I'm putting back together a 1982 rx-7. It hasn't run in about a year so I'm trying to get it together to run the engine and test the seals. My problem is that whenever I put my key in the ignition and turn to on. The fuel pump poors fuel into the two butter-fly valves that don't move when I press the gas (sorry for bad description pics below). I think it must be something with my piping, but I can't find a good picture in the Haynes Manuel to find out. Also, I have a wire going from the positive termnal to my distributor, the picture is down below where does this wire ground onto? All the pictures are down below. Any help is much apreciated. Thankyou.

 

I don't see the wire on the air vent solenoid (under the fuel inlet on the carb) connected. That will make it flood. Of course, the air vent solenoid may have been disabled. That's about the only choice when they go bad as you can't buy a new one...

The needle valves may also be stuck. Whack the float bowls with something (screwdriver handle) and see if that will break them loose.

- David

 

Looks to me like this wire goes to the main terminal on the alternator.

 

sounds more like the carb needs to be rebuilt if one sits for long periods of time (1 year) or so then they"ll have fuel turn into shelac which is fuel drying up this in turn sticks the floats in an open position causing the carb to over fill which is causing it to flood unless the fuel pump is pushing some unheard of amount of pressure which im assuming is a stock pump Then the only way a pump can bypass the floats on a stock carb is for it to push so much pressure that it will actually open the needle and seat from pressure alone rebuld kits arent that expensive if you have the know how to do it yourself its relitively cheap even if you have to take it to a mechanic it cant be more than a 150 bucks or you can locate one for 350 or more hope this helps keep us posted

 

Thanks alot guys, luckily I bought this car as a learning experience so it will be a good project to rebuild my carb and learn a whole lot. That little wire sparks whenver I touch the alternator I would put it there but it seems like it might hot wire the battery.

 

when the carb fills with gas it usually indicates the floats are stuck. this happens from sitting and the gas around the float edges turns into a varnish, causing the floats to stick in whatever position they're in, usually the down position, thus allowing gas to keep pouring in the float chambers and overflowing the carb. rebuild the carb.

 

the white/red wire should go to your alternator. the other wire with the rubber hood should go to the fusible link junction box. would you like me to post a pic?

 

Also, Do you guys know where I can get a carb rebuild kit? Couldn't find one.

 

www.blackdragonauto.com
1888-789-3746
part# 56-810
-$19.95

 

I buy my carb kits at AutoZone. Oddly enough, they do have a good one. You will have a hard time getting the engine to run with all the vacuum hoses disconnected, particularly the larger one that goes to the bottom of the air cleaner. That one must be plugged. I also see the heater hose is missing. Do not run a rotary without or even low on coolant. Your learning experince will soon include an engine R&R and rebuild if you do.

Technically, it's not the floats that stick, it's the needles that do and cause the floats to not move. The needles are located directly below the banjo bolts at the fuel line inlets. Tapping these with the butt of a screw driver sometimes will lossen them. 2 most common causes of top flooding is sticking needles from varnish or the solenoid is not plugged in.

In my sig line is a link to the FSMs and carb manual. Download both and start reading before you take things apart. Take pics before you remove anything. It does look like someone attempted to work on the engine before. Being new to rotarys and stuck with someone else cobbled work can be daunting. Take your time and learn everything you can first. Good luck.
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My nikki was flooding so bad that it was filling up and pouring out of the top of the carb! A rebuild probably would have fixed it, but why not upgrade to a weber?

 

Surprisingly banging it with a malot fixed it, I have coolant in the car, the heater hose is the one connected to the bottom radiator, but where does it go? I thought they meant heater, like heater for the inside of the car, so I plugged it. Also, on spark when they mean L1 and L2, on the distributor. They mean rotor 1 the one closest to the front of the car or farthest? Thanks

 

Yah could you post up a pic it would help out alot, thanks.

 

L 1 is leading one, one being the front rotor housing towards the Rad. I believe it is leading plugs on bottom and trailing plugs on top. DO NOT MIX THEM UP it will run funny. Plus if the needles stick now then a rebuild will be needed soon. Or you can just tap it until the nikki gums up

I agree with what was posted... Upgrade to a weber!

 

ok, here are the pics of the wiring. they are from my 85 S. what may look different is the DLIDFIS using a second gen coil and the use of the FC fuse block. dont let those throw you off.

 

I have a 1982 rx-7 that I am putting back together. I didn't take anything apart it all came like this, and that’s why I'm asking all these questions. Ok I posted a bunch of pics, we'll call pic 1 the 1st one on the left.

