I'm trying to determine the best path to increase power on my SE. I know changing the 13B to a turbo is the ultimate, but I'm looking to avoid an engine swap and use what I already have in place.

What do you guys recommend? I'm sure that a RB exaust is the first step... what else? Thanks...

 

Well, with a 13B, you wouldn't necessarily have to swap the entire engine to go turbo.

Beyond that, yes - the exhaust is the first step in getting a happier engine.

 

and ditch the rat's nest - click the link above. one of my favorites is the electric fan. the unit out of a sable/taurus fits perfectly.

 

No rat's nest in his 13b.

Zachstylez

 

i) Cold Air Cone intake.

ii) Injectors professionally cleaned (there are only 2 so they're probably dirty and have poor spray patterns).
Clean and lube the entire Throttle body while you're at it.

iii) Pineapple Racing Sleeves.

iv) Ignition Coils. (Either a CD system or replace your old leading coil).

v) Reduce drag forces (Check your brakes...make sure you don't have warped rotors or seized calipers).

vi) Synthetic diff fluid. (Good to change..some vendors claim a 2% increase in driveline efficiency).

You could also experiment with your ignition timing if you want a different feel. You're not really making it more powerful but a lot of people find RBeat's timing recommendations enjoyable.

<F>

 

My understanding is that to do the swap (such as putting in the Turb II engine), a tranny change and rear end needs to be a part of the package as well. Or am I missing something here?

 

change the engine management?

 

After the RB exhaust and everything else said above...replace the stock EGI and go with RBs Dellorto or Holley carburator setup for an approximate additional gain of around 15 to 20 crank horsepower. Your SE engine will be pretty well maxed out by then with bolt-ons.. of course theres also N2O

 

Where can you get these? I did not see them on the Mazdatrix site.

How do they improve HP?

Thanks,
BTC

 

www.pineappleracing.com

With everything a stock port SE engine will top out at around 180hp. Not bad for a 2600lb car. If ya want more you will need to go with a larger ported motor, or forced induction...............or both

 

Thanks for the link. Based on their website, it looks like they just smooth air flow. At least if I am going to take off the manifold, I'll be making an improvement.

On an unrelated topic...how do you like your Suspension Techniques springs? Are you running them both front and back?

-BTC

 

2600 pounds?, does the SE really weight that much more then a GS ?, mines 1700 pounds no sunroof

 

Wow you must have nothing in there! According to http://beyondtheredline.fd3s.net/1978.html, the GS was around 2300 lbs.

 

The curb weight of my 85 SE is 2500lbs. I have every option except leather and A/C. A/C adds 60 lbs according to Mazda. (5-speed manual).

<F>

 

That's about right; I think the book on the SE is 2560 lbs. My SE has every option except leather and P/S... any guess on how much power steering adds in weight?

 

my gs has no options, and it says right in the door jam that its 1700 pounds no sunroof or anything in it

 

You're in Canada? Must be 1700 imperial pounds. Seriously, the GS is well over 2200 pounds...

 

While on this topic
how much hp do you think ill make with this setup on my GSL-SE
Rebuilt Streetport motor
Full Streetport RB exhaust
Lightened flywheel
No AC, Air Pump, and an E Fan
2nd gen intake mod
Underdrive pulleys
New Street/Strip clutch
Im thinkin 200hp at the fly maybe more

 

That can't be right... my 85 S (base) has NO options at all, and I'm sure it's over 2000lbs... I 'll check and post back later...

 

SE's are easy to modify to correct some of the things that can lead to lower performance than new. Some of these have been identified in posts prior to mine, but I'll go into some detail here to assist you with modification of your SE to get back to stock power estimates in your 20 year old car;

1) Injectors - be sure that your fuel injectors are in good shape. If you've never replaced them, they are 20 years old and sure to be spraying a poor pattern and very likely no longer with 5% of flow to each other (industry benchmark). RC Engineering rebuilds, flow balances, and tests injectors for cheap and is money well spent to improve quality of idle, throttle response, and acceleration - cost; about $50 including shipping.

2) Cold air intake - the SE's had the air filter box drawing air from in front of the radiator. The 84SE had a much longer 'tube' to draw air through, which was shortened in 85SE's to reduce intake of water when driving through deep puddles. In any case, installation of a K&N filter will allow it to breathe more easily, and if you cut down your 84 tube, it will reduce the air intake length, thereby increasing flow. Also, if you redirect the intake tube to the front bumper, this will impart some 'ram air' effect to the intake. The shortest path will flow the most air.

3) New plugs/wires/cap and rotor - this is a simple fix that will improve overall performance at all RPM. Plugs should be new and clean, wires should not be corroded at all, and cap and rotor will ensure good spark. Cost; about $50 all up. If you can afford it, you might consider new coils, as they are 20 years old and might as well be replaced to build reliability, cost; $100 (Crane PS20's x2)

4) New struts/shocks - when you said performance, you didn't specify engine only. New struts/shocks are cheap, easy to replace, and restore ride quality. Cost; about $300 for Tokico blues or Koni non-adjustables. Note: front struts are specific to model year and SE's are different than 81-85 non-SE.

5) New door seals - restore ride comfort and reduce wind noise making the car feel much more solid, cost; $60 via Mazdatrix or VB.

6) New springs - if you like the lowered look that your sagging SE springs have now, you can have the same ride height but slighly higher rate to control body lean in corners. Cost; about $400 through Racing Beat (my recommendation).

7) Exhaust system - I listed this last, since it may not be available if you must pass emission inspection. This will improve performance more than any other mod, but is expensive and takes time to install. Cost; about $500 for header, presilencer, and muffler; Racing Beat.

8) 6-ports - time and labor intensive, but ensures that you get 'variable valve timing' with your SE's 13B. The '6'-ports must move freely with exhaust backpressure so a thorough cleaning will restore engine performance. Cost; materials and cleaning supplies only.

Good luck - there's a lot of work that can be done, and is very rewarding to do this work yourself.

 

maybe im just ******* stoooopid and read the wrong thing , ill check again, and take a picture if im sure im right, i thought it was messed when i read it, i was like uh.... its gotta weigh more then that.... but thats what it says, i onno... 4 friends and me lifted the whole car and moved it, cuz my clutch was messed and i couldnt use reverse less it was all or nothing so we just picked my car up and put it in a parking spot so i didnt have to parrelle park

 

yeah maybe i am stupid, does 2875 sound better ?

or am i reading the wrong thing again ? haha

 

Lightweight flywheel is the best mod i've done to my car. Pulls REALLY well, really helps out with top end. When you hit about 4k, it pins you back all the way to redline. My flywheel is 15# so im sure if you go lighter, the effects will be much better. Great for the street.

 

Jimmy...how much did the CP racing light flywheel run you? What clutch did you go with?

Cheers

<F>

 

Please explain what this is, I haven't heard this before. I have seen "cold" air boxes for the 2nd Gen, but the standard 2nd gen come with a plastic airbox that looks very similar to the SE box.

Thanks,
BTC