1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

damit, damit, son of a #*@%*

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Old 08-28-02, 10:39 AM
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damit, damit, son of a #*@%*

well i have been down from having my arm repaired,http://www.emedx.com/emedx/diagnosis...al_outline.htm , but have been able to at least go out and crank MAX every few days, well today i wanted to take her around the block and my damm clutch is froze up, took off the cap and my fluid has what appears to be rust in it,,,now i will have to remove the slave to see whats rusted,,,,,well just cranking her wasn't enough, needed to be driven too i guess, oh well,,,,when i get my cast off in a few weeks and finish arm theropy i may be able to hold a ratchett and fix er up...
Old 08-28-02, 12:53 PM
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Dude, that sux! A malfunctioning clutch can really be a drag.....
Old 08-28-02, 01:17 PM
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I just had to rebuild my slave cylinder. It only takes about an hour even if you're slow, like me , and that includes the run to get parts. The whole kit (piston, seal, spring, and boot) only cost $10. It's amazing to have the feel of a brand new clutch in the old beast.

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Old 08-28-02, 01:38 PM
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thanks guys, only problem is, i only have one good arm, no biggie, just had to vent, A/Z has the slave for 19 bucks and the kit for 13, think i'll go with the whole thing....
Old 08-28-02, 01:42 PM
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my clutch hyudralics went out a few days ago.

I cleaned a good inch of thick soupy black **** out of the reseviour. and the slave was fucked.

It takes skill to drive a 20 year old car 20 miles without disengaging the clutch. Thank god my mom taught me clutchless shifting (good skill to have)
Old 08-28-02, 01:44 PM
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If you've got enough room to get the hose off while the cylinder is still attached to the tranny, you could probably do the whole thing one handed if you're replacing the entire cylinder. There's just the hose, and the two bolts that hold the cylinder to the tranny. If you can't get the hose off before taking the cylinder off the tranny, then you'll need two hands. One to hold the cylinder as best you can, and one the loosen the hose. But you're going to need help to flush & refill the system when you get all done.

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Old 08-28-02, 01:50 PM
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may give it a try, just how does rust get in this part?, i had just rebuilt it a year ago....



/
Old 08-28-02, 01:54 PM
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I would imagine that if you get any air in the system for an extended period of time it could begin to draw enough moisture out of the fliud to start rusting. But that's just an uneducated guess.

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Old 08-28-02, 02:09 PM
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wonder if putting a rubber cap on the bleeder screw might help too...
Old 08-28-02, 09:01 PM
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Driven a turbo FB lately?

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I got a slave from an 85. Came off my car, it was replaced about 3 ,000 miles ago, so its still pretty new...

If you want it send me best offer
Old 08-28-02, 09:11 PM
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Driven a turbo FB lately?

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Originally posted by DONNA
wonder if putting a rubber cap on the bleeder screw might help too...
Only thing that will do is keep from getting dirt in the opening...
Old 08-29-02, 01:24 PM
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with all your encouragement, i did the swap this morning, took about two hours and bleeding was the easiest part, just pumped with my right foot standing out of the car and used a long extension socket on the bleed screw,, took her for a short spin, had almost forgoten the rx feeling u get when your behind the wheel...and was able to shift ok even with a cast on my arm thats from my knuckels to my shoulder (dont tell my ortho doctor, he would have a cow)........
Old 08-29-02, 02:20 PM
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Well congrats!! I didn't think about a long extension for the socket 'cause I don't have one myself. I just had to use a long handled ice scraper on the pedal instead.

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