Arcolithe

Just curious if I am missing anything.

Using the 12A with an aftermarket carb
12a transmission and driveshaft.

I assume since the 13b was fuel injected, I'd need to make a firewall hole for the accelerator pedal to the carb, psteering should match up fine and AC works the same?

Anything I'm majorly overlooking?

12a engine should fit into 13b engine mount location? or needs fabrication?
12a transmission should match the 13b transmission mount?

rotaryboy23

iTrader: (1)

Use the search function. It's been covered. But my more immediate question is why are you taking a step backwards? The 12A won't bolt in. Go get an s4 or S5 engine, and use your existing efi and transmission for minimal headaches.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

sounds to me like you're over-complicating it.

1. the throttle cable already passes through the firewall. i honestly don't know if the cables themselves are different length, but even if they are, it should be just a matter of swapping one for the other.

2. unless you just want to change transmissions, the new 12A will bolt up to your existing transmission with no drama. obviously, everything after the tranny will be the same if you're not removing the tranny.

3. i think the bracket for the A/C and power steering should also bolt on the new engine the same. i can't swear to this because i've never had a power steering car, but i have worked on a few in the past. i'm sure someone else can confirm or correct me.

4. the only thing you may need to worry about is one of the engine mounts (passenger side, i think), and if you have both mounting brackets, then i don't think you'll have any issue. just use the other one if one gives you a problem.

5. you didn't mention it, but i assume you will be swapping for a more appropriate fuel pump, correct?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

1 cables are different. The GSL-SE is shorter.
2 correct
3 correct
4 The front mount bars are all the same. The GSL-SE moved the motor mounts forward by 20mm so the OP will need to come up with a 3/4" plate of aluminum and longer bolts to make a 12A fit.
5 Mallory 4309 fpr

Arcolithe

thanks, using the search function is a bit hard since it's 12a into a GSL-SE.

Just fyi, I only have the GSL-SE shell (and mounts) and swapping my 12a to upgrade from it's rust condition shell.

Best way to get the 3/4" plate of aluminum? I'm assuming this would mean I would have to practice welding before the swap can be done?
Got a holley FPR along with the holley blue fuel pump, so I should be good on that end I believe =)

Edit: reading up on https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...gsl-se-425992/

Is this true?

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i don't know, but i tend to agree. i remember some people bending and slotting the 12A mount brackets to mount 13Bs in their cars. also, RB cites differences between the 12A and SE cross-members as the reason the factory brackets don't get the job done. you're going the opposite way though, so i'm not sure what you'd need to do.

what i can say for sure is this. when i put the SE engine in my '84 (12A car from the factory), it had the OEM mount bracket and it did not "fit" my mounts. i had to MAKE IT FIT, but i was able to do it. i never touched the bracket itself, instead i tweaked the mount.

what i need to do is dig through my stuff and find my SE bracket, then lay it out next to the 12A and RB brackets and snap a couple photos.

i might be wrong, but i think what Jeff is saying is to space the bracket out with a 3/4-inch aluminum plate. no welding, just drilling and maybe some cutting/trimming.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The engine cradle is what is different. It runs from side rail to side rail. The easiest thing to do is to just replace the cross member is you have it.

If you don't have it, make a 20mm spacer that fits between the engine cross member and front cover to make up the difference.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Or make three 1/4" aluminum plates. Same thickness.