1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Bought a 1981 FB for really cheap

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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:21 AM
  #1  
Kasmiur's Avatar
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From: Colorado
CO Bought a 1981 FB for really cheap

sounds like title to a rotary horror movie. But its the start of my entry into RX7's.

Plot, Motor siezed. Middle of the night in 20-25F degree weather after driving 100miles on the highway. They stopped for a moment where it idled for a bit then died. Wouldn't jumpstart.


Background, Owner said he got it from someone else a while ago and some nut located between the flywheel and the transmission might have gotten loose and fell to lock up the motor he fixed that and rebuilt the motor and it worked for about 6months since.

I have average mechanical ability, have done a engine swap of a inline 4 years ago and little bits here and there. This is my first entry into the rotary motors and have been a member of the board and read up on it quite a bit beforehand.

Character,

1981 rx7, Automatic transmission 98K miles with some issues.

http://kasmiur.net/rx7/nocap.jpg <--- big file to show detail
I think the open bolts on the left circle is for AC or something. And the paper towel as a cap for the oil:-( There is oil in the motor did not take note of exact level but I think it was 1/2inch to 3/4 inch on the dipstick or so,

Action: I tried manually turning the engine using a socket and cheater bar couldn't get it to budge one bit(really cold out so didnt want to spend too much time in the cold so did not remove sparkplugs. Next time will remove plugs and try turning it that way) tried turning clockwise by accident and couldn't get a good angle to do counterclockwise. After thinking about it now I realize counterclockwise was the direction I should've went.


So I'm looking for possible thoughts on what else I can check. I'm ok if the motor is bad and it is a rebuild as I figured spending 700-800$ on a motor. But before I work on purchasing a motor I want to see if I can ressurect this thing. (if I do have to purchase a motor anyone have recommendatations they could PM me? Is it better to do kit with complete parts or is snagging one out of salvage yard a better option(note closest salvage yard with chance of having a 12a would be 2-2.5hr drive there then back as I live in middle of nowhere.

random pictures to share as hey its my first and most likely not my last.

http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx701.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx702.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx703.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx704.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx705.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx706.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx707.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx708.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx709.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx710.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx711.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx712.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx713.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx714.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx715.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx716.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx717.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx718.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx719.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx720.jpg
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx721.jpg


not too worried about cosmetics however the headlight, paint, bit of rust in the rear wheel wells, front bumper, Didn't look underneath for rust but didnt spot any obvious bits in the engine bay.

eh.. 300$

Last edited by Directfreak; Dec 1, 2008 at 03:50 PM. Reason: imbed picture into post
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:50 AM
  #2  
orion84gsl's Avatar
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Be sure to pull the storage bins behind the seats out and check the seam of the floor and fender for rust. This is really the one and only known spot for rust on these cars. It is caused by Mazda's failure to use sealant under the control arm mount, and leaving 2 holes on the mount open for water and grime to get in between the plate and body, thus rusting it. You probably won't be able to spot it on the outside. It can be fixed with some thicker metal and a welder.

Those two studs are for an AC compressor, however chances are your car just didn't come with it. All the cars came setup for it, just a matter of the trim and options level of the buyer. You'll also have the AC condenser under the dash. Also get a new oil fill cap. Oil, paper and a hot engine bay don't exactly play well together.

When you get the engine pulled read up on the rebuild process and crack it open and see if it can be saved. You may just need another rebuild, or maybe just some parts are broken or out of spec. You could very well save it, so don't jump the gun on buying another one unless you plan to do an engine swap anyway.

Also, maybe it's just my computer, but your picture links aren't working.

Good luck.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:09 AM
  #3  
Kasmiur's Avatar
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From: Colorado
CO bah late night typing

Its what I get for not double checking.

http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/198rx715.jpg
All of my url's are missing a 1 after the 198
So should look like
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx715.jpg
Can't edit my orginal post for some reason

As for the oil cap... is all the rx7'caps interchangeable?
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:17 PM
  #4  
RX-7 Chris's Avatar
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most mazdas use the same oil cap.

Where in CO are you?
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:51 PM
  #5  
Directfreak's Avatar
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From: 3OH5
Originally Posted by Kasmiur
Its what I get for not double checking.

http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/198rx715.jpg
All of my url's are missing a 1 after the 198
So should look like
http://www.kasmiur.net/rx7/1981rx715.jpg
Can't edit my orginal post for some reason.
You can't edit your posts after 15 minutes have elapsed.
I went ahead and fixed the links in your original post for you.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:11 PM
  #6  
Kasmiur's Avatar
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by RX-7 Chris
most mazdas use the same oil cap.

Where in CO are you?
sterling co... near nebraska aprox 2hrs from denver.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:45 PM
  #7  
RX-7 Chris's Avatar
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Wow That Is Far Out There
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