couple more questions
12-11-01, 12:16 AM
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couple more questions
Hey, for those of you didn't read my first post (new owner) I just bought a 83 GSL up here in Colorado, and have been having trouble passing emmissions. (high HC)
Anyway, I figure I'm gonna have to throw much more money at this problem than I was previously prepared too. I'm gonna list my symptoms and hope that some of you guys can help me figure out what too do.
My car likes too stall.... often. When I let go of the gas and put in the clutch or shift the neutral, the car seems too just die. I've adjusted the timing and top idle screw a bit, and it works for awhile, but seems too slip back too it's old settings or something.
when I give it gas in the cold my rpm's drop before going back up. I'm not sure what's causing this, but would very much like too find out.
I can't pass emissions I've replaced the dizzy, air filter, did the ATF treatment, replaced the plugs, and fuel filter, and managed to bring my CO levels down to .5% but my HC's went up to 2200, but I do not have smog equipment at my house, so tuning it according to the Haynes manual isn't exactly possible for me. My HC's go through the roof when gas is applied, and all the guys at the smog testing place feel bad for me (They got too watch me re-time it too hold an idle in the parking lott.)
My acceleration surges when light gas is applied, kinda like on/off/on/off with heavy gas pedal it revs up fine, but like gas and it surges.
Basically I'm thinking the surging and stalling means I need to clean out the carb, and mess with the timing and idle/mixture screws for a long time.
I'm also starting too think, that the high HC is a bad cat.
I, however, am a college student with a crappy job. Buying a new cat right now is something I would very much like too avoid if possible. I would very greatly appreciate any information on timing and adjusting the fuel mixture and idle in higher climate and cold weather (colorado).
I would also greatly appreciate if someone could help me find what these symptoms relate too. I have no idea what all the emmission stuff does, and have not checked the shutter valve, or ACV. Could my carb just be dirty/need to be rebuilt? I'm currently running some carb cleaner through my gas, but it doesn't seem too be doing much. Could it a vacuum leak?
Basicaly I'm new as heck too cars, and really anxious too learn and pass emissions so I can return the plates to the previous owner. I will be having much more time too work on it (last week in this semester) soon, but I would like too find out what I have too plop money down for asap.
Anyway, I figure I'm gonna have to throw much more money at this problem than I was previously prepared too. I'm gonna list my symptoms and hope that some of you guys can help me figure out what too do.
My car likes too stall.... often. When I let go of the gas and put in the clutch or shift the neutral, the car seems too just die. I've adjusted the timing and top idle screw a bit, and it works for awhile, but seems too slip back too it's old settings or something.
when I give it gas in the cold my rpm's drop before going back up. I'm not sure what's causing this, but would very much like too find out.
I can't pass emissions I've replaced the dizzy, air filter, did the ATF treatment, replaced the plugs, and fuel filter, and managed to bring my CO levels down to .5% but my HC's went up to 2200, but I do not have smog equipment at my house, so tuning it according to the Haynes manual isn't exactly possible for me. My HC's go through the roof when gas is applied, and all the guys at the smog testing place feel bad for me (They got too watch me re-time it too hold an idle in the parking lott.)
My acceleration surges when light gas is applied, kinda like on/off/on/off with heavy gas pedal it revs up fine, but like gas and it surges.
Basically I'm thinking the surging and stalling means I need to clean out the carb, and mess with the timing and idle/mixture screws for a long time.
I'm also starting too think, that the high HC is a bad cat.
I, however, am a college student with a crappy job. Buying a new cat right now is something I would very much like too avoid if possible. I would very greatly appreciate any information on timing and adjusting the fuel mixture and idle in higher climate and cold weather (colorado).
I would also greatly appreciate if someone could help me find what these symptoms relate too. I have no idea what all the emmission stuff does, and have not checked the shutter valve, or ACV. Could my carb just be dirty/need to be rebuilt? I'm currently running some carb cleaner through my gas, but it doesn't seem too be doing much. Could it a vacuum leak?
Basicaly I'm new as heck too cars, and really anxious too learn and pass emissions so I can return the plates to the previous owner. I will be having much more time too work on it (last week in this semester) soon, but I would like too find out what I have too plop money down for asap.
