Best non-Nikki set-up?
12-10-10, 08:34 PM
#51
Too old to act my age
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I've never been a fan of holley carbs.
I have a GSL-SE that has been converted to carb using the RB holley intake, but it has an edelbrock 600 (1405) carb on it. Works pretty good.
I haven't taken the time to hook up an AFR gauge yet to fully test it, in spite of the RB header having an O2 sensor in it.
A tad rich at idle, due to having the choke wired open. Once I get around to putting a choke cable on it, I can lean it back out. It doesn't spend much time at idle, once warmed up, so it's not a big issue right now.
I don't drive the car very often, but it runs quite well when I do.
The intake/carb, header, e-fan, and GM HEI ignition mods are the only things done to this car, but it sure seems to pull hard, and has excellent drivability.
I have a GSL-SE that has been converted to carb using the RB holley intake, but it has an edelbrock 600 (1405) carb on it. Works pretty good.
I haven't taken the time to hook up an AFR gauge yet to fully test it, in spite of the RB header having an O2 sensor in it.
A tad rich at idle, due to having the choke wired open. Once I get around to putting a choke cable on it, I can lean it back out. It doesn't spend much time at idle, once warmed up, so it's not a big issue right now.
I don't drive the car very often, but it runs quite well when I do.
The intake/carb, header, e-fan, and GM HEI ignition mods are the only things done to this car, but it sure seems to pull hard, and has excellent drivability.
12-10-10, 08:49 PM
#52
carb whisperer
I've never been a fan of holley carbs.
I have a GSL-SE that has been converted to carb using the RB holley intake, but it has an edelbrock 600 (1405) carb on it. Works pretty good.
I haven't taken the time to hook up an AFR gauge yet to fully test it, in spite of the RB header having an O2 sensor in it.
A tad rich at idle, due to having the choke wired open. Once I get around to putting a choke cable on it, I can lean it back out. It doesn't spend much time at idle, once warmed up, so it's not a big issue right now.
I don't drive the car very often, but it runs quite well when I do.
The intake/carb, header, e-fan, and GM HEI ignition mods are the only things done to this car, but it sure seems to pull hard, and has excellent drivability.
I have a GSL-SE that has been converted to carb using the RB holley intake, but it has an edelbrock 600 (1405) carb on it. Works pretty good.
I haven't taken the time to hook up an AFR gauge yet to fully test it, in spite of the RB header having an O2 sensor in it.
A tad rich at idle, due to having the choke wired open. Once I get around to putting a choke cable on it, I can lean it back out. It doesn't spend much time at idle, once warmed up, so it's not a big issue right now.
I don't drive the car very often, but it runs quite well when I do.
The intake/carb, header, e-fan, and GM HEI ignition mods are the only things done to this car, but it sure seems to pull hard, and has excellent drivability.
Grrrr that makes me sooo mad. My holley cost soooo much money....
540.00 for RB 465 ((tax and shipping included in that cost) Threw that sucker in the basement because it was just crap)
710.00 for 390 HP
100.00 bucks for center pivot bowls, and floats.
120.00 for moroso track baffles.
10.00 bucks for medium jet extensions. (both sides)
140.00 for QFT billet metering blocks. (+all bleeds)
200.00 for QFT dyno tune.
65.00 for high flow throttle shafts.
40.00 for AER road race needle and seats.
I think that sums it up..... Of course those are all approx. costs. You get the idea, stupid money just for reliable performance.
I should have just left it stock. I learned my lesson.
PS, dont forget: 25.00 for pump cam set, 55.00 for 50cc acc pump, and god knows how much on jets, discharge nozzles and fuel bowl gaskets.
I say again: NO HOLLEY.
12-10-10, 09:01 PM
#54
carb whisperer
12-11-10, 12:42 AM
#56
i know. i currently have one of the 4D setups, but still contemplating what fuel pump to use as i don't know how much fuel pressure it's going to need. and still need to get afr gauge and sensor cause i figure i can get a decent tune out of it that way. since i want to eventually go turbo, i'm thinking maybe i should use maf instead. i'm planning on getting another car to drive after the new yr with tax refund so i can take the 7 off the road for a little while so i can get some much needed things done, that FI setup being one of them. i've also been wanting to try an edelbrock carb for quite some time now. just can't seem to find one at a decent price.
