Not to be rude but he asked how to eliminate snap oversteer and I answered his question. From what I've DONE (not just researched) with the rear suspension of the 1st gen ditching the rear bar is the first step and reduces twitchiness. The stock watts is designed all wrong, when I replaced that with a panhard the snap oversteer was greatly reduced. The rear was much more *controllable* on the auto-x and road course. Lower roll center. I could get on the gas earlier when exiting a turn. You don't have to do a tri-link (and I HAVE), but it also helps fix the rear end geometry. There's some other tricks too.

Keeping the rear bar at that point is generally only done with auto-x where you need to make tight turns and dialing in some oversteer helps get the back end around the cones. Keeping it is taking a step backwards in eliminating rear suspension bind as it is nothing more than an adjustable torsion bar. As for if it is needed for tire smoking counter steering wave your hand out the window and smile at the chicks entertainment who knows. You would be able to pitch the back end out quicker and easier with stock rear suspension, due to it's design flaws and poor geometry, but once that puppy binds you're along for the ride.

Spring rates are the #1 thing to tune with on the rear suspension. Bars are a distant 2nd if used at all.

I used to use the Suspension Techniques front and rear bars and poly links. Loved them on the street. Really reduced lean. Took it out to Willow Springs Raceway and the back end kept snapping around; instructor said to take it easy, real twitchy. Once you take a car to the limit you want it to be *controllable*, that's the key.

i agree the panhard setup helps out a lot reducing snap oversteer. these cars are proned to it very heavily and can be dangerous to control over high speeds. even i spun out uncontrallably, even though i knew i WAS in control. i must admit, suspension design for these cars are not the greatest out there, but that's could be an objective opinion to some of you.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...nofpics859.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...nofpics873.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...nofpics877.jpg

drift day CA Speedway '05.

dood your car = teh secks. do you have any more pictars? or maybe even action shots?

ok i thought that was oversteer, i had some people tell me it wasnt so im glad that is cleared up. and if i turn on the AC, it kills my power and i cna drive in the rain no problems with them. i usually will drive my honda though if it rains and its not past like 11:30 or 12 for safety reasons.

we can go on on and about who knows more, but why? He asked about drifting setups not auto-x, or road race. I never chime in on either setup question, only drift. Thats all I know thats all Ive spent my every last penny on, I gave a honest awnser about how it effected my car during a drift. You gave awnser to how it effected your car during a road race/auto-x. Not quite the same. You dont need to prove how smart you are to me, it affects my life in no manor, i would like to help other 1st gen guys get started w/ out spending $$$ to slide. So please lets not take this in to i know more than you because i say so type of thread... I have proven my ability to setup a 1st gen to drift at or close to the top level w/ min. $$$. So lets stay on drift and not other forms of racing.

sure as hell proved to me you can drift hahaha. i watched a few more vids on youtube, and i love that roll cage X design for the door to under the dash. i may have to steal it for my FC =). i just have to find someone local to do a custom one.

i don't think my car is teh secks, but thanks for the compliment :)

It is on the exit of the corner as im trying to set up for the next one. It slides nicely through the corner, then you catch it and go back the other way. But on the next slide it just goes into donuts pretty much everytime. Maybe im just not quick enough on the wheel? Maybe I just need more practice.

By the way I have no rear swaybar at all because I have a brace welded to the back of my diff. The swaybar wont fit anymore.

My mate had the same problem with his s13. He could kick it out and catch it, but at the end of the drift when he tried to grip up, the car would violently snap the other way and end up spinning. Because of this he was unable to link any corners. The problem is unfortunatly throttle control and steering work. Just have to keep practicing untill you get the feel of it.
You're going from lock on one direction to lock on the other direction so thats a fair few turns of the wheel there, find a way to turn the wheel quicker. Set your hands up throughout the end of the last corner so that you can turn the wheel much faster.

Also, you wouldn't happen to live in Wantirna South would you?

Thanks mate. I guess it just means practice, practice and more practice.



Yeah I live near there. Have you seen my car out and about?

Blue series one near where they are building the freeway?
See your car all the time coz my mate lives on the corner of that street. Used to have a white Vp comodore there with calais intl's but got nicked. If you see a black S1 give us a wave :D

oh, gotcha.

I used to have a problem with this also, and how I fixed it (kind of) was to get in a parking lot and start driving straight. And then steer right then left, right, left. Once you get hard enough with it the end will start to slide back and forth, inline drifting I guess, just keep practicing that, I'll allow you to get the hang of the back end transitioning from one side to the other. Just keep adding more and more angle or hold the transitions longer.

Or this is what I learned from doing that. When I am at the exit of the 1st corner I go to straighten out like normal, and then when I get right at the point where I am almost straight again I give the steering wheel a little flick. Literally it feels like just a 1" movement, into the next corner and then just start countersteering from there.

So the short answer would be seat time.

i had that problem the other night around an S curve. got the first part fine, took a second to break traction the other direction and then spun at the end of the drift.

Thanks for the tips guys.


Intense_7 nah thats not me. I have a white series 3 with a 12a turbo, T66 etc, etc...

The key to transitional drifts aside from driving skill, also relies ALOT on how stiff your suspension is, how much steering angle you have, and how much rear grip you have. If you have too much body roll in your suspension setup, or too soft of springs, you're going to get snap-back, and the momentum from this violent pull will cause your car to go ass end around. If you don't have enough steering angle to compensate for how sideways your ass gets in a transitional slide, you're also going to go ass end around. Or if your tires are too destroyed, or just plain shitty, they aren't going to have enough traction to control the momentum from the transition when you try to flick it back. Other than that, like the other guys said it's all relative to how hard you throw it, throttle control, and the intensity/timing of your steering.

that body roll is a true killer of drifts

i used eibach springs for a while drifting, with stock sway bars, and the shitty cp rack w/ 32 degrees of steering(i can pull out an old vid if you need proof).
But onto spring rates going stiffer in the rear is not for begainers, this will make your weight transfer really fast, so need alot more skill. Softer rates slows down the transition.
I've moved on to little higher rates in the rear for the sick transition look.
Like Ive said learn to walk before you try to run. Stay at it, have fun. I know it sounds simple but do figure 8's and large dougnuts.

i just wish that bent axle of mine would fix it self so i could practice what you preach(no i didnt bend it drifting, i ought it that way)

my RX-7 used to fix itsself all the time, i think its a program no one knows about, sadly it couldnt fix its own blown engine.