I'm waiting for my clutch and new clutch pedal and bolt that connects it to the brake pedal. This is going to be my first time doing a clutch job and ill be doing it on jack stands in my garage.

 

What year is the car and what symptoms are prompting you to replace the clutch? You need a pedal and bolt? Is this a auto to manual swap?

 

I brought it to a shop because the clutch pedal wouldn't fully return even after a new master slave line and bleeding the system. When they were checking it out they found the bushings on the rod was gone and replaced with a random bolt destroying the threads on the clutch pedal. The shop said the clutch was shot and slipping so bad they had to push it up the little incline. I can let off the pedal and pull it back all the way in gear and the car will stay running. A few days before I brought it to the shop when I was driving it the clutch was letting out pretty high then it stopped releasing at all.

 

Did you replace the whole clutch hydraulic system or just the rubber line? The initial symptoms sound exactly like a master or a slave cylinder failure...the fluid blows by the seals and won't extend the slave's push rod enough to fully disengage the clutch.

Your later symptoms do sound like the clutch is slipping, which could have been okay, not great, but pushed over the edge by the the first problem.

I'm any case I would make sure the clutch hydraulics are sorted out, confirmed working, before changing out the clutch. I would pop off the slave from the transmission, it's just two bolts, and have a friend pump the pedal while you confirm full extension and sufficient force. Clamp the slave cylinder push rod and make sure the pedal is solid.

Also, bleeding the slave cylinder can be tricky. I bleed the cylinder before I reattach it to the transmission housing.

 

both the master and slave are new also when I bought the car i was told it had clutch issues so I tried the other stuff before I jumped into a clutch job. The car also has 83k on it and hasn't been it done before. The last time it shows anything on carfax before I got it passed emissions in 2000 at 70k.

 

Got ya. Here's the thread from when I did my clutch job, which was also the first time I'd ever done a clutch, the forum here was amazing.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...hread-1128545/

 

Fixed it for yah

 

thanks between this forum and some Facebook groups I've got a ton of help with this car. The couple times I did drive this car it definitely was not close to being as quick as my e36 m3 automatic was but it was so much more fun and stuck to the road just as good if not better. This car the e36 m3 svx and the grand national are my dream cars now the only one I haven't owned and probably never will is the grand national. I want to build this car into a weekend drive/show car.

 

I've put more than 300K miles on three separate FBs, and I've had quite a few clutch issues and replacements. I realize there were exacerbating factors:
- Feeble low rpm torque
- Lightweight aftermarket flywheels
- Questionable quality of aftermarket replacement parts

Nonetheless, when I compare FBs with other manual trans cars that I've owned (Toyota Celica, Cadillac CTS), the FBs have had significantly more issues.

My 2010 Cadillac CTS has the OEM single plate clutch with concentric slave cylinder. It has 160K miles, and it's still on the original clutch & hydraulics . . . all after being driven like I stole it.

I think an upgraded clutch system is an opportunity for some enterprising person.

 

I wanted to ask if you ever made any progress with the clutch hydraulics. Did you replace the hydraulic hose from the hard line coming off of the master cylinder?

 

I replaced the soft line that goes to the slave. I'm working on changing the pedal. I was going to do the pedal assembly but it wasn't coming out. I'm working on getting the rod out so I can get the old pedal off.

 

any tips on getting that long bolt out? I took the nut off but the bolt won't slide out.

 

Which long bolt are you trying to remove? Are you trying to replace the pedal assembly? The pedal has nothing to do with the hydraulic system. I believe to remove it, you would have to remove the complete clutch and brake pedal box. Or at least drop it down. This is something that you may not have to do.

There is a rod that runs from the back of the clutch pedal assembly and makes contact with the piston in the clutch master cylinder. You can adjust this rod in or out to adjust clutch pedal free play and take up. This is the only adjustment that can be made to the pedal itself for the clutch hydraulic system.

 

Im talking about that long bolt that holds the clutch and brake pedal to the assembly. That's the bolt from my backup assembly amd the spot it came out of.

 

Im talking about that long bolt that holds the clutch and brake pedal to the assembly. That's the bolt from my backup assembly amd the spot it came out of.

 

Use a punch

 

I can't get one in with it in the car. But after looking at it better the bolt is bent so I'm guessing I'll have to cut the bolt to get it off.

 

Try tapping it as far as you can with the nut off with the edge of a hammer. The put some vice grips one the other end between the bolt head and shaft. This should give a little leverage. I've done this when I converted an auto to manual on my 1985.

 

these are some pics of as far as I could get it out

 

You might need to take the entire pedal box out. I've never had an issue taking one apart. Yours must be rust fused to the bushings. That is not a good place to use heat.

Looks like you got one of the pedals off because there shouldn't be that much of the nut side exposed. Maybe a cat-paw type pry bar on the bolt head.

 

That's why I was thinking of cutting it on the threaded side because the bolt starts to bend right where it's sticking. Then hopefully i would have room to use a punch.

 

That might just work. Can't hurt anything.

 

now I just need to figure out what to use to cut it that tight area

 

Instead of cutting the bolt, just remove the pedal box as an assembly. Its mote labor intensive, but once the pedal box is out you will have unrestricted access to replacing the clutch pedal.

 

I had tried to get the whole pedal box but it wasn't wanting to come out so I tried just going with taking the pedal and bolt out.