Choke question on a 12a with no rats nest
09-20-11, 09:04 PM
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Choke question on a 12a with no rats nest
So apparently I can send 12v to one of the wires that used to plug into the temp sensor in the back of the water pump housing so that the choke will stay out when I pull it out and then I can just manually push it back in when the engine is warm. Unfortunately I suck at reading schematics so can someone point out which wire I need to send 12v to?
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i5...s/c3bf65b1.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i5...s/c3bf65b1.jpg
09-20-11, 09:26 PM
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Hard to say from the picture you included for your car, but on my '80 I just took 12V from the wire that opens the float bowl vent solenoid which is ignition switched 12V, and fed it to the side of the choke temp switch that came from the ECU, after disconnecting the wire to the ECU. It seems to work fine.
09-20-11, 11:24 PM
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This is what my '80 looks like for engine electronics after rats nest removal. Your wiring diagram looks notable more complex then mine did before the stripping, though. What year is your car?
Edit: From your profile it looks like you have an '85, and from the wiring diagram on foxed.ca for that year it looks like the choke magnet is already tied to ignition switched 12V? So it should work without any modifications.
Edit: From your profile it looks like you have an '85, and from the wiring diagram on foxed.ca for that year it looks like the choke magnet is already tied to ignition switched 12V? So it should work without any modifications.
09-20-11, 11:55 PM
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It looks like it should still be working as long as the "No 1 Water Temp Switch" is still in place. The connection to the hot start switch looks like it just powers the relay.
If the temp switch is still wired in, I would look and make sure it has 12V to one side of it, and when cold 12V on the other side.
If the temp switch is still wired in, I would look and make sure it has 12V to one side of it, and when cold 12V on the other side.
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09-21-11, 08:27 AM
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ok now just so I dont send 12v to the wrong place the LW wire should go straigt from the switch via the wire harness and the BW wire is the long one the used to make a few other stops on the engne right?
09-21-11, 01:02 PM
#9
If the #1 water temperature switch (rear of thermostat housing) is not working you can place a jumper wire in its plug. Connecting the Bw wire (switched 12v) to the Lw wire (to the choke switch) will activate the choke magnet whenever the ignition switch is turned on. Removing the rats nest will not effect the choke switch unless you disconnected the plug to the water temp switch. You can test the #1 water temp. switch with a multimeter. The switch is on when water temp gauge needle is below the 1/4 mark and off when the needle is at or above 1/4. In other words, with the plug attached to the switch, Lw wire should have 12v when cold and 0v when warmed up.
09-21-11, 01:46 PM
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Awesome the jumper works perfect! Now just gotta find some of the old connectors from when I removed all the unnecessary stuff from the engine harness. Thanks a ton!
09-21-11, 02:40 PM
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I know but I guess that temp switch is bad which is weird cuz it worked fine in my other car. I'm just gonna pull the temp switch and plug the hole.
09-21-11, 05:10 PM
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I don't believe the Emissions control unit is controlling anything else after the rats nest is removed, at least not in my '80. I am planning to pull it out, just haven't got there(still gotta fix the brakes, the drivers window, and a flooding problem...)
09-21-11, 05:21 PM
#15
With the magnet energized the choke **** stays out when you pull it. When the car warms up you push it in by hand.
The fuel pump cut relay gets its ground from the ECU. Cruise, speed sensor, AC relay and probably other stuff get a signal from the ECU. If you have deleted or manually wired everything connected to the ECU it could be removed.
The fuel pump cut relay gets its ground from the ECU. Cruise, speed sensor, AC relay and probably other stuff get a signal from the ECU. If you have deleted or manually wired everything connected to the ECU it could be removed.
09-21-11, 05:42 PM
#16
Okay. So with the magnet energized it's like when the car is cold now and the choke is harder to push/pull. With the magnet off, it sucks the **** back in.
Excellent. I've got an '82 and that emissions unit is the perfect spot for my keyless entry box. I'll re-check the wiring. Cruise is unaffected by the ECU. A/C is seperate too from what I remember, it runs on the pressure/freeze switches and the push button, actuates the solenoid for the carb might be ecu but I think I just have that on the same circuit as the compressor circuit.
Be careful pushing the choke **** in when the magnet is ON apparently. It's harder to push and mine slipped the threaded circular nut off the threads. Haven't found a nice fix for that yet.
Excellent. I've got an '82 and that emissions unit is the perfect spot for my keyless entry box. I'll re-check the wiring. Cruise is unaffected by the ECU. A/C is seperate too from what I remember, it runs on the pressure/freeze switches and the push button, actuates the solenoid for the carb might be ecu but I think I just have that on the same circuit as the compressor circuit.
Be careful pushing the choke **** in when the magnet is ON apparently. It's harder to push and mine slipped the threaded circular nut off the threads. Haven't found a nice fix for that yet.
09-21-11, 06:00 PM
#17
Looks like just the A/C relay 2 get's the solenoid's power from the ecu. That's easy. Turn that to ignition power, and the rest of the circuit runs independently. The Choke/Check relay is the only questionable thing. Since my lights never really worked right after an alternator upgrade I wont be sad to see it go!
09-21-11, 06:24 PM
#19
It's super easy. Those solenoids don't take much power at all to run. And there is a plethora of Ign Power on wires that go to the rats nest area. You wont need another relay, just to put ign power to the "GY" wire at the A/C #2 relay. Pin L of the ECU.
09-22-11, 12:38 PM
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Ok so my rear defrost hasn't worked since bought my car so now that's my choke on/off switch. Hmmm I bet I'm the first to have a manual choke on/off switch in a 1st gen 7 lol. Also swapped out my blower assy with the one in my other 7 and I'm getting more air flow now but it still seems like there's always air going to the feet when it should all be going to the windshield. I tried playing with the linkage but that didn't really help.
09-22-11, 04:08 PM
#22
Might be the first on an RX-7, but I used an RX-7 choke switch wired to a manual switch and the brake light switch on my old RX-4. Wasn't for the choke, but made a pretty good Rube Goldberg cruise control.
The FSM shows how to adjust the mode control cables. Last section of Chapter 15. If the cable has slipped the door won't close completely.
The FSM shows how to adjust the mode control cables. Last section of Chapter 15. If the cable has slipped the door won't close completely.
09-22-11, 07:23 PM
#23
Looking closer at the schematic, why can't the wire from the emission ecu be applied to 12v ign source? Then you still use the water temp switch to apply the choke relay based on temp. Clearly the other side of the relay is grounded, thus the 12v supply would come from the ecu to the temp switch, then from the switch to the relay.
This will keep your choke functioning properly.
This will keep your choke functioning properly.
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