Clutch Slipping
#1
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Clutch Slipping
Hello All,
I have an 85' RX-7 that the clutch is slipping. Is there any adjustment that can tighten it up?
Also, if it can't be adjusted, does anyone know the cost of replacement (labor and materials)?
Thanks in advance.
I have an 85' RX-7 that the clutch is slipping. Is there any adjustment that can tighten it up?
Also, if it can't be adjusted, does anyone know the cost of replacement (labor and materials)?
Thanks in advance.
#2
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Location: racine wisconsin
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i replace my clutch because it too was slipping, i got a clutch from napa for $190.....but dont do this they SUCK i already had to replace it....but if u know what your doing its pretty stright forward....im 15 and did it all by myself in a couple hours.i would say your best bet is to order a ACT clutch kit off ebay and install it yourself
#3
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If it's slipping, it will have to be replaced.
I bought a Grip Force Raciung clutch and pressure plate off eBay (basically OEM style) for $110. I also replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder for $85. I probably should have had the flywheel surfaced but I didn't. I've got several hundred miles on it and it's doing fine.
- David
I bought a Grip Force Raciung clutch and pressure plate off eBay (basically OEM style) for $110. I also replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder for $85. I probably should have had the flywheel surfaced but I didn't. I've got several hundred miles on it and it's doing fine.
- David
#4
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Got one at Autozone for like $65.00 bucks and it came with a lifetime guarantee so you can bet your *** i rev it up and dump it all the time, though i only drive the 7 like 500 miles a year... 2k miles later its still holding strong.
Though i plan to replace it with a stage 2 zoom clutch when i put the 13B in
Though i plan to replace it with a stage 2 zoom clutch when i put the 13B in
#5
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As all have stated, when the clutch slips, it is time to replace.
If you get a Napa replacement, make sure it is the manufacturer, Beck Arnley.
They buy OEM components and put them in their boxes.
Things to consider doing and replacing while the clutch is out.
Besides the normal items such as. Clutch disk, pressure plate, T/out bearing, Pilot bearing and seal.
Have the flywheel resurfaced. While it is out, replace the rear main engine seal.
Inspect the input shaft seal area (shaft the T/o bearing rides on) for signs of leakage. Generally if the trans has over 70k and it has not been replaced, replace it, along with the rear extension housing seal.
Take a good look at the transmission mount. They usually separate from the metal.
Change the transmission fluid. Alot of us use synthetic. The synthetic protects against heat and also takes away that notchy shifting that is usually felt in winter or cold mornings.
Remove the seal off of the back of the clutch slave cylinder, if it is wet, it needs to be replaced.
Alot of times when you install a new clutch the hydraulics may soon fail afterwards.
If it is in your budget, it is a good time to replace the clutch master, clutch slave, and the clutch hose.
More the money that you would pay someone to replace just the clutch components, minus the hydraulic portion. You could probably buy jackstands, car ramps, floor jack, needed 2 1/8 socket with adapter or the flywheel nut wrench from racing beat, all of the above listed clutch components, hydraulics components, seals, trans mount, etc..... And have enough money left over for dinner. :-)