Bridgeport Carb.......Opinions
So I got two cornors now! 
The"newer" style Holley are much easier to tune the the dinosaurs Racing Beat sells. 
11-11-07, 11:38 PM
#31
okay, i'm not your dad, or your best friend or your minister so i'm going to try to stop myself before i start to feel like i'm preaching. however, the bottomline is you're going to have to tune this thing for your break-in period, and then you're going to have to tune it again when you add the turbo to the mix. there are computers that can't even compensate for certain VE changes. have you ever a Gen II's stock computer try to deal with a bridge? so you have to use something that you can tune. no way you're going to get a free pass with carbies and dizzies.
my point is you're going to have to make changes. period. and those changes may mean having to pull the carb off the car and pull it apart to change things, then reassemble - or have someone do it for you. even if you have the carb prepped before using it, you will more than likely still have to make changes when you're running boost.
if you're doing this yourself, then get whatever you're most familiar with. if you're doing this for the first time, then i really feel (my opinion) that a Weber is the best choice. (1) they are easy to disassemble/reassemble. (2) parts are everywhere. (3) support for rotaries is everywhere. for me, except for parts availability thing, i haven't found it to be the same for Holleys.
someone mentioned it before, and if you don't already have a tuner, you might want to contact RotaryShack.
my point is you're going to have to make changes. period. and those changes may mean having to pull the carb off the car and pull it apart to change things, then reassemble - or have someone do it for you. even if you have the carb prepped before using it, you will more than likely still have to make changes when you're running boost.
if you're doing this yourself, then get whatever you're most familiar with. if you're doing this for the first time, then i really feel (my opinion) that a Weber is the best choice. (1) they are easy to disassemble/reassemble. (2) parts are everywhere. (3) support for rotaries is everywhere. for me, except for parts availability thing, i haven't found it to be the same for Holleys.
someone mentioned it before, and if you don't already have a tuner, you might want to contact RotaryShack.
11-12-07, 06:38 PM
#32
Okay. That sounds like a good statement. I like easy things LOL. What would you recommend Weber style that will be excellent N/A but still have the ability to be boost prepped(I will send it to Robert for that)? Any advantages going side draft as opposed to down draft?
11-13-07, 03:39 AM
#33
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If you do not want to spend too much money then take this guys advice, modify the nikki carb. If you have money and want to run it better, the 48 IDA is no doubt the best choice.
11-13-07, 06:02 AM
#34
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A properly modified Nikki well cost him more than a Holley. So will a Weber. A good'ole Holley will be cheap and the jets and accessories are easy to find. Tuning the newer style Holleys is MUCH easier than tunning most other carbs.
11-14-07, 09:00 AM
#38
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+1 million on the 48 IDA.
(i think i know where you can find one?
)
by far your best choice for the application..
for your turbo application.. are you planning blow-through??? or draw-through???
(i think i know where you can find one?
)by far your best choice for the application..
for your turbo application.. are you planning blow-through??? or draw-through???
11-14-07, 07:42 PM
#41
to properly tune a nikki carb, you need to add air jets onto the emulsion tubes, like what paul yaw used to do.
to get more hp, you'll need chokes much larger than stock.
to answer your first question, i have a dellorto 48 dhla and lake cities manifold on my 12a full j bridge. it is very easy to tune.
the long ushaped manifold for weber dcoe is too long for bridgeport n/a, which want a shorter manifold like ida or lake cities/atkins rotary. it will still run and make smiles, but not at full potential. once you add boost then the hole equation changes and rotaryshak has done that successfully.
the weber ida is the de facto carb for this motor, and can be boost prepped.
the larger the bore size of the carb, the higher up the rpm range the powerband moves. 51ida peak torque is 1500rpms higher than 48ida. so the motor has to be built to spin at higher rpms.
with a turbo bridgeport, you have to upgrade the trans, driveshaft, and diff to take all that torque. are you ready to spend money doing that too?
to get more hp, you'll need chokes much larger than stock.
to answer your first question, i have a dellorto 48 dhla and lake cities manifold on my 12a full j bridge. it is very easy to tune.
the long ushaped manifold for weber dcoe is too long for bridgeport n/a, which want a shorter manifold like ida or lake cities/atkins rotary. it will still run and make smiles, but not at full potential. once you add boost then the hole equation changes and rotaryshak has done that successfully.
the weber ida is the de facto carb for this motor, and can be boost prepped.
the larger the bore size of the carb, the higher up the rpm range the powerband moves. 51ida peak torque is 1500rpms higher than 48ida. so the motor has to be built to spin at higher rpms.
with a turbo bridgeport, you have to upgrade the trans, driveshaft, and diff to take all that torque. are you ready to spend money doing that too?
11-14-07, 08:10 PM
#42
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Is the car gonna be used for the track or the strip? If strip than sorry to say Yaw doesnt now musch about that (so I hear) However if a track car is what you seek than Yaw carb or Sterling may be the way to go. I never understood why such talent was never utilized more than it is (strerling and his carbs) but whatever. I still say Holley is the way to go.
........ but
11-14-07, 08:37 PM
#44
With it being N/A, I'm going to leave the driveline stock and will slowly gather up the pieces for when the turbo goes on. I will use a Turbo II tranny and a Ford 8.8" rear end with a custom driveshaft. I know this project will be big money but I'm looking mainly for the cheapest route to get her back on the road after the motor build and start breaking it in. I'm almost thinking of for the break in and until the turbo is ready, to actually keep it below it's full potential N/A so I can get used to how the car will act with the bridge and then have a bigger power jump with the turbo. The reason I bring up the Nikki is because I can have the work done to it very cheap, at least that's my conseption but I will double check. So which manifold do you guys think I should ultimately go for? Links would be awesome
11-16-07, 02:27 AM
#48
I know I'm probably going to be laughed at or something but I don't know a whole lot about turbos. How are you guys turboing carbed engines? Your not putting the forced air into the carb are you, I didn't think the seals in the carb could take that? Please enlighten me without too many laughs!
11-16-07, 02:33 AM
#49
That's correct. There's what's called a carb hat that sits ontop of the carb barrells that forces the pressurized air into the carb. The carb must be prepped for the boost. That's what's called a blow thru set up. There's also a draw thru set up which takes the boost in at the manifold at the proper angle to suck the fuel thru the carb
11-16-07, 03:20 AM
#50
Just turn up the boost!
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boosted nikki's kick *** but i don't go much over 300rwhp with them 
oh and they work just great on bridged engines i prefer holleys but the nikki's are problem free, just a little lacking in the hp dept.
oh and they work just great on bridged engines
i prefer holleys but the nikki's are problem free, just a little lacking in the hp dept.