1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Car won't go past 60

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Old 08-10-17, 08:19 PM
  #26  
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Changed it about 2 hours ago and got full of gas, thanks for the heads up guys! JK! I thought I could block it off with my finger, nope. After the replacement, the car was running rough for about 10 seconds and then reverted back to normal. For the 300 feet, i drove it ( from my house down the street to my other house) I immediately noticed an influx in power/ responsivity. Maybe the pump is fine and it was just a really dirty old filter. And yes I will replace the lines eventually and delete the top filter. I hit the highway tonight and see if i can climb above 60, if not ill add more ATF fluid until it hits the H mark ( it's 1/4th of the way up from L to H ) , try again, and if that fails, then the fuel pump is getting fixed. IF THAT doesn't solve it might be the Tranny. If it's the tranny im putting the 7 in the garage and decommissioning it and swapping back to my mustang. I don't have that kinda money ATM sadly. The 7 is 100X better than my mustang. the Mustangs only good for picking up chicks and burnouts XD

Last edited by Frogman; 08-10-17 at 08:24 PM.
Old 08-10-17, 08:50 PM
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Check the filter again after putting some miles on it for junk in it. Looking at pic of old filter you posted,appeared it had been weeping fuel for a long time on the back side(dark stain)may want to check and make sure connections on both ends of new filter are tight/dry. Don't add fluid to tranny til at operating temp,pay attention to shift points on 2-3 shift. If engine seems to run good but not upshifting properly, follow steps to diagnose modulator in previous post.
Old 08-10-17, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
Check the filter again after putting some miles on it for junk in it. Looking at pic of old filter you posted,appeared it had been weeping fuel for a long time on the back side(dark stain)may want to check and make sure connections on both ends of new filter are tight/dry. Don't add fluid to tranny til at operating temp,pay attention to shift points on 2-3 shift. If engine seems to run good but not upshifting properly, follow steps to diagnose modulator in previous post.
The lines need to be replaced, the inlet one Is ok but the outlet line is mushy like bubble gum .
Also, the car was shifting really late/ not engaging in first gear before I added in a fluid, it was basically marking right on the L. I put the car in N and let it run for 15 mins, checked it, Fluid was slightly marking under L . Put the car in drive and put the E brake on. I checked then, fluid was slightly above L, filled it up with a quarter of a quart, the issue got SLIGHTLY better, checked again both times it was slightly above L, I added in the remainder of the quart. Marks at 1/4th above L. Im guessing the car takes in 5 quarts of ATF fluid and it marks L when the car has 1 Quart left.I understand over filling it will eat the seals and cause massive issues, but I drove the car pretty hard up/down a twisty hill for about an hour after I did so and noticed nothing but improved shifting and responsivity. The issue with not going above 60 was before I added fluid. Basically, before I did at stop signs the car would either engage in the first gear 50/50 of the time. now its 100% of the time with smooth shifts instead of hard ones.

Tonight im going to count the shifts. IF they all engage the trans is fine if they don't im going to add another quart. IF it still doesn't engage then il check the modulator. If that's good THEN il buy a new pump. I can't hurt the car by adding in more fluid, iv triple checked, it's marking under half. Also thanks a lot, I owe you one!

Last edited by Frogman; 08-10-17 at 09:13 PM.
Old 08-10-17, 09:30 PM
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You want to check atf hot after driving,on a level spot and in park. NOT in gear,again regarding fluid level,more is not better. Does not necessarily "blow seals" but even slight overfilling will foam the fluid which is not good for lubrication and consistent hydraulic action and may push excess atf from vent on transmission. Everything expands when hot ,atf fluid does too and overfull when not up to temp becomes more so after at operating temperature. There is no further benefit from adding more fluid to a full transmission. MIdpoint between low and full is what you want to achieve.
Take care of this trans as parts/replacements are rare.
Old 08-10-17, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
You want to check atf hot after driving,on a level spot and in park. NOT in gear,again regarding fluid level,more is not better. Does not necessarily "blow seals" but even slight overfilling will foam the fluid which is not good for lubrication and consistent hydraulic action and may push excess atf from vent on transmission. Everything expands when hot ,atf fluid does too and overfull when not up to temp becomes more so after at operating temperature. There is no further benefit from adding more fluid to a full transmission. MIdpoint between low and full is what you want to achieve.
Take care of this trans as parts/replacements are rare.

The first time I checked it, i had been driving for 3 hours and it was on L , the Dip stick has a L and an H with about an inch in between. Its currently slightly above L , its nowhere near H. Should it be in the middle or on L . Im guessing it should be slightly below H .

