1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

DLIDFIS for my car.

Old 11-16-02, 01:10 AM
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DLIDFIS for my car.

I've got a TII Engine in my '82 RX7, and I'm wondering if it's possible to do Jeff20Bs ignition mod and also if it's actually worth it?

The car runs an electronic distributor.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Old 11-16-02, 01:40 AM
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If you're running a distributor, I don't see why not.

Is your ignition locked?
Old 11-16-02, 02:14 AM
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When you say locked, if you mean there is no vacuum advance or boost retard or anything like that, then yes it is locked.

I'm still new to ignitions and learning as much as possible, so keep the info coming fellas.

Thanks.
Old 11-16-02, 04:28 PM
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When someone says "locked" it means the centrifugal advance which ups the timing with rpm has been disabled as well. You should definately have that done (if you haven't already) as it will give you better driveability off boost.

And yep, there's no reason why you can't have DLIDFIS on your car.
Old 11-17-02, 02:18 PM
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Hmmm, is there an easy way to tell if the centrifugal advance has been locked?

Thanks for the replies, I think i'll start scavenging for some parts to make this happen.
Old 11-17-02, 03:40 PM
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Hook up a timing light and rev the engine by hand while watching the timing. A non-locked dizzy will advance the timing about 20* from idle to around 4000rpm. With a locked dizzy it won't advance at all.
Old 11-17-02, 04:20 PM
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How do you lock a dizzy? Do you hafta alter the dizzy beyond the point of no return (to stock)? And finally, is this a mod that's recommended for boosted rotaries only or can N/A engines see any benefits? Thanks
Old 11-17-02, 04:59 PM
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You have to tack weld it, and yest, only for boosted rotaries. Unless you can get a 12ATurbo ignition.
Old 11-17-02, 07:09 PM
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What would happen if your dizzy wasn't locked?Obviously your timing would advance as your revs climb, but what would the car do under these conditions?

Thanks.
Old 11-17-02, 08:48 PM
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Originally posted by S2-13BT
What would happen if your dizzy wasn't locked?Obviously your timing would advance as your revs climb, but what would the car do under these conditions?

Thanks.
ping... or whatever rotaries do under that condition.
Old 11-17-02, 09:10 PM
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Originally posted by S2-13BT
What would happen if your dizzy wasn't locked?Obviously your timing would advance as your revs climb, but what would the car do under these conditions?

Thanks.
It would advance, when it should actually retard. Perfect conditions for detonantion and "poof".
Old 11-17-02, 11:29 PM
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Seeing as how the guy has a TII motor, isn't DLIDFIS completely useless? Doesn't he already have direct fire, wasted spark ignition?

Matt
1979 SA22C
Old 11-17-02, 11:34 PM
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Originally posted by MosesX605
Seeing as how the guy has a TII motor, isn't DLIDFIS completely useless? Doesn't he already have direct fire, wasted spark ignition?

Matt
1979 SA22C
Not if he using a distributor.
Old 11-17-02, 11:42 PM
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Originally posted by Directfreak


Not if he using a distributor.
Bingo! I'm still using the S2 electronic distributor, cause I'm cheap. Well, actually I will upgrade eventually but this seems like a cool thing to try first. And cheaper than a Haltech.
Old 11-17-02, 11:42 PM
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So the 2nd Gens have what? Wasted spark but no direct fire?

Matt
1979 SA22C
Old 11-18-02, 12:38 AM
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Originally posted by MosesX605
So the 2nd Gens have what? Wasted spark but no direct fire?

Matt
1979 SA22C
No, you were right the first time. 2nd gens have direct fire on both leading and trailing with wasted spark on the leading only.

But, just because he has a T2 engine doesn't mean he's using the ignition. A conventional dizzy bolts straight in place of the T2's crank angle sensor.
Old 11-18-02, 12:48 AM
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Originally posted by S2-13BT
What would happen if your dizzy wasn't locked?Obviously your timing would advance as your revs climb, but what would the car do under these conditions?

Thanks.
It means your timing will be severely retarded at lower rpm so it doesn't exceed the maximum safe level when all the advance is in. Usually makes it a real pig to drive off boost.
Old 11-18-02, 08:25 AM
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Originally posted by Directfreak
You have to tack weld it, and yest, only for boosted rotaries. Unless you can get a 12ATurbo ignition.
Read this, N/A rotaries benefit from locked timing as well.
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/pultime.html
Old 11-18-02, 08:38 AM
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Originally posted by Rx7carl
Read this, N/A rotaries benefit from locked timing as well.
http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/pultime.html
Why All the Complexity?
The timing requirements of the engine vary, based on charge density, rpm, and..here's the biggy...emissions requirements! It is common to eliminate both advance mechanisms so that the engine will be at full advance at all times. This will surely keep you from passing emissions. The benefit is slightly better low speed response and gas mileage. Additionally, you will have a few less things that can fail, and setting the timing will be less of a hassle. It is manily for these reasons that race cars run "locked" timing, but the benefits in driveability are worthwhile as well. The one disadvantage is is that the idle will be slightly rougher, but with a good ignition system, this should not be a problem.
I disagree. In My personal opinion, you will have better drivability with a working advance. If the timing advances properly at the right RPM/Load, then why mess with it. If it is working corrrectly, you will make full power at the right advance. The FB distributors are very,very reliable, and there really isn't a need to disable the vacuum advance. He even stated it in his page, thay idle will be rougher as well if you lock the timing. Why do it, when you can have the best of both worlds?

Again - In My personal opinion, you only need to lock timing when you can't afford it to advance - such as boost applications.
Old 11-18-02, 09:35 AM
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Amen to that. Having gone through what timing does to my SA when it's even a little off, I wouldn't want it locked at a particular setting. Besides, the Yaw article doesn't make any sense. First he says that drivability is better, but then later he says the idle is worse. If you have a bad idle, that opens up all sorts of things like stumbling off idle, stalling out completely etc.

Matt
1979 SA22C
Old 11-18-02, 12:13 PM
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Originally posted by Directfreak


I disagree. In My personal opinion, you will have better drivability with a working advance. If the timing advances properly at the right RPM/Load, then why mess with it. If it is working corrrectly, you will make full power at the right advance. The FB distributors are very,very reliable, and there really isn't a need to disable the vacuum advance. He even stated it in his page, thay idle will be rougher as well if you lock the timing. Why do it, when you can have the best of both worlds?

Again - In My personal opinion, you only need to lock timing when you can't afford it to advance - such as boost applications.
I agree that its more a matter of opinion than hard facts. For instance, I had a bad vacuum bellows on my dizzy, so this solved that problem, no $$$$. And with the MSD I still have a rock solid idle. SO for me it makes sense, but as always YMMV right?
Old 11-18-02, 03:38 PM
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Bridge and peripheral ports benifit greatly from locked timing as well so it's not just for boosted engines. For my extend port I chose the middle ground by modifying the advance slot so it only advances about 10*. This really improved low rpm response.

As for tack welding the dizzy, it's easier just to remove the springs from the advance weights. That way they swing out to full advance as soon as the key is turned.


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