Look past all the rust. We've been getting a whole bunch of rain and they've been exposed to it for about 2 months now. These rotors have been on the car for about 4 years...three of those years in continuous daily driver duty. They are absolute proof that if you have an aged, skilled machinist that knows his metallurgy do the cross-drill by a pattern you give him, you will not have the so-called cracks or warping problems wrongly attributed to drilled discs. And I did a lot heavy braking with these suckers...

 

nice job!!!

 

Nice, but I can't see how you'd ever need those... Hawks with stock rotors are way more than enough for street/autocross.

 

I ran professionally CNC machined crossdrilled and slotted brembo rotors for years. My impressions are:

1. The fresh Valvoline brake fluid flush, braided lines, rotors, and the Frictiontech pads did stop the car much better than stock. It did take two stops for them to warm up. Stockers were ready to go at first stop.

2. The rotors were overkill for the street. I did not need the cooling that the cross drilling offered. Pads don't 'gas' like they used to , so I didn't need the slotting for that. But the slotting is useful for brushing worn pad material out of the way, and keeping the pads clean and fresh.

3. You'd be better off just getting some nice new rotors and some good pads. Hawk Performance Plus or Blacks come to mind. I use Porterfield R4S on my V6 Isuzu Amigo and those pads are THE BOMB. Stop great, great pedal modulation, do dust more than stock, but the dust is non corrosive and just wipes off my wheels. And these pads last.

4. To get the most out of cross drilling you need to champfer the holes on the outer surfaces of the rotor.

5. The rotors did not crack even with Hawk Blues punishing them on the track, UNTIL I had to turn the rotors. Then hair cracks formed all around the holes and then some. Trash.

-bp-