I just bought an RB Air cleaner assembly, But It may be missing the stud that bolts down the top cover.

I was wondering if any one of you guys that has one could take a picture of it, So I can figure out how to make one.

Thanks in advance, Matt

 

I got that same kit, but the stud supplied isnt long enough if you want to use a K&N filter, it would fit super tight and would squeeze the center of the assembly down with the nut. So what I did was get a piece of "all thread" stud and a nut (nylon locking) to fit, cut to lenght, and pulled out the center screw of the carb, welded my all thread to it, and am good to go.

I tried finding metric all thread so that I wouldnt have to weld it, and could use the RB supplied coupler nut at nut for the top (which sucks anyway, its not a nylon locking nut), but I could not for the life of my find a metric stud that would fit, so I had to weld.

 

It should be a black threaded piece and a brass piece.

IF you don't have it just call up RB and they'll send you one. They're cool. I ordered my assembly when my blockoff plate was already packed and just being carried out the door. They were nice enough to toss in the air cleaner assembly and still get it to me on the date originally spoken for the blockoff plate.

 

Well I am using a K&N So I guess I am going to have to use team teamzzyzx Idea.

Thats funny that it didnt fit though, I mean why would they make it so short, I mean they should know that not everyone is going to use their Foam Filter

I am back at school now, so I dont have my welder with me which kinda blows :[

 

They probably make it short to be used with THEIR air filter, which is foam on the ends where as the K&N's are rubber. The foam will collapse easier than the rubber, which means it will fit in a smaller space. The K&N is also slightly taller than the Racing Beat filter

 

I read that the foam filter flows better than the K&N does...

 

but the K&N probably fliters better. I have a K&N in mine and, although i didn't see any real performance gains from it, i'm happy knowing that I have a good filter element between my engine and the elements.

 

I've seen lots of cars use the RB filters. They are really soaked in oil (thick oil) out of the package, so they pickup EVERYTHING. All the ones I see in cars have debris build up. I say K&N, cant go wrong with 1,000,000 warranty.

 

ya, i had one, got sick of it being all plugged, so I hit it with some non-chlorinated electronic cleaner, and re-oiled it with some 3 in 1 oil. I still think that the k&n will work better

 

Matty,

Maybe I put mine together wrong but I just used the supplied stud as an extension, not a replacement. It came with a long "coupling nut", a regular nut, and the threaded stud.

I put the coupling nut on top of the original stud then screwed the new stud onto that. Then I put the foam filter in, put the cover on, and used the regular nut to secure it.





DD

 

^^^That will work for the foam RB filter, as it is shorter than the K&N filter. That was my problem I ran into using the supplied RB stud and nut. If the supplied stud was like .5" longer it would work for both filters. Guess Racing Beat did this on purpose to get everyone to use their filters, haha.

 

teamzzyzx,

Can't you "unscrew" the original stud a little more and tighten it's nut (before coupling) to get the height you need? Or is that still not long enough?

DD

 

No, that wont work, becuase the nut you see that you loosen is FIXED to the shaft. I guess you could throw some washers around it to give space. I just used my parts car shaft, welded a stud on, got a locking nut (one thing racing beat didnt use) and was good to go.

 

The Racing Beat FOAM filter is the best buy for a filter out there IMO!

Foam is thick, so it traps in layers, and it flows like a paper filter, which is more than a K&N. Plus recharge kits are only $5 compared to $15 for the K&N one. Plus the filters themselves are only $15 as the K&N are $50ish.

Comeon!

 

Well I bought it used, and he threw in a new K&N to sweeten the deal, So there is no point in going a different route.

I am going to go the hardware store tomorrow and bring the stud from the middle of the carb with me, and see if I can get a coupler nut and then a threaded stud and cut it to length.

 

I am just using the filter that came with the kit, but even then the stud with the threads was barely long enough to fit. I had to unscrew it just to get the wingnut to start to screw on it, so it barely sits inside the top of the carb.

 

screw the original carb stud out using the coupler and supplied stud until the whole assembly is long enough. then tighten everything alltogether. could work, in theory.

 

Thats what I did at first, I unscrewed both screw out of the coupler a few turns, just enough to get the nut on top started. Then i marked it and threw some strog lock tite in there. Assembled and torqued the top nut a few turns past hand tight, which sunk the center as the nut was squeezing it. This tension, and the lock-tite were what I thought to be good enought. Then a few days later, probably 35-45 miles driven since install, I was getting gas and toppin of the oil, when i saw there was no nut, stud or coupler. My first concern was that it went into the carb. OH ****!!! I thought, but the car was running fine. Got home, compression test, took the manifold off, FOUND NOTHING. In the mean time, I had a nother hardware set coming from racing beat, and being in SoCal myself I got it next day. I then took the air filter off, and checked if it was possible for the stud and or coupler to fit, and thank GOD it wasnt, there was no way.

My theroyis that the coupler vibrated loose, and the said tension from the "hat" used the nut and stud assembly as a projectile shot upward toward my hood, untimately falling onto the road.

Then I welded the aforementioned all thread stud to my carb stud, and used a nylon locking nut.

 

Yes, well I talked to midwest 7's last night, he said that he did infact find the stud. Thats good becuase then I can use that as a starting platform to making my own. I was thinking if I could find a coupler nut, so that I cac screw it on the carb stub, then attach my cut to length threaded piece, I should be good to go!

I should hopefully get it by end of this week, So I will update you guys to let you know what I ended up doing.

 

Well I went to Stines (a local version of Home Depot)

And picked up a coupler nut, 100mm of threaded bolt, and a couple of hex nuts and a wing nut to top it off with

Cost me under 5 bucks.



The thread sticks out to much for my liking, it dosnt hit the hood, but I just dont like it. Nothing a little dremel action cant fix.

Here is what I made, I put 2 nuts at each end to make sure it doesnt try and rattle loose.


I will paint the top black, to match the engine bay a lil more. I wish it was white with the RB logo on it, but I got it filter and all for 50 bucks so I cant complain!

 

Glad to see you got it fixed, and inexpensively too. Looks nice!

DD

 

Thanks,

Let me just say, WOW!

I took it out for a spin, It has so much DEEP Throat to it now when those secondarys open up, it sounds like a BEAST!

It was just begging for that stock air cleaner to go!

 

Should I throw in a Linda Lovelace reference here or are you too young?

DD

 

Lol, Im to young to have seen it, but I have heard of this movie you speak of!

I didnt even notice! lol

Edit: I am downloadin it now, it better be good! lol

 

anyone have a K&N part number for a filter that works with the RB filter assembly? there has to be one out there.