If this is the dip stick it marks this after the quart * ) is the ATF level
Now ---L--)--------H---

Before it marked this ---)L)---------H---

I would it be bad if it marked this ---L------)----H---

NVM I just saw you sugested midpoint, its not at midpoint at the moment, its inbetween midpoint and low ( 1/4th of the way up)
Old 08-11-17, 01:29 AM
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After taking it on the highway, I can gladly say it was the filter! Hauled *** right into 82 mph until I decided to stop accelerating : nod: Holy **** these cars are fast, I started at 40 mph and it got to 80 within like three and a half seconds . my Sentra takes a good 6 seconds on over drive with a CVT. Feels like a gained 10 hp. stupid filter . It also starts up instantly now like my modern cars. Before it took just a tad longer. It's never had issues starting but I was surprised it was on almost immediately after I turned the key. It pisses me off so much a girl hit my car 15 mins after buying it on my way home, and her insurance refused to pay me despite the fact the police/ my insurance found me at zero faults ! Her insurance keeps saying i failed to yield despite the B***ch taking an illegal turn

Last edited by Frogman; 08-11-17 at 01:36 AM.
Old 08-11-17, 05:12 AM
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Glad all worked out for you. Whenever you have a driveability problem-on any car,1st thing to be investigated is maintenance items:filters,plugs,cap,rotor,etc. I know how you feel regarding damage to your car. Have owned my car for 25 years without putting a scratch on it,girl runs stop sign,tried to avoid her... Her insurance co. tried to total my car, took months of persistence,lots of pictures of the car,working my way up the chain to supervisors to management. They eventually agreed to pay amount dictated by 3 different bodyshops which i was glad for-but wish never happened in 1st place. Keep after her ins. co,get repair estimates,take pics,stay on them-to them it's just a 35 year old car...
Attached Thumbnails Car won't go past 60-img_1021.jpg   Car won't go past 60-img_1026.jpg  
Old 08-11-17, 08:46 AM
  #33  
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I to have a 1979 I picked up this past February. It hasn't ran in twenty years. Before taking it on the road I'm changing basically everything that is a wear item. I's suggest you do the same.

1. All fuel hoses
2. Brakes - shoes/pads/brake cylinders/rebuild calipers - rotors/drums if needed
3. Soft brake lines
4. Brake master
5. Clutch master and slave
6. Oil lines to oil cooler
7. Fuel filters
8. Drained old gas
9. optional - motor and trans mounts
10. Drain and flush rad
11. Rear end and trans fluid
12. oil/filter - I also replaced the oil pan gasket because I noticed some oil and was pulling the engine anyway.
13. spark plugs/wires/dizzy cap and rotor
14. I also changed the intake gasket and water seals because of leak.

Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 08-11-17 at 08:52 AM.
Old 08-11-17, 05:22 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I to have a 1979 I picked up this past February. It hasn't ran in twenty years. Before taking it on the road I'm changing basically everything that is a wear item. I's suggest you do the same.

1. All fuel hoses
2. Brakes - shoes/pads/brake cylinders/rebuild calipers - rotors/drums if needed
3. Soft brake lines
4. Brake master
5. Clutch master and slave
6. Oil lines to oil cooler
7. Fuel filters
8. Drained old gas
9. optional - motor and trans mounts
10. Drain and flush rad
11. Rear end and trans fluid
12. oil/filter - I also replaced the oil pan gasket because I noticed some oil and was pulling the engine anyway.
13. spark plugs/wires/dizzy cap and rotor
14. I also changed the intake gasket and water seals because of leak.
The first thing I did, after I got the car, was an oil change. then I Did the front breaks. Then the oil filter and the coolant. The car was a daily driver prior to that. Very clean . Sigh. I spent about a year and a half hunting one down. 90% of the are modified/broken / in **** condition. I really wanted one with a sunroof and that was really hard to find . So the driver side fender being smashed in Is just infuriating and im not having any luck finding one locally, ( ok lies, I did find one but it's damaged too)

UGGHHHH


Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
Glad all worked out for you. Whenever you have a driveability problem-on any car,1st thing to be investigated is maintenance items:filters,plugs,cap,rotor,etc. I know how you feel regarding damage to your car. Have owned my car for 25 years without putting a scratch on it,girl runs stop sign,tried to avoid her... Her insurance co. tried to total my car, took months of persistence,lots of pictures of the car,working my way up the chain to supervisors to management. They eventually agreed to pay amount dictated by 3 different bodyshops which i was glad for-but wish never happened in 1st place. Keep after her ins. co,get repair estimates,take pics,stay on them-to them it's just a 35 year old car...
Shame, you have such a clean car. and is true, the guy at the body shop was like, oh this is an old car, i don't think it's worth repairing. I kinda wanted to tell him that " old car" was mechanically superior to half of the econobox tin can their shop fixes every day.

Last edited by Frogman; 08-11-17 at 05:33 PM.
Old 08-11-17, 05:26 PM
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.

Fun fact, the light still goes up and down with ease

Last edited by Frogman; 08-11-17 at 05:34 PM.
Old 08-11-17, 07:31 PM
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Yes I was pissed,was hard to control my anger. We drive these cars on roads with other people,some who shouldn't be driving and need to be extra vigilant but... The other fender you found,is it less damaged than yours-yours is crinkled pretty good.
Old 08-11-17, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GSLSEforme
Yes I was pissed,was hard to control my anger. We drive these cars on roads with other people,some who shouldn't be driving and need to be extra vigilant but... The other fender you found,is it less damaged than yours-yours is crinkled pretty good.
​​​​​​​It has a ding on the exact same spot mine is smashed in and the bottom is smashed in on the New one where the paint is textured . There were 6 parts that showed up online in junk part databases , 4/6 places I called no longer had the parts . The place I got it from kept telling me they had a RX-7 in the junk yard and had to go check . They never called back but I decided to go since it was near me. Black Dragon only had right side fenders . Sigh .




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