Bronze Idler Arm Bushings
02-07-08, 09:01 PM
#2
FB+FC=F-ME
You can make a simple little heatshield that bolts to the idler body.
I did that,and with my S5 turbo VERY close to the idler I never melted the plastic bushings.I went to R&P steering about 2 years later and the idler was still fine.
Ive also heard of a heavy duty Moog replacement idler that has solid bushings or perhaps even actual bearings.
I did that,and with my S5 turbo VERY close to the idler I never melted the plastic bushings.I went to R&P steering about 2 years later and the idler was still fine.
Ive also heard of a heavy duty Moog replacement idler that has solid bushings or perhaps even actual bearings.
02-07-08, 11:21 PM
#3
You can make a simple little heatshield that bolts to the idler body.
I did that,and with my S5 turbo VERY close to the idler I never melted the plastic bushings.I went to R&P steering about 2 years later and the idler was still fine.
Ive also heard of a heavy duty Moog replacement idler that has solid bushings or perhaps even actual bearings.
I did that,and with my S5 turbo VERY close to the idler I never melted the plastic bushings.I went to R&P steering about 2 years later and the idler was still fine.
Ive also heard of a heavy duty Moog replacement idler that has solid bushings or perhaps even actual bearings.
Available from Mazdatrix part #MOOK9369
http://www.mazdatrix.com/hsteer1.htm
02-08-08, 01:00 AM
#4
Hells no......Rockauto to the rescue 53 VS 70 DOLLARS?! http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,7328
02-08-08, 03:45 PM
#7
Thanks for the input. ISC doesn't have the bronze bushings anymore : (. PM me if you have a pair you want to sell.
Delrin is stiffer than the OEM material, but I'm afraid it might melt from the heat. It melts at 347 deg F, which is lower than Nylon NSM.
I don't know about the Mazdatrix / Moog part. It looks good, but it has rubber, which might succumb, too.
Which leaves the heatshield -- good idea, but my car's a turbo and the plumbing for my manifold and wastegates runs so close, I don't know if I'll be able to put a very effective one in there.
Delrin is stiffer than the OEM material, but I'm afraid it might melt from the heat. It melts at 347 deg F, which is lower than Nylon NSM.
I don't know about the Mazdatrix / Moog part. It looks good, but it has rubber, which might succumb, too.
Which leaves the heatshield -- good idea, but my car's a turbo and the plumbing for my manifold and wastegates runs so close, I don't know if I'll be able to put a very effective one in there.
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02-08-08, 04:55 PM
#9
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i have the moog part on my car. very much more beefy. it has like some kinda locked ball joint hinge to it. its a great replacement in my opinion.
edit: iscracing is a great company to work with. its a shame that it looks like they're going to stop making 1st gen products.
edit: iscracing is a great company to work with. its a shame that it looks like they're going to stop making 1st gen products.
02-08-08, 05:29 PM
#10
i have the moog part on my car. very much more beefy. it has like some kinda locked ball joint hinge to it. its a great replacement in my opinion.
edit: iscracing is a great company to work with. its a shame that it looks like they're going to stop making 1st gen products.
edit: iscracing is a great company to work with. its a shame that it looks like they're going to stop making 1st gen products.
.As for ISC -- I think they stopped making FB parts a long time ago, and they've been selling leftover stock.
Nice wheels!
02-08-08, 08:03 PM
#12
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i have the moog part on my car. very much more beefy. it has like some kinda locked ball joint hinge to it. its a great replacement in my opinion.
edit: iscracing is a great company to work with. its a shame that it looks like they're going to stop making 1st gen products.
edit: iscracing is a great company to work with. its a shame that it looks like they're going to stop making 1st gen products.
I also have the Moog idler arm, and it is definitely more beefy than the original. Couln't say if it will stand up to heat any better though. And yes, it is much cheaper to purchase from Rockauto.
ISC is moving over to strictly Miata parts from what I understand. I believe they were the original producers of the adjustable rear spring perches, which Respeed has taken over now. That's why I mentioned, if there is a part that is needed for RX7s that cannot be found, talk to Billy and maybe Respeed will pick it up for us...
02-08-08, 11:37 PM
#13
FB+FC=F-ME
An airgap makes a BIG difference in keeping heat from transferring from one item to another. Add to that a sheild to prevent radiant heat transfer,and your idler should be OK.
I literally had only 1/2" between my wastegate bulge and the idler arm.With an aluminum heat sheild that was just big enough to cover the idler body,my bushings survived for several years with no problems.
I literally had only 1/2" between my wastegate bulge and the idler arm.With an aluminum heat sheild that was just big enough to cover the idler body,my bushings survived for several years with no problems.
02-08-08, 11:48 PM
#14
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I agree with that the heatshield idea, it sounds very good and it will probably work...
As for the Bronze Bushings... if you are really that intent on getting them, either find a friend who's a machinist or get a machining shop to make you the bushings, they're basically metal doughnuts... how hard should it be?
As for the Bronze Bushings... if you are really that intent on getting them, either find a friend who's a machinist or get a machining shop to make you the bushings, they're basically metal doughnuts... how hard should it be?
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