The positive of the fan goes to the thermostat then to a inline fuse then to the 12v power source. Would the positive of the leading igniton coil be an okay place. The fan won't kick on while I start the car? Here are some pictures:

 

get some shorter bolts and remove that aluminum piece that the original fan bolted to.

 

That is the mr2 fan, mine is exactly the same, and it came from a mid '80s MR2.

I mounted mine on a first gen Radiator.

with or without the panel, the fans pull more than enough air through the radiator.
I'm thinkin about making a fiberglass panel to replace it, that will direct the cool air up to my air cleaner. kinda cold air intake.

 

I got the fan on and wired it all up and it worked fine, but since the positive of the fan goes to the leading igniton coil when I shut the car while the fan is running the engine runs on for a couple of seconds. Does anybody know a way around this? Thanks

 

don't hook it up to your ignition, and you won't have that problem

sorry, i couldn't help myself

the best thing to do is get a E-Fan Relay system, you can get a decent one for 20 bucks or so... mine cost $35.

it will automatically turn the fan on and off based on temperature, therefore it's not running constantly. and not messing with your ignition...

 

ok here's a pic.

red wire - directly to battery.
Yellow wire - Switched 12+ (ignition on)

since i removed my rat's nest, there were 4 leftover connectors from the solenoids. i chose to tap into the yellow one, since it had a 12v source while ignition on.

hope this helps

 

The fan is from a 1st gen MR2, the one with the supercharger, not the newer turbo model. The car kind of looks like a wedge on wheels, know what I mean? It's only a four banger, but since it has a small radiator/supercharger/midengine layout, I figured it would need awesome cooling. Figured it was worth a shot anyway. And the fans really kick out the airflow...

Here's another pic I found, and doctored up a bit to show the mounting of it.

1. This is the little "hook" on the top of the fan shroud, which hangs nicely on the lip of the radiator.

2. This is the mounting bolt where I drilled a hole through the shroud, and used the original shroud mounting bolt/hole to finish the attachment.

Total time to mount it was like five minutes. Not too shabby...

The power runs from the ignition coil to the fan control, then to the fan. The fan only runs when the ignition is on, and only when the temp is high enough to activate it. I'm very happy with this setup. I'm actually only using one of the fans right now with my 2nd gen radiator until I figure out how to mount it. The new radiator is a bit too wide to use the same strategy, so I'll have to fab something up I guess. Not in too much of a hurry though, since it still runs very cool with just the one fan.

 

thanks for the pix. I will try that fan as with the Fiero, I cant use the A/C pulley.

 

Sorry about that. The wiring diagram is acurate. I didn't check the link and assumed it included this:

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/efanmyth.htm

 

On second thought, it seem to me that there isnt enough space either for 13-B motors w/ A/C

 

how much larger is the 13b than the 12a?

with the 13b, isn't the radiator moved further forward than those equipped with a 12a?

with the mr2 fans, and a 12a, there is close to 2 inches between the fan and the A/C pulley.

 

What's wrong with the myth page? Keeping in mind that I am aware the description of the stock fan clutch is not accurate.

 

Hey Brak, I wired my fan up to the emissions system like you did and the car still runs on for about 2-3 seconds. Could it be a bad ground? I don't know why it's doing it. Thanks for your help. Does anybody know?

 

Nope. Engine moves closer to the radiator since a 13-B is longer

 

What brand of e-fan is yours??? It is a nice one...

 

I think his is a Ford Taurus stock e-fan

 

Unplug your fan and see if it still does it. Seems weird that the fan would be causing it to run on that long....

 

I'll try that tommorrow Kentetsu, thanks. BTW the fan is made by a company called hayden, I got it from autozone. It was a little on the expensive side, but it pulls alot of air.

 

I agree with Kentetsu.

That's odd

 

Well, I tried it with the fan not connected and with it connected. The only time it runs on is when I turn off the car while the fan is running. If I turn off the car when the fan is off, but still connected it doesn't do it.

 

The freewheeling fan is sending enough "back emf" into the coil to allow the ignition to fire until the fan rpm has dropped to where the power output will no longer fire the ignition.
Take the switched 12 v from somewhere other than the coil.

 

As long as your power to the fans is fused, you should be able to run it right off the battery pos.... Or you can just live with it.

 

I tried wiring it to the vacuum solenoid that controls the shutter valve(which I have already taken out) and it still did it. I don't really care about it running on, just as long as I'm not screwing anything up and yes I do have a 20 amp fuse on it. So i guess I'll just live with it.

 

I would be wondering whether the stock wiring for that little sensor is heavy enough to handle that kind of load.....

I ran 10 gauge wire straight to the ignition coil positive (that's plenty heavy for stock wiring) so that it doesn't run full time, only when the car is running... Oh, and I used a 30 amp fuse, these fans can really suck the current.

 

To accomodate my E-Fan, I finally upgraded my stock 55 amp alternator with an '89 FC alt; 80 amp I believe. It made a huge difference for my system. It charges 13+ volts as necessary while the Black Magic E-fan, headlights, and vent fan is on. (Oh yes, I also replaced my battery ground wire, too.)