12-11-10, 08:53 AM
#57
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If you really want to do something different, Get a RB intake and a 4 barrel throttle body with injectors. 2nd gen CAS, 255 pump and second gen ignition. Im in that process as we speak. Using a MSII as my ECU. Havnt picked up the TB or pump yet. But if you know how this stuff works its pretty simple
12-11-10, 10:18 AM
#58
carb whisperer
i know. i currently have one of the 4D setups, but still contemplating what fuel pump to use as i don't know how much fuel pressure it's going to need. and still need to get afr gauge and sensor cause i figure i can get a decent tune out of it that way. since i want to eventually go turbo, i'm thinking maybe i should use maf instead. i'm planning on getting another car to drive after the new yr with tax refund so i can take the 7 off the road for a little while so i can get some much needed things done, that FI setup being one of them. i've also been wanting to try an edelbrock carb for quite some time now. just can't seem to find one at a decent price.
And Verneuil, I suggested that like 10 posts ago or something lol.
The 4bb TBI units are pretty slick.
12-11-10, 11:58 AM
#59
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Off the shelf edelbrock I assume?
Grrrr that makes me sooo mad. My holley cost soooo much money....
540.00 for RB 465 ((tax and shipping included in that cost) Threw that sucker in the basement because it was just crap)
710.00 for 390 HP
100.00 bucks for center pivot bowls, and floats.
120.00 for moroso track baffles.
10.00 bucks for medium jet extensions. (both sides)
140.00 for QFT billet metering blocks. (+all bleeds)
200.00 for QFT dyno tune.
65.00 for high flow throttle shafts.
40.00 for AER road race needle and seats.
I think that sums it up..... Of course those are all approx. costs. You get the idea, stupid money just for reliable performance.
I should have just left it stock. I learned my lesson.
PS, dont forget: 25.00 for pump cam set, 55.00 for 50cc acc pump, and god knows how much on jets, discharge nozzles and fuel bowl gaskets.
I say again: NO HOLLEY.
Grrrr that makes me sooo mad. My holley cost soooo much money....
540.00 for RB 465 ((tax and shipping included in that cost) Threw that sucker in the basement because it was just crap)
710.00 for 390 HP
100.00 bucks for center pivot bowls, and floats.
120.00 for moroso track baffles.
10.00 bucks for medium jet extensions. (both sides)
140.00 for QFT billet metering blocks. (+all bleeds)
200.00 for QFT dyno tune.
65.00 for high flow throttle shafts.
40.00 for AER road race needle and seats.
I think that sums it up..... Of course those are all approx. costs. You get the idea, stupid money just for reliable performance.
I should have just left it stock. I learned my lesson.
PS, dont forget: 25.00 for pump cam set, 55.00 for 50cc acc pump, and god knows how much on jets, discharge nozzles and fuel bowl gaskets.
I say again: NO HOLLEY.
I didn't catch that when I took off the top to lower the floats, so I had to pull that rod assembly back out. Removing the rods takes ~ 10 seconds.....
BTW, the car was a freebie. The PO had installed the ignition system, but had some wires reversed. It would run, barely, and he was being transfered. He was more interested in getting his FD back home, and since this car wouldn't run well enough to make the ~1500 mile trip, he gave it to me, rather than send it to a salvage.
Fixed the ignition and minor carb issues, and it's run pretty darn good for the last couple years.
12-11-10, 01:47 PM
#60
carb whisperer
Yep, straight out of the box. Had one minor issue that had to be resolved though. One of the metering rod/plunger retainer clips was installed incorrectly, so that plunger was binding at the top of of the bore.
I didn't catch that when I took off the top to lower the floats, so I had to pull that rod assembly back out. Removing the rods takes ~ 10 seconds.....