12-11-01, 01:48 AM
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Right near Malloy
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See if that tube is sucking air at idle... It shouldn't.
Normally accompanied by a rough idle and a sucking or honking noise. Kinda like a goose baing sucked into a shop vac during a tornado. (That description is getting old.
) Plug the hose that this pipe in the air cleaner connects to.
Adjust your mixture by doing the following proceedure as is sounds as if you're running rich...
This is the proceedure, condensed from the 1985 Factory manual. (Not sure if it'll work on the 83, but it should be similar.)
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature before starting this proceedure.
1.) Adjust Idle to 800 RPM in neutral. (900 for Automatic Transmission) using Idle air screw. (It's towards the back of the carb on the driver's side, unlike what the Haynes shows as two screws, one on top of the other.)
2.) Use the mixture screw (Towards the middle of the carb on the driver's side. Near where the Haynes manual shows two screws.) And turn it so that you have the highest idle speed you can obtain by simply turning that screw.)
3.) Reset the idle speed to 800 RPM (900 for Automatic) by using the idle air screw as in step 1.
4.) Repeat 2-3 as needed till you can get no higher than 800 RPM (Again. 900 for Auto)
5.) Tighten the mixture screw so that the idle moves down to 750 RPM (850 for Automatic.) This sets the mix to slightly rich which is what you want.
6.) If you have an automatic transmission. Set it to "D" and hold the brake noting that the idle speed is about 750 RPM.
7.) Test drive and see that everything is running as it should be.
The Haynes manual requires that you have an exhaust gas analyzer to set the mixture.
Emissions inspections should be made with the engine at normal operating temperature.
Also, I'd recheck your timing after you do all this and probalby follow everyone's suggestions of setting the timing with the engine at 4000 RPM.
Normally accompanied by a rough idle and a sucking or honking noise. Kinda like a goose baing sucked into a shop vac during a tornado. (That description is getting old.
) Plug the hose that this pipe in the air cleaner connects to.Adjust your mixture by doing the following proceedure as is sounds as if you're running rich...
This is the proceedure, condensed from the 1985 Factory manual. (Not sure if it'll work on the 83, but it should be similar.)
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature before starting this proceedure.
1.) Adjust Idle to 800 RPM in neutral. (900 for Automatic Transmission) using Idle air screw. (It's towards the back of the carb on the driver's side, unlike what the Haynes shows as two screws, one on top of the other.)
2.) Use the mixture screw (Towards the middle of the carb on the driver's side. Near where the Haynes manual shows two screws.) And turn it so that you have the highest idle speed you can obtain by simply turning that screw.)
3.) Reset the idle speed to 800 RPM (900 for Automatic) by using the idle air screw as in step 1.
4.) Repeat 2-3 as needed till you can get no higher than 800 RPM (Again. 900 for Auto)
5.) Tighten the mixture screw so that the idle moves down to 750 RPM (850 for Automatic.) This sets the mix to slightly rich which is what you want.
6.) If you have an automatic transmission. Set it to "D" and hold the brake noting that the idle speed is about 750 RPM.
7.) Test drive and see that everything is running as it should be.
The Haynes manual requires that you have an exhaust gas analyzer to set the mixture.
Emissions inspections should be made with the engine at normal operating temperature.
Also, I'd recheck your timing after you do all this and probalby follow everyone's suggestions of setting the timing with the engine at 4000 RPM.
12-11-01, 04:16 PM
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The carb used in the Haynes manual is a '79 or '80. My carb looks exactly like it. Has anyone else cracked plugs running the Yaw timing settings? We've been warned a couple of times they may be dangerous but was that person setting the 24 deg adv at 4000 RPM or just using poorly built plugs? Inquiring minds NEED to know....
Who the heck is responsible for that shutter port shot? It's getting more mileage than...well,y'all get the point :p
Who the heck is responsible for that shutter port shot? It's getting more mileage than...well,y'all get the point :p
12-11-01, 08:44 PM
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Similar problem to mine. Was gonna rebuild the carb but after I pulled it, one of the hoses on the plastic base was completely blocked.
But I have no idea if that did it - haven't put the carb back on, going weber now.
Can you idle once the car is REALLY warmed up? When the car is cold/moderate, unless gas is given or choked, it won't idle on its own.