On pic 1 where does the wire from my injector coils go to there’s no female connector near it?

On pic 2 where does the big black wire go to there’s no connector near it?

On pic 3 this wire is coming from the positive terminal of the battery, I've been told that it goes to a fusible link, but where I can't find it?

On pic 4 where does the white connector and connector with the blue tape go to, it’s in the back drivers side of the engine compartment?

On pic 5, do the two white connectors connect together and where does the big black connector connect to, this is in the front passenger side?

On pic 6 what goes where those two bolts are and where does the pipe on that pic go, this is at the back passenger side of the engine right between the transmission and the engine?

Another question where does the heater hose go from the radiator?

Thanks a lot anything will help get this car back on the road.

 

Here are the rest of the pics

 

Pic 2 is for the back of your headlight.

 

I can't tell by looking at the pics, but I'm in Austin as well, between looking at my car and the FSM we should be able to figure it out. What side of town do you live?

 

In your second post, what is the first picture of?

 

The first pic on second post is behind the engine on the passenger side, sorry bad pics. Hey that would be great if you could help me out, I live in North Austin near 50th street and the UT Intramural fields. I'm rebuilding the carb right now, so its not near running order, but I should be done with the carb by the end of the weekend, hopefully.

 

Alright,here we go.....

Pic 1.
Looks like all the important ignition coil connections are intact.That extra pigtail could be for a test connector or some other option/function your car doesnt have.I wouldnt worry,the 1st gen ignition system is simple and standalone even on the fuel injected GSL-SE.Your power and signal wires are all there and thats whats important.

Pic 2.
Looks like a headlight connector.Goes to the back of the sealed beam headlight bulb.

Pic 3.
That big wire goes to the fusible links that are mounted on the strut tower nearby.The box is brown and you can see it in pic 4.....its got the little braided loop wires poking out on the backside.The fusible links provide all the power to the car and are basically an old style of fuse,just without the plastic box and little plastic fuses.One side of the fusible link block should have a threaded hole to bolt that cables ring terminal to.

Pic 4.
Probably nothing to worry about.One might have gone to the hot start assist controller.There are lots of redundant and/or obsolete items under the hood of our cars and there also tends to be lots of unused plugs that go nowhere.It looks like all the main relays and other stuff is hooked up already......see the fusible links on the left side of the pic?

Pic 5.
Black plug looks like the other headlight connector.The white plugs MIGHT go together,but Ive no idea what they would power either.There isnt really anything in that corner of the engine bay on the carbureted cars.If your front right marker light, turnsignal and headlight/retractor all work fine,then just leave those white plugs alone.

Pic 6.
The two bolts hold on a tube that normally goes to the cat converter down on the exhaust system.Its a smog control device and its very important if you have to smog the car.Youll need the flange,pipe and check valve that bolt on there if you need the car to be legal.If not,you can buy or make a block off plate to put there,and strip off all the smog gear.
The little pipe that comes off the engine below that is the vacuum port for the brake booster.It connects to a large metal pipe that runs along the firewall to the drivers side,where the big brake booster and check valve are.Just use a piece of rubber hose to connect that nipple to the long firewall mounted pipe.

Final pic.
Thats the subzero starting assist bottle and connector.Its a retarded system that almost never works,and even Mazda removed/deleted them on all rotaries after about 87. Just chuck the entire bottle and plumbing,unless you live in Alaska and have a wornout,hard starting engine......dont throw out the big black round thing near the clear bottle,thats your cruise control actuator.

The heater hose at the lower radiator connection goes along the frame rail up to the passenger side heater nipple on the firewall.There should be a long metal pipe that bolts to the inner fender of the car to connect the heater core and the radiator.Then,there are short rubber hoses used to make the connection.The other heater core nipple, closer to the drivers side, goes to the connection on the engine, below the oil filter......or to the beehive oil cooler under the oil filter if you have that style of cooler.(hopefully not)

 

The last plug might go to the washer fluid bottle that is missing. The washer fluid bottle attaches to the bracket next to the subzero bottle.

 

Your right.......I havent had one in my car for 10 years,so I forgot about the washer bottle.

 

Update: I think everything is hooked up all correctly, but not positive. The car cranks and starts, but I don't know if it sounds right, it sounds like crap. Thanks for everyones help

The two guys from Austin. It would be really helpful if any of you guys would be willing to come over and help me make sure everything is alright and it sounds ok . I'm free all day tom. and Ill be gone on tues. till sat. I can also come over there and take some pictures. Whatever works for you guys, just PM me Thanks.