Yes I have the 7's only kit. I did't know they did't make it any more.

The P/N I have for my Calipers is not on Outlaw's web site so I don't know what the bore sizes are. FYI my P/N is 170-3795.

 

The air duct for the brake cooling is very important for track days and road racing, but to use it you must limit the lock to lock turns of the steering wheel. The problem is that the hose will smash into the front swaybar. Be sure and check cooling duct/sway bar clearance thru the full up and down range of motion of the strut. On a track only car, this is not a problem, since you only need 2 turns lock to lock to get around any road race track. On a street car or an autocross car, you need all the tight turning ability you can get, so it will be difficult to get the 3" cooling ducts to clear everything and have tight turning ability too.
On my street RX-7 I don't run cooling ducts.
On my road race GT RX-7 I do run 3" cooling ducts, and I have to limit turning radius by installing longer stop bolts on the back of the control arms.

 

VERY nice upgrade you have built up there. Top notch quality as well from what it looks.


I did a cooling rig like that on my crx. Not near as fancy, but it went on with ease. I actually used the nossle off a shopvac that I mounted into the bumper and ran back with SCAT hose. A few hose clamps and rivited sheet metal later it was forcing a bit more air into the brakes. While I wouldn't trust it for open track use, it worked great for keeping the brakes from fading at an autocross event. By the end before I would be starting to get a bit, and this removed that.

Love self made stuff.

 

whats the stopping power on this

 

I think if you would bother to read the entire thread, you would notice that his front to rear bias has not changed even though he used the gsl-se rear rotor caliper combo. this means that it is the exact same as it was to start with (or the same as a GSL-SE)

Read think and read some more, then ask intelligent questions

.....

 

LOL... A smackdown hand delivered all the way from Japan just for you Riceburner! You should be honored....

 

wow, looks like an awesome setup.

 

I had similar experiences, although interference with the swaybar wasn't a problem -- I routed the cooling ducts above it. I ran the ducts on a street and occasional road race car for a few years. Turning radius was compromised, but I got so accustomed to the setup, my hands were calibrated not to turn the wheel too far .

 

I had some free time and wanted to make sure I didn't have any extra cash laying around, so I fabbed up some spindle ducts to get air to the rotors. The design is based on the Mazda Comp ones that I ran with my OE brakes. The difference is that these are larger to match the larger rotors, they're made of 304SS (which I wouldn't do again, since 18GA SS warps like a sonofabitch when you weld it), and the inlet is made of mandrel bent tight radius 3" 304SS tubing instead of the fabbed mild steel sections on the Mazda Comp ducts. I relieved the caliper mounting brackets to allow the inlet tube to pass close by the spindle, which was necessary with the Mazda Comp ducts, too. All told, I spent about $100 -- $40 each for the tight radius mandrel bends from Voracious and the remainder for the scrap 304SS sheet.

 

very nicely done ... but does it hit with the stock lock to lock? If yes how much is taken out?

 

The limiting factor for turn circle is the flex hose to tire, which will be the same as it was with the Mazda Comp ducts on my OE brakes. The reduction is noticeable -- some would say unacceptable. I'm running 205/50-15 tires, so I've lost a little turn circle because of the wider meats, and the hoses intrude even more. All in all, I'd call this setup OK for an occasional driver (weekends and fun) but too much of a PITA for daily parking lot duty.

 

for more clearance, could you run dual 2" hoses and collect them right at the brake duct?

 

For running dual i think it would conflict more than if it was single, because you would be using more area behind the tires. Also adding slightly in weight, which to anyracer is a nono...

elwood, i couldn't help but notice that you have a machined metal bar right behind the strut housing, what is that for?

 

I think the idea of running a pair of 2" hoses might have some merit. More fab work, but it would help the turn circle. Weight gain would be minimal, since the hoses don't weight much to begin with.

The bar you see is the arm for my swaybar -- it's a 3 piece unit from Speedway Engineering (by way of ISC).

 

BTW -- DriveFast7, I'm diggin' your truck! Straight, clean, period color, white steeleys -- awesome! Tell me you have an 8-track in there, and you're getting my vote for President.

 

what is the advantage of that kind of sway bar versus the just bigger ones like the RB ones? Also do they still mount in the same stock position?

 

Advantages are:
1) Lighter -- since the center section is tubular (1.25" OD vs. solid that are 1.125" OD), and the ends are aluminum
2) More tuneable -- the wall thickness on the center section can be changed without affecting packaging
3) Tighter clearance -- hugs the fender well area better

Disadvantages:
1) Costs more
2) The mounts are steel tubes that must be welded to your trailing rod brackets. This means no rubber or urethane isolation between the swaybar and body -- which can be considered a disadvantage for street use, but an advantage for the track.

 

And yes -- it mounts in the stock location.

 

Mine too, plus Jimmy Carter is soft on inflation anyway.

 

Cool thanks,

I was looking if anything needs to be welded in or not. I'm trying to stay away from welding as little to keep things as reversable as possible.

 

I made some air dam ducts out of aluminum to make sure air can get in the front end. I used .065" X 3" tubing with 1/8" front plates. The mesh came from a pet barricade. I see plenty of people running brake ducts without it, but I have ugly visions of rocks rattling around inside the rotors -- rocks that are small enough to fit in the ducts, but big enough that they can't pass through the inner vents in the rotors.

I've bled and operated the brakes, and they feel awesome. Very firm pedal. I'm not sure they feel better than before, since it's been so long since I drove the car with the OEM brakes, but I'm sure they don't feel worse .

 

always amazed by your worksmanship ... you're currently one of my idols lol ... now to go get a mig welder.

 

Man!!! That looks fantastic, you really do some nice work.

If you wouldnt mind when you get the car finished it would be great if you could get some pictures with whole shots of the car and maybe a video if you have acces to a video camera. Good luck with the rest of the build.

 

I hope that pic was just for reference, cause if i'm not mistaken the rotor was on backwards. the veigns should be pumping/scooping air through them.

 

Thanks man -- I like making stuff. I debated over getting a welder about three years ago and decided not to. I was considering a TIG, and the model that was recommended to me and my usage by many professional welders was approx $2K. I did the math and figured out that it would take a looong time to recoup the investment. I have since developed a relationship with a professional whose shop is near my office. I fab parts, he welds parts, I pay him a little money. Research the machine extensively before you buy & talk to people who use it. You may be surprised what you learn -- I was.

On the other hand . . . having a welder at home is a lot more convenient and will allow you to work faster by avoiding transit time to the weld shop. There are many classes offered through weld shops, community colleges, and even the manufacturers. My professional welders all recommend you take formal instruction. Lastly, there are some pretty good instructional materials available. I have a few books (HP) that explain a lot.