1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Detach Pitman arm from center link - help

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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 02:13 PM
  #1  
waynew1's Avatar
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Question Detach Pitman arm from center link - help

I've spent the afternoon trying to lift the Pitman arm out of where it attaches to the center link. (Note, not removing the Pitman arm from steering box).

After removing the crown nut, brother, this thing just won't budge! It didn't look like it should be that tight, with just the tapered shaft of the Pitman arm dropping into the receivng hole on the center link.

Anybody done this and have some thoughts/tips on getting this bugger free?

Thanks
Wayne
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 02:35 PM
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rotor vs. piston's Avatar
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From: Catonsville MD (baltimore suburb)
You for sure need a pikle fork, tie rod separator (looks like a small horse shoe with a long shaft on it to beat on). If you can find someone with an air powerd tie rod separator it will be much easier and faster.
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 02:41 PM
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rotor vs. piston's Avatar
Function > Form
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From: Catonsville MD (baltimore suburb)
BTW, you don't happen to have a Silver SE do you, is it on the road. Just asking, on the way back from lunch I saw a silver SE I've never seen before where I work.
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 08:29 PM
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Nope, not silver -- red. And laid up in the garage at the moment while I try and scare up a pickle fork I guess!
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Old Sep 4, 2003 | 09:01 PM
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I used a bearing puller. Damn near thought I broke the joint, but it just popped off so hard. It worked really well, you just have to give it some attitude!

Zac
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Old Sep 5, 2003 | 11:23 AM
  #6  
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Seperating that joint can be a real bitch.
I've had mixed results seperating joints using pickle forks, I've also frequently destroyed the rubber boots in the process. Not a fan of the pickle fork...
I bought a Craftsman 2-jaw puller and it works much better, or you could get the PROPER one from Mazda, which is probably the best bet, though I'm sure it isn't cheap. I believe Mazdatrix lists them on their website.
Anyway, good luck with whatever method you use.
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Old Sep 5, 2003 | 11:45 AM
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i hope im thinking of the same thing

what i was told to do with this is u can hit them on the side casting with a soft hamer which should brake the taper lock.
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Old Sep 5, 2003 | 12:41 PM
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Hmm.. last time, I just loosened the nut significantly so that if I damaged the threads from hitting them with a hammer, they would be cleaned up by removing the nut... anyway, I did that and hit it with a hammer a few times, and it worked. Suggest soaking it in penetrating oil first... worked for me.
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Old Sep 6, 2003 | 02:58 AM
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i didnt mean to hit the nut with the hammer. u hit the side of the other part it locks into the.. the casted bit..
(just clearing up any misunderstandings.)
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