I am new at the site, and new to rotory. I just recently purchasde a 1984 rx7 12A 1.1 litter engine with 140,000 miles everything stock, but i am unaware of what type gsl se or gsl may someone please advise me how I can find out, also I am trying to install an aftermarket carburetor can some advise me what are the pros and cons of conducting such modification (I am looking for more power at the lowest cost). Also what other mods are available at not such a big cost. THANK YOU guys and gals. Also I just instaled a bush button start completly keyles, if any one need any assistence to conduct this let me know.

 

Check the FAQ's. Check "Trochoids" signature line for FSM and Carb manual.

Use the search function alot, it is your friend. ALL of the info you need has been covered.

Welcome to the forum

K. Alot of aftermarket carbs out there. One guy on the forum modifies stock ones to make more power. (sterling, www.sterlingmetalworks.com)

AGAIN please use the search function it has ALL been covered

 

in case you cant use the links in his sig

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

FSM and carb manuals. Start reading stuff in the FAQ's and archives to learn about these cars and their pitfalls(things that can go wrong if ignored)

Also just to help a bit. If it is a 12A motor it is NOT a GSL-SE, that was fuel injected 13B.

GSL had AC and 4 wheel disc brakes. Dont know about other models

 

Welcome

Let's see, it's not a GSL SE because it has the 12A.
If it has rear disc brakes it's a GSL and has a LSD diff.
You wont get much power without upgrading your EXHAUST first.
Here is a link for you to read - https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-easiest-way-make-hp-stock-12a-686989/

 

There is alot of info on this forum. Spend your time reading through random threads and stuff cuz you will learn lots.

Side note: ways what are we alberta folks doing up at 1am on a saturda/sunday


OOH I remembered stuff. Since it has a bunch of miles, first thing to do is change ALLL of the fluids. Oil (read about it in FAQ), Trans Fluid, Diff fluid. Do the maitenance first, then worry about going fast.

 

This is what I should have said.
Cheap speed = basic tune up.
ie. new sparkplugs (NGK), they really will give you a more responsive engine, cap and rotor, sparkplug wires, and change all fluids.
If you still have money after that then upgrade your exhaust.


I'm reading up about tokico illumina's for my suspension swap.
Yes, I spend a lot of time on here reading and studying up so I try not to ask questions that have already been answered.

 

No carb upgrade, including removing emissions control stuff, is going to get you any gain in performance until you have a header exhaust. Racing Beat's the best by far, big bucks, but bucks well spent. After you recover from that hole blasted in your wallet, then you can start looking at the intake end of the engine.
Welcome, and have fun!

 

Thank you

 

This is the route I took. RB streetport exhaust was the first power adder. Money VERY well spent, although it was ALOT of money very well spent.
It wound up costing more because of shipping costs and duties. I'm now working on the intake side of things with one of Sterlings masterpieces. Keep in mind, bigger carb needs more fuel. Get yourself a good pump, pressure regulator and really decent gauge, or you will be sorely disappointed with your carb.

 

What type of gauge will you recommend getting ??

Thanks

 

I bought the one available from RE-Speed. It cost about $60 total. They did their homework and it's supposed to be the most accurate gauge they could find. Considering that a carbed 12A only needs about 2PSI of fuel pressure, any small deviation that your gauge won't read is going to cost you. Keep in mind of course I have not used it yet as my Sterling is still in the manufacturing process, so I can't give any first hand experience. However from the reputation RE-Speed has, I'd trust them without any hesitation.

 

http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalo...017568b99cab62

so this gauge goes into the engine bay then??

Thanks.

 

yes, the best way I have seen the tapping into the second outlet at the FPR.

 

That's my plan although I do plan to get the dry break kit so I don't have to leave it hanging in the engine bay. It's a little too expensive and definitly too important to be leaving in there vibrating and bouncing around when I'm not tuning the car.

 

I echo the advice of improving the exhaust first. You don't necessarily have to go with new though. I managed to find a Racing Beat header and presilencer for $150 total. Keep searching the 1st gen parts forum and post your own WTB to get the ball rolling. I got the majority of my parts off of this forum with a few exceptions through ebay. Good luck with your new project and be sure to keep us up-to-date with your progress!