Door seal
Hi All,
So recently got our first good rain since I bought the car and noticed a little wetness in my car. The door seal isn't coming in complete contact with the frame. The seal looks good, no real warn parts. A friend suggested it's the hinges and I need to re-align the door. Wanted to see if this could be the issue or something else and if there are other options. I was thinking the previous owner replaced the seals and it could just be the wrong one for the door. Was also thinking of just getting the peel and stick foam seal stuff, but figured there was better options. Any advice greatly appreciated.
I'm also attaching a photo, so you can see the gap I'm referring to. The picture was taken from the drivers seat looking back.
This is on a '84 GS. Just in case it matters.
Cheers
So recently got our first good rain since I bought the car and noticed a little wetness in my car. The door seal isn't coming in complete contact with the frame. The seal looks good, no real warn parts. A friend suggested it's the hinges and I need to re-align the door. Wanted to see if this could be the issue or something else and if there are other options. I was thinking the previous owner replaced the seals and it could just be the wrong one for the door. Was also thinking of just getting the peel and stick foam seal stuff, but figured there was better options. Any advice greatly appreciated.
I'm also attaching a photo, so you can see the gap I'm referring to. The picture was taken from the drivers seat looking back.
This is on a '84 GS. Just in case it matters.
Cheers
Last edited by lightspd; Mar 10, 2011 at 10:57 AM. Reason: put in car info
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
The lock striker is also adjustable; the metal loop that the door latch grabs. It floats a considerable amount, and by adjusting it inward slightly you can cause the doors to close more tightly.
Check the body lines outside the door. If they look right all the way around, ex: from top to bottom in the rear where door meets quarter, and front where door meets fender... If anything looks out of wack somethings might not be aligned right. Check to see that the door closes nice and easily or do you have to give it extra effort to close...?? The upper part of the door frame that holds the window could be out of wack and the door still be well aligned. There's ALOT of things that can be adjusted to get a better fit.
Ask around see if you know anyone with bodywork experience to get it back in wack if it's out.
I'd do it for a six pack of Hiney's if you were local.
Ask around see if you know anyone with bodywork experience to get it back in wack if it's out.
I'd do it for a six pack of Hiney's if you were local.
To check the seal, take a dollar bill and close it in the door. If it pulls out easily, the seal isn't tight. Check for tightness all around the window frame. Often the window frame gets bent outward over time. If that's the case, roll the window down, place the heel of your weaker hand where where the frame meets the door, then strike the top corner of the frame with the heel of your power hand.
Before any adjustments are made, check the gap widths joints planes around entire door.
Before any adjustments are made, check the gap widths joints planes around entire door.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,796
Likes: 3,210
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
To check the seal, take a dollar bill and close it in the door. If it pulls out easily, the seal isn't tight. Check for tightness all around the window frame. Often the window frame gets bent outward over time. If that's the case, roll the window down, place the heel of your weaker hand where where the frame meets the door, then strike the top corner of the frame with the heel of your power hand.
Before any adjustments are made, check the gap widths joints planes around entire door.
Before any adjustments are made, check the gap widths joints planes around entire door.
Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably try adjusting the door latch first and then bending the top part as suggested. Currently the door closes no problem and the only spot that the seal doesn't make good contact is the back part or right side top window part if your facing the car.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,796
Likes: 3,210
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably try adjusting the door latch first and then bending the top part as suggested. Currently the door closes no problem and the only spot that the seal doesn't make good contact is the back part or right side top window part if your facing the car.
oh and you just want to bend it enough so the gap is even, too much and the seal will fold over at the top front corner
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If the gaps around the main body of the door and the unibody are even and flush, leave the catches alone. Adjusting them can cause more problems than it will solve. Look closely where the window frame attaches to the top of the door. If you find any cracks in the paint, the frame is tweaked. It takes little force for the window frames to get tweaked. Rarely are the carches out of alignment.
I was looking at the door the other night, comparing the passenger door to the drivers and I noticed the driver door goes in about an inch if I push on it, while the passenger doesn't move at all. I'll try bending the window frame back first, per your instructions. I'll try it today at lunch and let you know how it goes. If it doesn't work then I'll try the latch. On a side thought could it be the latch mechanism in the door is some how bent out a bit? If that makes since.
Cheers.
Cheers.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
I'd say it's unlikely; the in-door latch mechanism doesn't have any space for play with regard to locking position. It could be malfunctioning, but I think bending it out of place would be pretty hard.
More likely the striker plate, IMO. Especially if you have an inch of in-out play when the door's closed.
More likely the striker plate, IMO. Especially if you have an inch of in-out play when the door's closed.
Well I was going to adjust the striker plate, but ran into a slight snag. Bottom screw came out fine, top screw stripped. So now I need to find a replacement screw and drill out this screw. Which shouldn't be too hard.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
FIY: The screws go into a floating plate inside the body; Don't take all three screws completely out or it may fall and you'll have to pull some insde trim to get it back.