BTW, the car was a freebie. The PO had installed the ignition system, but had some wires reversed. It would run, barely, and he was being transfered. He was more interested in getting his FD back home, and since this car wouldn't run well enough to make the ~1500 mile trip, he gave it to me, rather than send it to a salvage.
Fixed the ignition and minor carb issues, and it's run pretty darn good for the last couple years.
I didn't catch that when I took off the top to lower the floats, so I had to pull that rod assembly back out. Removing the rods takes ~ 10 seconds.....
BTW, the car was a freebie. The PO had installed the ignition system, but had some wires reversed. It would run, barely, and he was being transfered. He was more interested in getting his FD back home, and since this car wouldn't run well enough to make the ~1500 mile trip, he gave it to me, rather than send it to a salvage.
Fixed the ignition and minor carb issues, and it's run pretty darn good for the last couple years.
12-12-10, 01:50 AM
#61
rogue, a free 7? damn can't beat that!
12-12-10, 11:11 AM
#62
carb whisperer
no. i would do away with the top mounted injectors(if that's possible) and make a plate to mount the injectors to bolt between the intake and block. it would be kinda like direct injection. then i'd have to find out whether it's using hi or low impd injectors. and thanx for the response bout the fuel pressure. don't really know if what i have is for big or small block. but since it has the built in pressure reg i can use the higher pressure one. i've wondered if a gslse pump would have enough pressure to supply it. a friend has one he'd probably let me have.
rogue, a free 7? damn can't beat that!
rogue, a free 7? damn can't beat that!
Also, check the size of the injectors, the big block had 72 pph and the small block had like 48-55 pph or something close to that.
You ever thought about a pusher pump?? After taking my stock 12A pump off and trying a holley red I was pretty disappointed with the result. I didnt try it, but Advance auto parts has small universal "airtex" brand in lines, one that puts out 4.5-7.0 psi, and one that puts out 7-15 psi. Theyre both under 50 bucks, and dont look aftermarket at all (I like my stuff to be stealthy, AND simple)
12-12-10, 01:52 PM
#63
Lives on the Forum
I've run a Sterling carb for years now, and couldn't be happier with the performance of it. Actually getting your hands on one, now that's the real challenge. Look for one used, they do show up once in a while.
Otherwise, simply stripping the carb of emissions and adding the mechanical secondary mod can do a lot for the stock Nikki. 75% of what you see when you look at the stock carb can be removed. There are actually a couple of very good threads on this.
Going either of those routes allows you to retain the stock intake, stock air cleaner housing, OMP assembly, fuel pump (a Sterling will run just fine on the stock pump, but if you want to dial in peak performance then you need to upgrade it), etc.
But really, talking carbs is like discussing a man's taste in women; some like blondes, some like brunettes, some like big ***** while others require a woman with a great ***. Guys will argue all day over **** like that.
Best of luck with whatever you decide...
.
Otherwise, simply stripping the carb of emissions and adding the mechanical secondary mod can do a lot for the stock Nikki. 75% of what you see when you look at the stock carb can be removed. There are actually a couple of very good threads on this.
Going either of those routes allows you to retain the stock intake, stock air cleaner housing, OMP assembly, fuel pump (a Sterling will run just fine on the stock pump, but if you want to dial in peak performance then you need to upgrade it), etc.
But really, talking carbs is like discussing a man's taste in women; some like blondes, some like brunettes, some like big ***** while others require a woman with a great ***. Guys will argue all day over **** like that.
Best of luck with whatever you decide...
.
12-12-10, 02:53 PM
#64
Try the new FAST TBI. The injectors and fuel rails are out to the sides of the air horn, so blow through wouldnt be as risky.
Also, check the size of the injectors, the big block had 72 pph and the small block had like 48-55 pph or something close to that.
You ever thought about a pusher pump?? After taking my stock 12A pump off and trying a holley red I was pretty disappointed with the result. I didnt try it, but Advance auto parts has small universal "airtex" brand in lines, one that puts out 4.5-7.0 psi, and one that puts out 7-15 psi. Theyre both under 50 bucks, and dont look aftermarket at all (I like my stuff to be stealthy, AND simple)
Also, check the size of the injectors, the big block had 72 pph and the small block had like 48-55 pph or something close to that.
