I know there has been alot of talk about what oil is best. What oil burns, etc etc.. Well this is a solution I have helped install on a friends RX7. Mine is next.

The whole problem with the "4 stroke oil" is the fact that rotaries employ oil injection, which came to my surprise (unless I didnt look hard enough) that nobody else has posted a fix like mine.

Now we know that 4 stroke oil doesnt burn, and therefore clogs up over time. Here is my solution..:

Use 4 stroke oil as usual for "sump oil". Synthetic, non-synthetic, who cares. This will lube the eccentric shaft, and the sides of the rotors.

Now the fun part. Oil injection. Remove the 2 thin oil lines that carry the oil from the sump, to the oil injector system. Then, you need to install a new resovoir to hold more oil. And we want this nice and high in the engine bay also...

Run new oil lines from the newly installed resovoir to the oil injector system. After that it's the simple matter of finding a nice "2 stroke" oil to put in your resovoir..

WAY cleaner engine, and you also get that slight "turbo smoke" from the exhaust.. Pretty kewl..

 

has been done many times. you can actually get an adapter that fits between the block and the OMP and keeps the sump oil in the sump and has a seperate pickup for a 2 stroke for the injection.

Or you could always pre-mix, get rid of the OMP and at least you know that as long as theres fuel theres gonna be oil, no chance of clogged lines etc, plus it lubricates your fuel pump (in theory)


good to see more aussies joining this forum

-James

 

Yeah the OMP adapter is available from rotaryaviation.com .

I don't know what car you have, but I know that my 84GS' OMP got its oil from where it was attached to the side of the engine, it doesn't have lines "going down to the sump".

Mine has two plastic lines going from the OMP to the carburetor.

Can you post pics? Maybe it's an Australian model thing, but mine definitely gets its oil from the same place it gets its drive.

Jon

 

I agree with verpinicus, at least I always thought that the omp got its oil from the same place it's mounted, but since i'm somewhat new to the forum, the adapter is news to me and I am very interested in that set up. I have always wanted to do this and did not know about the adapter. THANKS!!!

 

there's a oil gally that feeds the OMP from the cover and that's it's source from the engine.

 

Sounds like a lot of effort in order to get 3 steps behind premixing.

And I'll go on record as having taken apart too many engines, and all the OMP's get their oil from the pan. If you routed the two plastic lines to a container of 2-stroke, you just cut off the oil injection to the engine and you may want to hurry up and tell your buddies to quit driving their cars before the engines blow (not that all that much oil gets into the engine from the OMP, anyway).

 

I've been running the rotaryaviation metering pump adapter for going on two years in my 12A '85. Works very well and consumes about 150 to 200 ml per tank of gas, depending on how hard I drive it.

This adapter bolts right onto the front cover where the metering pump mounts, and contains its own drive extension so that when you bolt the metering adapter on after it the drive from the engine continues to drive the metering pump. This adapter also acts as a block-off plate so that engine oil stays inside the engine where it belongs. Instead, 2-cycle oil (best is tcw-3 type) is gravity fed to the pump from a separate reservior (supplied by you) through a length of fuel hose. It is then fed through the metering tubes to the engine in the normal manner.

The adapter costs $76 U.S. (for the 12A; it's around $90 for one that fits the 13B) and comes with two long mounting bolts to replace the stock omp bolts, which aren't long enough to mount the adapter AND the pump. You supply everything else--- the reservior and associated mounts, hose, elbow and clamps; and two metering pump gaskets from Mazda at about $3 each.

A couple words of caution: First, if your present metering pump leaks, it will leak even more once it's fed a steady diet of 2-cycle oil. Replace all three o-ring seals inside the pump using only the Viton type. The two end seals are 13/16" dia. X 1/16" cross-section, and the one behind the actuator pin is a smidgen larger in diameter than 1/4" (it's a metric size) X 1/16" cross-section. The two larger o-rings will fit into the diamond-shaped grooves under the end caps.

Second, make sure all materials used are impervious to oil. This means using only fuel hose for delivery from the reservior to the omp, do not use sealant of any kind (clamps will be enough), and the reservior should be metal or an old power steering fluid reservior--- NOT a washer fluid reservior or anything else made of plastic.