But I have no idea if that did it - haven't put the carb back on, going weber now.
Can you idle once the car is REALLY warmed up? When the car is cold/moderate, unless gas is given or choked, it won't idle on its own.
12-11-01, 09:15 PM
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well if you want look under the area section of the forum for the Intermountain RX-7 club. they can give you some GOOD shops to help. they are based in denver.
David... ex imrx7 president
David... ex imrx7 president
12-11-01, 10:21 PM
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Well, the no-idle and power surging come together and go together. One day the car will be happy as hell. The next it doesn't want to stay alive. I have no idea why some days it's great and others it's not so great. I love the car and really want to learn more.
So far I'm gonna try and clean the living crud outta the carb and check every hose and cable I can see, adjust the idle and fuel screws on the carb, and retime it. Hopefully I can get this done within 2 days, but I'm gonna take my time and be very thorough.
I really don't have the money or time to take my car too a shop right now, as convienient as that would be. I need just about every buck I can get, and paying for labor is something I would like too avoid more than buying a new exhaust.
P.S. Does anyone have any links or information about emissions laws, especially in Colorado? I live out in the county, and was wondering if that helps at all. I was also wondering if there is a year mark that we can stop having our cars smogged, with or without collector plates.
So far I'm gonna try and clean the living crud outta the carb and check every hose and cable I can see, adjust the idle and fuel screws on the carb, and retime it. Hopefully I can get this done within 2 days, but I'm gonna take my time and be very thorough.
I really don't have the money or time to take my car too a shop right now, as convienient as that would be. I need just about every buck I can get, and paying for labor is something I would like too avoid more than buying a new exhaust.
P.S. Does anyone have any links or information about emissions laws, especially in Colorado? I live out in the county, and was wondering if that helps at all. I was also wondering if there is a year mark that we can stop having our cars smogged, with or without collector plates.
12-11-01, 10:26 PM
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Well, the no-idle and power surging come together and go together. One day the car will be happy as hell. The next it doesn't want to stay alive. I have no idea why some days it's great and others it's not so great. I love the car and really want to learn more.
So far I'm gonna try and clean the living crud outta the carb and check every hose and cable I can see, adjust the idle and fuel screws on the carb, and retime it. Hopefully I can get this done within 2 days, but I'm gonna take my time and be very thorough.
I really don't have the money or time to take my car too a shop right now, as convienient as that would be. I need just about every buck I can get, and paying for labor is something I would like too avoid more than buying a new exhaust.
P.S. Does anyone have any links or information about emissions laws, especially in Colorado? I live out in the county, and was wondering if that helps at all. I was also wondering if there is a year mark that we can stop having our cars smogged, with or without collector plates.
So far I'm gonna try and clean the living crud outta the carb and check every hose and cable I can see, adjust the idle and fuel screws on the carb, and retime it. Hopefully I can get this done within 2 days, but I'm gonna take my time and be very thorough.
I really don't have the money or time to take my car too a shop right now, as convienient as that would be. I need just about every buck I can get, and paying for labor is something I would like too avoid more than buying a new exhaust.
P.S. Does anyone have any links or information about emissions laws, especially in Colorado? I live out in the county, and was wondering if that helps at all. I was also wondering if there is a year mark that we can stop having our cars smogged, with or without collector plates.
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12-12-01, 07:40 AM
#8
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Stop "messing" with your timing... that's useless. You're problem is probably a partially blocked idle or primary or accelerator circuit in you carb. Remove the top part of the carb (floats) and blow some clean air down all the jets. Take your time and make sure you dont miss any. While you're at it, check the needle valve (connected to the floats) for any foreign material. This should solve your hickups when applying the throttle.
If, after doing this, your car seems better under acceleration, but still spudders and wants to die once in awhile (especially in the cold), check your choke flap. Prop it open and see if that fixes your problem. If the choke flap isnt returning to the fully open position within a couple minutes after starting your car cold, your car will backfire, stall and run really rough.
If, after doing this, your car seems better under acceleration, but still spudders and wants to die once in awhile (especially in the cold), check your choke flap. Prop it open and see if that fixes your problem. If the choke flap isnt returning to the fully open position within a couple minutes after starting your car cold, your car will backfire, stall and run really rough.
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