My Bro has 2 FB's 1985 for sale one has a 13B with a set of Dellortos another is a 12A with holey carb & intake with a silly flowmaster exhaust loud as hell ya know the motor blew that wishy washy flowmaster muffler the FB with the 13B with the dellortos he want's $1500 and the 12A with the Holey he wants $1000 but he says he will negotiate with anyone who is truely interested. Here are a few pic's of both of the cars including motor shots

this is the one with the 13B




Heres the one with the 12A & Holey carb







They both Run & Drive not turn on & sit like most other FB's that are being sold lol

 

[B]Bump Bump trying to get anyone interested to see it who wasnt online today

 

No interest

 

Series 2 or 3?

 

would he sell just motor from 13b?

 

I'm interested in the 12A

 

IBTL

two things:
1) WRONG SECTION
2) Overpriced. The 12a car is beat to hell. is it a 13b swapped into a car with the 4X110 bolt pattern? If it is, WHY? Why not start with a -SE?

 

why is it that noone can figure out the proper way to plumb the OMP lines to the Holley without drilling holes in the damn thing?

 

More importantly, who in their right mind would put a beehive oil heater on a 13B?

 

Is the 13B car drivable?

 

Its actually pretty common especially in the cars I've seen from PR. Its a simple install when building a 4-port 13b. For a SP 12a or 13b theres absolutely nothing wrong with that set up. Oh and its not and oil heater.....its an oil cooler!

 

i actully prefer the front mount cooler.

 

Damn, it's really sad that people would let them get in such bad condition. It would probably cost at least $10,000 each to restore. Hope you find someone to fix them up.

 

In general, at least 2 reasons:
1. If you don't want the sunroof, (or other options like electric windows and rear wiper)
2. if you want an S2, for the interior (dash design and color choices) and lowering-friendly suspension points.

Reasons may not apply in that case, since it looks like an S3 and cant tell if it has sunroof or not.

 

lol...I've seen worse looking cars on here! I actually like the 13b car.

 

You call it what you want. I call it a heater.
Before I swapped my '83 from a beehive oil heater to a FC front mount, I used an infared heat sensor. Oil line from the front cover 143F. Oil filter 173F. Therefore, the oil was HOTTER after going thru the beehive, hence, I will call an oil heater.
Of course, that hot water flowing out of the oil heater, flows into the lower radiator hose, where it flows right back into the engine, totally bypassing the radiator
Of course, the beehive will cool the oil under extreme conditions where it reaches temps higher than the coolant temps. However, it cannot cool it any lower than the coolant temp (normal is 180F) which is also elevated under extreme driving conditions.
A front mount is far better suited for a SP 12A or 13B any day of the week.

 

I've agree with most of what you stated however FMOC doesnt get my vote because I know of a few who lost there engine due to leaks in the hose or fittings while driving and didnt know it until it was too late. Dont get me wrong I'd rather have a FMOC but the beehive will do just fine for most! I'm sorry you call it a FMOH.....lol

 

FYI............I've seen drag cars with no oil cooler....crazy huh?

 

Actually, the beehive *may* work just fine, if someone was to reroute the supply and return hoses. Drill a new fitting in the cool side of the water pump housing, and return the water to either the rad or top rad hose. Done that way, it would not only cool the oil far better than it does with hot water, but would also have the added bonus of having the hard metal oil line. In fact, I considered modding the water lines on mine, but aquired the FC front mount free. Free is a price that I never turn down, as evidenced by the fact that I have a complete non-running FC that only cost me the time, effort, and fuel to pick it up.
When I swapped to the FMOC, I made new custom hoses for it. The SA/FB front mount's have those pesky, easy to crack fittings. The FC cooler uses banjo bolts, and are not as prone to cracking the fittings, and leaking.
Only other drawback to the beehive, aside from hotter oil, if the cooling system was not maintained well, I have seen a few that have leaked oil into the coolant. Oil pressure = ~60PSI. Coolant pressure = ~13-17 PSI. Corroded water piping inside the beehive, leads to oil in the coolant.