Really? I know J-109s can only handle about 3 amps before they enter current limiting mode (and send heat into the heat sink). GM HEIs can handle 5 or 6 amps. No ballast resistor allows more current through the primary 2nd gen coil winding. I think I'd want to play it safe and use a resistor.

Maybe I'll try it with and without the resistor with the GM HEI, since they can handle a little more abuse. I'll keep stock Diamond coils with J-109s.

Ken has tried it with and without the resistor and it doesn't make any difference, the J109 is fine. I know, he told me. Twice. I'm going to do it this way on my next 2GDFI installation, without the ignitor housing it will look really cool and even simpler, you just hook (+) to (+) and (-) to (-).

Note: I am a third of the way through my first tank of gas with the new 2GDFI in the white 84 GSL and it looks like I'll break my gas mileage record easy, should see 400 miles plus on the first tank of gas. Imagine, an upgrade that generates more power AND improves gas mileage.

We all know how "senior citizens" drive. 50mph on the fast lane. :naughty:

Jeff

What symptoms would you expect to see if the ignitor was going into current limiting mode?

Also, in case I decide to test this both ways (I have no resistors left, so would be going to radio shack for a replacement), what are the specs on the stock resistor?

Thanks! :)

"We all know how "senior citizens" drive. 50mph on the fast lane."

Wacky, I had it up to 100 last night on a quiet stretch of 85, but mostly it's highway miles at 80 mph, in and out of Atlanta traffic, within the +/- 10 mph speed limit here in good ole Georgia.

I've burnt half a tank and just got back from the Old Guys with 12As meeting with 234 miles on the trip meter - looks like 400 is going to fall. Man I'm loving this car and this upgrade.

Ken I hope you get this figured out before I follow your advice and put the 2nd gen coil in my 85 GSL without the resistor. Not that it matters much, what's a J109 or two?

Ray

lol. Im just teasing you mang. :icon_tup:

OK, it's about time they got this thing fixed. I gassed up this morning, about 6:00 a.m. on my way in to work. 402.3 miles on the tripmeter, 15.06 gallons of gas, that's a lot of gas mileage: 26.713 mpg according to my Bowmar Brain.

Yes this mod will pay for itself in happiness and gas: Do It.

Wacky, what's a mang?

Ra

It's slang Ray Ray! :D

One symptom is extreme heat. If it gets too hot, the slime inside will ooze out and the components and/or solder joints will fail. Other symptoms are intermitant running or just simply dead.

I don't know the actual specs on the resistor, but it is a very high wattage and low resistance kind of thing. Perhaps you'd have better luck at autozone. Maybe a VW or Dodge ballast resistor would work.

Thanks Jeff. I haven't had any symptoms like that, and its been about a year now.

However, I won't be doing any testing for a bit. My motor finally tossed an apex seal on the way home from work yesterday...

Will this work with my SE?

yes

so I installed this mod today. two different coils and both would not work if the resistor was wired in. both models were with the resistor on the positive side. it was a very frustrating install.

cleaned up part of my idle problem and the power delivery is a lot smoother. just need to figure out why the engine seems like it is going to fall apart at 6K+ RPM.

This setup is working just fine for my SE. Simple and cost effective IMO. :icon16:

Check your timing...

Fitted this mos the other day nice and easy, the biggest problem was my leads! i had to change the 2 ends so that sat further in to the T11 coil pack but the car runs smoother at idle not really taken it for a good drive yet but will be tonight going on a London Tunnel Run, loads of RX7's driving through the tunnels of London UK:icon_tup:
Mark

Replacing the distributor cAP
 

Im assuming it follows standard procedure with non rotary engines. Is there any thing trickey about replacing the distributor cap on a 13b??? any suggestions or advice will help

Distributor cap? Nothing really, just make sure its on straight when you mount it...

Hmm I'm actually glad the noob bumped this up. I'll have to give this a go and see how it goes. My SA has been a sporatic pain to get started

Okay guys I've got a good question for you. For the direct fire set up, would it be more or less beneficial to use the stock 1st Gen plugs in the trailing side vs. the FC plugs?

I think that its a pretty widely accepted opinion that the trailing plugs do pretty much nothing in the combustion process. I believe that Mazda used the trailing plugs to try and get a cleaner burn, and help meet emissions standards. I know that Jeff has done a lot of research concerning this, as he was trying to adapt his DLIDFIS to the trailing plugs. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I think that he ended up figuring out that the trailing plugs only supply 0.7% of the spark that the leading plugs do? I could be off here, but the point is that the trailing plugs do so little, there isn't much point in messing with them.

Is this the video of your clutch fan AGAIN Ray??? :rofl: Just messing with ya. Nice example of how little the trailing ignition does on our setup. :bigthumb:

You got some arching going on in there. Nice vid. :)

I deleted the video with the clutch fan, complaints were received.

About the arching, if the juice can't go to the distributor it finds the next best ground. At 10,000 volts or whatever it is, it doesn't have any trouble jumping that gap.

Another way to demonstrate this is grab the trailing coil wire (or leading, if you still have it hooked up) at the distributor cap and pull it off while the engine is running - Oh yeah!