for international readers who have different suppliers i will top them up as i find more,, have some others scribbled down on notes somewhere replacement J105 ( s1 rx7 module,, 323 module ) alternative codes - FORD = D97Z-12A97B LUCAS= DAJ212 MAZDA= 8173-24-910 MITSUBISHI= MD607364, MD607400, J105 MAGNETI MARELLI= 940 038 561 replacement J109 ( s2/3 rx7 and HB cosmo modules ) MAZDA= ( E ) 301-24-910 MITSUBISHI= j109, J007 X00471 TRANSPO= MM 471 KEM= E5007 LECLERCQ= 0300076 HYBRITEX= HNI 1004 WIEGEL-MODMI 620006 KEM E 5007 MOBILETRON IG-M 006 replacement BIM 024 bosch part= 9 222 067 016, 9 222 067 017, 9 222 067 021, 9 222 067 024 tridon= TIM015 ( around $40 at trade price ) TRANSPO = BM322 Unipoint= IM810 Mobiletron= IG-B006 champion= CM410 FUEL MISER= ACCER= DELCO= |
The one I'm about to replace my leading J-109 with is a Dr100 from Autozone.
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Thanks Bumpstart and JoeNoble. I just finished up the swap to an HEI 4-pin module for my trailing plugs. I used the module from Summit Racing.
Bumpstart, you got me wondering about if I picked the correct igniter to use. I don't know what a "smart" HEI igniter is. I hope the one I installed is adequate. I installed the module on the mounting plate fabricated by my friend Kelly O'Toole. Then I wired it up according to the great schematics on this thread. And IT WORKED! :lol: It fired right up, smooth idle, correct RPM at idle and no stumbling. My next task is to check for excessive heat coming off the HEI module, and overall reliability. I hope these pics help show the installation clearly. https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36837 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36838 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36839 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36840 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36841 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36842 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36843 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36844 https://www.rx7club.com/picture.php?...ictureid=36845 |
Very nice! Now are you using the stock ignitor for the leading cuz honestly your not gonna benefit as much from the trailing as you would the leading.
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Hi JoeNoble; I did an upgrade earlier to a 2nd gen coil using direct fire ignition. That's been a great mod with absolutely no problems in the 2 years since I did it.
I believe that you're absolutely correct; a trailing mod really doesn't do as much as a leading ignition mod. I did this trailing mod because my stock J-109 igniter failed, and it took with it the tach and the fuel pump. I needed to fix the trailing ignition just to get the car running. So I did the HEI mod on the trailing. Thanks for your support during my tinkering. |
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