carbueretor questions
12-21-07, 09:17 AM
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flierromeo
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carbueretor questions
aiht so heres the thing, ive got a 1st gen gsl-se with a stock 4 barrel carb, 12a motor...
i want to change the carb, ive heard some rumors from a little island in the carribean, that you could change the carb, without doing major engine work like porting. and just with the proper carb, the front nd would lift of the ground when you pull off the line.
i'd prefer if you you dont say holley, cause they suck, they suck *****
i want to change the carb, ive heard some rumors from a little island in the carribean, that you could change the carb, without doing major engine work like porting. and just with the proper carb, the front nd would lift of the ground when you pull off the line.
i'd prefer if you you dont say holley, cause they suck, they suck *****
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12-22-07, 03:58 AM
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You should back up what you say about products if so many other people are using them successfully. Have you had bad personal experiences with Holleys or just from word of mouth.
Check Racing Beat for a couple carb options. They have the Holley, but Webers and Dellortos as well. Or you could email Sterling and have him build you a modified Nikki (stock 12A carb) that will perform just as well as most aftermarket carbs. A few other members have bought from him and were very pleased with his product and customer service. I bought one just recently and I'm just waiting for him to start on it and get it sent out to me. So far my experience with him has been very good. Pretty much instant email reply's, and he's very knowledgable about carbs.
Just remember a carb is not going to make your car run 9's or lift the wheels off the ground. You would basically need to build an all out drag car with a LOT of power for that to happen. A good carb on a stock motor will net approx. 20HP if tuned properly. Keep in mind to take advantage of that carb you MUST replace the exhaust with a better flowing unit. On a rotary engine that is the biggest constriction.
A 6 barrel carb is meant for a V6 engine, because each barrel goes to one cylinder. Much like a V8 would use 2 4 barrels. The reason for the stock 4 barrel Nikki is to obtain good low end power and response as well as good high end power, while also delivering good fuel economy. A Mikuni, Dellorto or Weber, will give you much more response up high, and not as much down low, due to the sizing and single barrel per rotor setup.
Search, search, search, and you'll find the answers you seek. Now, go forth and chew up apex seals. Good luck.
Check Racing Beat for a couple carb options. They have the Holley, but Webers and Dellortos as well. Or you could email Sterling and have him build you a modified Nikki (stock 12A carb) that will perform just as well as most aftermarket carbs. A few other members have bought from him and were very pleased with his product and customer service. I bought one just recently and I'm just waiting for him to start on it and get it sent out to me. So far my experience with him has been very good. Pretty much instant email reply's, and he's very knowledgable about carbs.
Just remember a carb is not going to make your car run 9's or lift the wheels off the ground. You would basically need to build an all out drag car with a LOT of power for that to happen. A good carb on a stock motor will net approx. 20HP if tuned properly. Keep in mind to take advantage of that carb you MUST replace the exhaust with a better flowing unit. On a rotary engine that is the biggest constriction.
A 6 barrel carb is meant for a V6 engine, because each barrel goes to one cylinder. Much like a V8 would use 2 4 barrels. The reason for the stock 4 barrel Nikki is to obtain good low end power and response as well as good high end power, while also delivering good fuel economy. A Mikuni, Dellorto or Weber, will give you much more response up high, and not as much down low, due to the sizing and single barrel per rotor setup.
Search, search, search, and you'll find the answers you seek. Now, go forth and chew up apex seals. Good luck.
12-22-07, 04:11 AM
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hey i just staryed up my 1st gen and it has stock carb and its like a little of tune how do i reset the litle needle screw with the pring thats on the side of the carb
12-22-07, 11:49 AM
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One screw is the mixture screw, you shouldn't need to touch it, the other is the idle speed screw, which you turn counter clockwise to lower the idle, or clockwise to raise the idle, aiming for between 750-900 RPM. Try adjusting your idle first, if that doesn't help then try the mixture, but don't touch it if you don't have to.
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