my 83 gsl nikki carb is filling up with fuel to the rim and then overflowing and i have no idea why i just took it all apart and cleaned it put it all back together and when i went to start it and the fuel pours out the top.

my problem was i wasnt getting enough fuel, now its way way to much wtf!?

Any ideas?! the help would be appriciated. thanks yall.

 

Make sure the fuel cut solenoid is plugged in.

 

I dont mean to sound stupid or anything but what is that? and where is it? a picture would be helpfull.

 

It's also called an air (bowl) vent solenoid-- many posts about this. It's under the carb fuel inlet/outlet lines. Should have a wire connected to it. Also, if you put in new needle valves they have a tendancy to stick for awhile. Another thing to check is float level-- also many posts about this.

Good luck!
- David

 

I think its the fuel cut solenoid but its still overflowing how do i fix this?

 

Use the provided link and download both the FSM and carb manual.

http://www.wankel.net/~krwright/cars/rx7/manuals.html

Solenoid is the wire directly under the fuel feed lines at the top driver's side of the carb.

 

could also be a stuck float. this happens when the car sits for some time and the gas turns toa varnish around the floats. the floats are then stuck in the down position and are not allowing the fuel to be cut off, thus it will keep dumping into the carb.

 

okay so i know for sure its not my floats. and im almost possitive its that fuel cut solenoid. I downloaded that manual but its not really helping much.

i was wondering if the wiring on that peice went bad would my carb overflow like that? its overflowing a rediculouse amount.

 

well, if the wiring were bad it would cause the solenoid not to work properly.. have you tested the soleniod?

 

i dont have anything to test it with. i took the fuel pump off and put a weaker one but its still overflowing...just not as fast.

 

anymore ideas anyone cause im really at a loss here and i can't afford to buy a new carb.

 

To test the solenoid, take it off, along with the little spring and sliding valve that goes in it, and use jumper wires to connect it across the battery (clean off/up all fuel first!)

If it's good, the part that slides in and out (armature) will suck in firmly ("solenoid" means "sucking coil") whenever 12V goes thru it.


You could also have a float that's binding or getting stuck, and not closing the needle valve. Or one that's fuel-saturated and doesn't float any more.

Overflowing carb almost always means something's up with the floats, needles, or seat seals. Especially right after a rebuild.

 

i wouldn't lean towards the air vent solenoid valve...its job is to vent the float chamber to the charcoal canister as the engine is shutting down.. to test it for peace of mind, apply 12V to it. when you do, the valve stem should be pulled into the seat. thats the only way to test it as far as i know. remember, its only allowing fuel vapors to escape the carburetor and vent into the canister and will only be needed when the engine is shut down. i suppose if that little guy is bad you'd be smelling gas more so than normal after shut down.

i would pull the carb apart and inspect the needle and the seat. while you're in there, you might as well rebuild the carb. at the very least install new needles and seats, new accelerator pump, gaskets, remove one at a time and blow out all of the air bleeds one at a time and reinstall each one after you've finished and reinstall in the exact spot it came from. remove each jet one at a time and clean them and blow through them, checking for obstructions. remove the floats and check each one for splits or cracks or sunken spots. make sure they move freely and do not catch on the walls of the bowls. make sure the floats are properly adjusted. this is a basic bare bones carb rebuild.

 

that part that the arrow is pointing to is different than the one on my carb. is there somewhere i can buy a new one of those? just that part?

 

i've got tons of them. pm with any questions

 

is this the style you have?

 

That's the prettiest Nikki I've ever seen. A true work of art. Keep up the great work.

 

Check the restrictor in the return line. Make sure it is installed, and installed in the correct position. Otherwise, after you turn the car off, fuel will fill up the barrels of the carb and make restarting a real bitch.




.

 

High praise coming from you, Trochoid.

I may have my limits as a mechanic, but I've no equal as a janitor!

 

I do my best to give credit where credit is due. Personally, I find it to be a work of art, let alone function.

Testing the solenoid is simple, remove it, grab a couple pieces of wire and connect it to the battery. If it clicks or the plunger goes in/out, it's good. There is also a nearly identical wire plug connector that can be mistakenly plugged into the solenoid, rendering it useless. I made that mistake once and it took quite a while 'til I figured that one out.

Don't knock janitors, I've worked in that capacity myself. It helped me get though college.

 

Let's hope the function lives up to the form! It'll be a bit before it can go back in.

Never would; anyone who's done a stint with Uncle Sam's Misguided Children has done their share of janitoriation, and then some.

 

that one up there is the style of solenoid i have. I'm going to try and test it and if its bad do any of you have one i could get from you? cause im almost possitive that this is the only thing keeping me from driving it.

 

which style do you need?

 

The air (bowl) vent solenoid is purely an emmissions item. As far as I know, no one sells new ones. If it's bad, best thing to do is disable it. There's a post on the forum on how to do this.

- David