You ever thought about a pusher pump?? After taking my stock 12A pump off and trying a holley red I was pretty disappointed with the result. I didnt try it, but Advance auto parts has small universal "airtex" brand in lines, one that puts out 4.5-7.0 psi, and one that puts out 7-15 psi. Theyre both under 50 bucks, and dont look aftermarket at all (I like my stuff to be stealthy, AND simple)
12-12-10, 03:00 PM
#65
carb whisperer
The last time I identified the TBI injectors on those it was as easy as taking it to advance auto parts to check the PN on the airhorn/actual injector PN.
And yes, kent I know its an opinion thing, but im just throwing the info out there that I didnt know about when I bought my holley. If had known about all that nonsense, I would have just gone weber or sterling first. Where is Sterling anyways?
12-12-10, 09:10 PM
#68
Thanks for all the great info. It seems several people got something out of this thread. For me, I am going to keep the Nikki and just have it stripped and rebuilt by someone. I do most of my own work, but I've got some little hands that like to raid the garage and mess with my stuff.
12-13-10, 07:49 AM
#69
TEAM MAZDA
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+1 for the Holley 600 on a stock port 12a
use the double pumper bowls and blocks. Plug the power valve. Upgrade the fuel pump to maintain 6psi. Then just tune the carb jets and convert to manual secs. You will easily beat stock v8 mustangs all day long.
Which is much obviously more expensive then the stock carb, but more performance also. How fast can you afford to go?
use the double pumper bowls and blocks. Plug the power valve. Upgrade the fuel pump to maintain 6psi. Then just tune the carb jets and convert to manual secs. You will easily beat stock v8 mustangs all day long.
Which is much obviously more expensive then the stock carb, but more performance also. How fast can you afford to go?
12-13-10, 11:41 AM
#70
I know he hasn't posted here much for quite a long while because of issues with a certain former vendor who will remain nameless.
Echoing what others have said, Sterling doesn't do carbs as his 8-5 Mon-Fri job. He has a regular job, a family to support, and he does these carb rebuilds on the side. For that reason, it sometimes takes a while for carbs to get done. Trust me, it's worth the wait. The fact that the demand for them outstrips his ability to produce them by so much that he has to temporarily stop taking orders should speak to the quality of the product you're getting!
If you truly have been waiting 15 months, get in touch with him. From what I've seen he's always been more than willing to work together with his customers to fix issues.
Jon
12-13-10, 03:58 PM
#71
carb whisperer
+1 for the Holley 600 on a stock port 12a
use the double pumper bowls and blocks. Plug the power valve. Upgrade the fuel pump to maintain 6psi. Then just tune the carb jets and convert to manual secs. You will easily beat stock v8 mustangs all day long.
Which is much obviously more expensive then the stock carb, but more performance also. How fast can you afford to go?
use the double pumper bowls and blocks. Plug the power valve. Upgrade the fuel pump to maintain 6psi. Then just tune the carb jets and convert to manual secs. You will easily beat stock v8 mustangs all day long.
Which is much obviously more expensive then the stock carb, but more performance also. How fast can you afford to go?
Oh and why would you take out the power valve? You realize that unless you are floor boarding the car or racing you can just jet down right?? Oh, and if my custom 450 cfm STILL didnt have the velocity down low on a 12A for a good signal, what makes you think a cavernous 600 would??
And stock mustangs will just beat you in the corners when your stalling out and flooding.
It also takes a LOT more than tuning jets....Your forgetting the fact that you have to COMPLETELY change the fuel curve via emulsions, air bleeds, power valve restrictions, and idle restrictions. After all that it would still idle at over 1100 rpm. (if tuned correctly)
LOL at your whole post.
..
12-13-10, 07:43 PM
#73
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the weber IDA + p port idles @900rpm!
its tough to beat the sexy italian...
its tough to beat the sexy italian...
