Alright after a ton of ordeals I finally get my car all back together and now I have a running problem. I believe I must of wacked one of the floats because at idle i'm getting fuel dumped into the upper left secondary. Not spray, dripping. I'm good with this carb so far and thats the only thing I can think of. I removed the screens in the carb banjos because they're so messed up and wanted to flow better fuel. I have lots of lilttle filters so dont worry. What I need to know when I readjust it is what the specs are for it. I once had a diagram with it on it from a NAPA rebuild kit. I just cant find it or recall what the demensions are. Thanks in advance!

 

First of all, is your float bowl vent solenoid still in place?
If it's not hooked up, your carb will flood as described.

If it's a float tab adjustment problem, you would've had to just about sit on it to bend it enough to bleed out.
Have you tried the "smacking on top of it with a plastic screwdriver handle" thang?

If you are insistant on adjusting the floats, then simply make them both the same as the working one...

or;

With horn upside down, gasket in place, the top edges (the closest to the gasket) should be about 16 or 17 mm from the gasket. This makes the top face of the float lay pretty much parallel with the gasket, or pitched up towards the tips at 2 or 3 degrees.

The float drop shouldn't go much past 50 mm. Too far does you no good anyway, and just allows room for needle retaining spring binding.

Now there are a variety of rebuild kits out there, and so there are at LEAST three differnt needle-seat configurations. So the float drop setting is NEEDLE & SEAT SPECIFIC, and this is just a generalization.
(Closed needle float measurement applies to all makes though.)

When setting float drop, you really only need to make certain that you can visually see the needle pressure pin release, and the actual needle release a bit.
Flaot drop setting is only truely important for WOT track racing applications where the emulsion system is being utilized a a crucial part of hi RPM fuel mixture tuning.
It is hardly a concern for a stock Nikki- only that there's room for the needles to open.

 

Thanks alot dude, your great. Now that I think of it I dont think I did hook up that solenoid, damnit me again. Well looks like I can work on it alot more now, since I got laid off today.

 

Uh-oh!

I gave bum advice here...

-That "50mm" is the measurement from the gasket to the absolute bottom (underneath) of the float!

The float drop measurement from the gasket to the top edge of the float should be about 28 mm.

 

Its all good bro, I did wack the right float (looking from passengers side) and I just lined it back up and nice a straight, fixed it. Now I gotta get me idle mixture back in tune cause it likes to bog now. Thanks for the help sterling!