Your sure you have no vacuum leaks? I just did a rebuild on my carb and I thought I didnt at first, then I found that my spacer was leaking today. Double check.

 

I agree, its starting to sound like a vacuum issue...

 

[QUOTE=I purchased the kit from Advance Auto Parts. I'll let you know when I find the box again what company it is.[/QUOTE]

That rebuild kit is the GP Sorensen PN 96555 Rebuild......

Funny story, I sold one of those to a freind of mine a few weeks ago (85 GSL), and it did the same thing.....

As far as buying a new one, at Advance Auto Parts we try to maintain that every customer gets the right part....if it failed as you stated, our policy is to replace it with another kit free of charge.....If your cashier hesitates, tell him to call store # 1062 and I'll figure it out personally.

 

I hate to be a nuisance, but not am I only new to carburetors, I'm pretty new to working on cars in general. I have my haynes manual, and some other diagrams, but if you guys could show/tell me the most common areas to have vacuum leaks as far as a starting point, because I know I need to check the hoses, but any help would be well....helpful.

I finally have some free time tomorrow and I'm going to buy some starting fluid or carb+ choke cleaner and see if i can figure this vacuum leak stuff out.

That being said, how big of leak would cause the car to stall when you push on the accelerator slightly, making it stop running or drop rpm's tremendously? I would think big, right?

-Also to wankel, a friend of mine works at Advance Auto, so he got me squared away, it was just a hassle. haha. Thanks though.

 

Accel pump not pumping enough?

 

Good news! I found my airleak, and got it taken care of, it idles..and even idles where it's supposed to in drive (750 rpm), and even drives! I'm ecstatic about that.

Still having issues with stalling when i push too hard on the accelerator though, it stalls at around 1500 rpms, and only then. After that i can free rev as much as i want. But if i try to throttle too quickly below 1500 rpms it will start to stall.
I'm thinking its fuel related, maybe floats? [since i did adjust them, which might have been a dumb idea.]

 

1. What was the leak?

2. Do you have mechanical secondaries?

 

Vacuum secondaries, just a removed rat nest.

The leak was the hose on the back of the manifold that commonly cracks from wear and heat from it being next to the exhaust. I want to say afterburner hose?

 

bump.

 

double bump.

 

I seem to remember you saying something about bending your float tabs to get them equaled out. Did you do this by eyeball? Either way, let me tell you from personal experience to get yourself a digital caliper. Borrow it, buy it, steal it, as long as you get one. Set those floats to the exact mazda carb manual specs and leave them alone from here on out. Sterling and others are right, don't mess with em unless absolutly necessary.

 

Would you figure that is the issue? because that's what i'm assuming it is too. I already have a caliper i just wanted to get some ideas before pulling the carb apart again.


Thanks.

p.s. i will admit i was an idiot and didn't do them to spec, just eyeballed it. So yay for 4 times the work because i was lazy.

 

Could very well be. There's only one way to eliminate the possibility though. On your sight gauges, where is the fuel level at out of curiosity?

 

it looks to be about in the middle of the sightglass, or where it should be. But i should still probably check them just to eliminate the possibility. I'll have sometime to do so later this week.

Could the spring and screw that pushes the accelerator pump [just to the right of the ap] need adjustment perhaps?

 

Well, i have an update but i need some help still:


I took my airhorn off and i used a set of digital calipers to put my floats to spec, and did just that.

I'm still having the acceleration issues though, where if i push on the accelerator barely around 1500-2000 rpm's the engine just gasps quite literally and then just dies, unless i get off the gas.

I know i fixed my airleaks, and i'm idling fairly well, it's just doing this weird thing when accelerating. After 2000 rpm's the engine rev's fine, when the secondaries kick in. I'm pretty stumped. any help would be great.

 

15 hour bump. lol

really could use some help.

 

I have more of an update and a video!



A friend and I have spent the last week off and on converting my car to a manual transmission and did a lot of preventative maintenance along the way, probably end up posting a new thread for that later, but since I was still having so many issues with the carb i pulled the damn thing off again and checked all my weights and needles, everything. found some dirt and tarnishing that i missed that i cleaned with compressed air and carb+ choke cleaner.

Got the engine and new transmission put back in got it idling beautifully in comparison to all the other crap that i would like to call idling that i was having. It idles very stable, as you will see in the video, so that leads me to believe there are no vacuum leaks, but since I'm still having this bogging issue I might be rechecking everything.



Here's a video to hopefully better explain with the next paragraph:
-On a side note i want to apologize for the banner in the middle, had to use a video converter to be able to upload it.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v6...rx7bogging.flv


This bogging only seems to happen right around 2000rpm's on free-rev or while it's in gear. In the video you'll see that if i push on the gas, the rpm's will increase nicely till about 2000 rpm's and then you actually hear the engine stutter. [you might have to turn your volume up a little bit.] If i can manage to rev past 2000rpm's, it'll rev freely again, it's just during 1500-2000rpms. I also want to note that when i say "right there" it's not me letting off the accelerator and the rpm's going down, i pushed harder on the accelerator and it started doing the bogging.

 

Figured out my issue!

I went ahead and bought a fuel pressure gauge just to make sure it wasn't my fuel pump that wasn't pushing enough fuel. Sure enough, it was pnly pushing 1.5 to 2 psi max. Changed it out for a Mr. Gasket pump and regulator just to be sure that was the culprit. Took it for a spin last night and it worked really well. Time to take the mr. gasket back and i think im going to get a holley.