faye x7

Well, I know the slave is about had it. I notice it looks wet/dirty around there. Plus sometimes my pedal goes to the floor way to easily...mushy...spongey...weird basically. Sometimes I can't get into gear.

So what it comes down to, how hard...or maybe easy is it to replace both the slave and master. Slave looks easy enough, but the master looks like a bit more work. Could I follow the haynes manual. (Dunno if directions are in there or not haven't looked at the thing in months) Oh, it seems alot of you say to just buy kits and rebuild them both. Or do you think I should just go and buy new parts? Victoria British has them. Slave is $20 and the Master is $40. Good prices or no?

Anyway, thanks in advance.

inittab

The master is a real pain in the butt to replace but overall the whole job is fairly straight forward. Those prices seem pretty good. I recommend that you also order up a new rubber hose or better yet get yourself a nice braided stainless steel line instead. Good luck!

Ludicrous

Replaced both of mine this weekend. It took about an hour, and the instructions were in the Haynes (although I had help from a kind forum member with experience). I went with new parts, they were about the same prices you're looking at - which I found were good, compared to the local parts stores I called.

faye x7

Hmmm, where could I come across a stainless steel line? Or would I have to buy parts and fab up something myself?

Ludicrous

http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm

rhinor61

Very straight forward, and its a good idea to both old units at the same time.

MC is a 1#mm wrench on side the car, and the SC is a 12mm (or 14mm can't remeber) wobbly socket works best.

Bench bleednig MC is needed too.

Also replace the rubber coated hose that connects the metal line to the slave cylinder. Beware that line could be frozen on there, so spray it with pernatrating lube.

You did not give the year of your car so I can tell you what is/isn't a good price.
Check out this site, Joe has always been good to me on parts cost.

Discount auto parts

John

faye x7

Hmm, thanks alot guys. Once I get to work, I'll probably have questions.

edit: It's an 82, sorry. I figure all the 1st gens were the same, guess not.

LongDuck

If you are rebuilding your own master and slave cylinders, be very cautious on installation of the new pistons. Any tiny amount of grit or dirt on those rubber seals will eat them up withing 5-10k miles of use. The rubber O-rings on the replacement pistons should be dipped in clean brake fluid before installation, and you should run some down in the cylinders as well to be sure that they seat correctly.

The MC is better to remove from the car to replace the piston, as is the SC. Slave should be bled correctly to prevent a mushy brake pedal, and you can do this by bleeding with the system hooked up but BEFORE you reinstall the slave cylinder and actuating rod to the bell housing on the transmission.

If you hold the slave cylinder above the rest of the system with it's bleeder pointing up, you'll be able to get all air bubbles out of the line during your bleed procedure. Be sure to top off the reservoir prior to bleeding or you could run out and pump bubbles into the line from the master cylinder side. HTH,

faye x7

Yeah, the whole bleeding thing is something I've never done before. It'll be fun I bet...plus getting help is going to be annoying unless I buy those bleeding kits that let you do it by yourself? Is it worth it to get one of them?

John64

Its best to replace both with new units. The toital cost for two new units is less then $70. Getting them out is another answer. It is hard as hell to get those two nuts out on the master.(I will not repeat what I said in another post because someone got offended), but it isbest if you have small hands and patience. I bleed the system on my own. Just placed a few rags around the nipple and pushed real slow and let it sit then did it again. I wasted alot of fluid , but I did it none the less.

John

faye x7

I just ordered them through Victoria British and they'll probably be here in a couple of days. Cost me about $72 for it all. I will be ordering that hose from mazdatrix later when I get my parents to buy that from me since they owe me some money. heh

Aviator 902S

All true. The hardest part is removing and then re-tightening the two nuts on the inside of the firewall that go onto the studs from the master cylinder, which protrude from the outside of the firewall to the inside. BTW, the Haynes manual shows a different method that simply doesn't work, so ignore it.
There is very little clearance so your ratchet will only turn one click at a time, and the standard 12mm socket will *barely* grab the last millimeter of the nut because it isn't really deep enough to avoid interference from the stud--- but it will work with a little patience and lots of profanity.
But a 12mm deep socket won't work because it is too long to fit onto the nut without interference from the clutch pedal mounting bracket.
And an open end or box end wrench is as useless as a gum rubber chastity belt key since there's no room to swing them even if you could get them to seat onto the nut.

As for bleeding, this is a simple procedure but you'll need an assistant to monitor the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleeder screw to allow all air and old fluid to be ejected out of the system.
To do this first fill the reservior with new brake fluid (same as clutch fluid) and keep the container of new fluid within reach--- you'll need to keep topping up the reservior as you go. Do not let the reservoir run too low during this procedure or you'll introduce more air into the system.
Next, loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, then turn it back to just "snug", and then turn it counter-clockwise (ie: loosen) about 1/2 turn from snug. Next, have your assistant depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it there. When he (she) does this you'll see some air and fluid squirt out the top of the bleeder screw.
Now turn the screw back to snug again (so that no air can get sucked back into the system through the bleeder screw when your assistant lets up on the pedal, which you will now instruct him to do after you've snugged up the screw).
Sometimes at this early stage before there is sufficient fluid in the system the clutch pedal will not come back up on its own when your assistant lifts his foot off it. It will in that case be necessary to pull the pedal up off the floor by hand.
Now repeat this procedure--- have assistant push down on pedaland hold, loosen screw so that pedal pressure will push out air and dirty fluid, re-snug screw, have friend pull pedal back up. Be sure to re-fill reservior every 4th cycle or so to avoid pulling air back into the system through the bleeder screw.
Keep repeating this procedure until nothing comes out through the bleeder screw except an unbroken stream of clean fluid with no air present. (Before this occurs the pedal will have reached a point where it will return to the up position on its own after your assistant releases it, usually after the first three or four cycles). Then tighten the bleeder screw a final time to about 1/4 turn past snug.
You are now done.
Hint: to avoid a mess in you engine bay, attach a clear plastic hose of snug diameter over the nipple of the bleeder screw before you begin, and run the end of it into a suitable container under the car. This will keep the dirty fluid from spraying all over during the procedure.

BTW, your brakes are bled in the same manner. Start with the wheel that's farthest from the master cylinder (ie: right rear wheel), then work your way in--- left rear, right front, and finally the left front wheel, which is closest to the brake master cylinder.

83gslRX-7

and dont forget to pump your brakes after you are finished, befor you drive her.... or you wont have any!

CosmicButtHairs

Forget all that advice.
Just turn off the car, put it into first, turn on, the car will move and drive. At 20km/hr pop it in to 2nd gear without clutching then 40km/hr=3rd gear etc etc
Just kidding. Aviator 902S explained the procedure best. Don't forget those flare wrenches for the lines.

Aviator 902S

Yeah no kidding! Very good point. This is necessary to build pressure back up in the lines. I found that out the hard way once. Car pulled sideways as wheels on only one side locked up. Fortunately after about five frantic pumps everything evened out and I was able to stop before mowing down the neighbor's cedar hedge.
Best time to pump 'em up is at the end of the job and in your driveway BEFORE moving the car.

faye x7

Hah, I'll keep that in mind, but I'll just be bleeding the clutch only, breaks are something to be done probably after this winter.