Hey All,

I did a search and came up with some good info on replacing the wheel bearings (or rather, installing bearings in my new rotors), but I still have a few questions that the search left un-answered.

1. There was mention that both the inner and outer bearings sit in a "race" which I'm assuming is that circular piece with the slanted inner side that I got with my new inner bearings. Can the race for the outer ones be removed and reused? I only bought inner bearings because I read that those had to be pryed out, but if I'm switching my old outer bearings to the new rotor can I rescue the old race, or do I need to buy new ones?

2. For the inner bearings, I was wondering which *way* it goes in. I am probably going to check on the old rotors when I take them off, but I thought I'd ask here first.
Looking at the rotor from the "underside", do I install the race and then just have the bearing drop into it, small side down? or do I want to install it so that the bearing is on the inner side, with the small side pointing up? (picture the rotor sitting on your lap, with the wheel attaching where your legs are... that's the way I'm looking at it).

I don't know how else to describe these, so please bear with me

3. And for installing the race and inner bearing, do you need a press or anything? I figure I'll probably take it up to my mechanic and have him help me install them, but what's the best way to press the new inner bearings in the back?

Thanks guys

Jon

 

The race for the outer bearing should come with the bearing itself. (Mine did)
Don't take the race out of a rotor unless you plan on replacing it =)
(the bearing & race is only like $10)

(I'm actually going through the same thing right now, hehe)

On a side note, if the outer bearing has never been replaced, I'd recommend doing it-- mine was shot and replacing it made a huge difference in the ride of the car. (I thought a wheel was out of balance but it was the bearing)

 

The outer bearings on mine seem fine. I had the rotor off two weeks ago and they look alright. The race came with the inner bearing that I bought new, but since I'm not buying new outer bearings, I'm wondering if those, too have a race that cannot be reused. If so, that means I *have* to go and buy new outer bearings. My funds are running REALLY low, so buying them is a pain, but I'll VISA it if I have to.

Here in Canada, the inner bearing and race together cost 25$ per wheel. So it was like 50 + tax for the inner bearings alone. You can see why I don't want to replace the outer ones unless I think that there's something wrong with them. The bearing itself looks fine, I didn't actually look at the race though.

Jon

 

I'm sure the race would be perfectly fine...

From what my Haynes manual says though, you basically pry the race out of the rotor to remove it... and it recommends only doing that if you're replacing the race.

If you could get it out without damaging it I imagine you'd be okay to use the same ones.... So perhaps try it and then order them if you need to?

 

Yeah,

From the way the heynes says it, I thought it was talking about the *inner* race only. And by the way you guys were talking on the forum, the races seemed to be ignored completely, and it was just the "inner bearings have to be replaced if removed, but the outer ones can be removed and replaced fine"

I assumed that meant the race too (when I finally figured out what the race was!)... Let's hope I don't have to buy new outer bearings! Oh well, if I have to, I will.

Jon

 

Good luck man...
I just blew $130 on the rest of my parts today, hehe

Lemme know how it works out

 

I need new wheel bearings (mine tick and rattle ), caliper rebuild kits, new rotors, and all kinda of other junk ...

~T.J.

 

Check out Advance Auto if you have them in your area-- I got some pretty good prices on the rotors and bearings from them.

(Gotta think about calipers sometime though, hehe)

 

If you bought new rotors look closer at them and see if they have races already. Most rotor/hub assemblies come with races so you don't have to try to reuse the old ones. If you still have to get the old ones out try to push them out from the opposite side not pull them out. They are pressed in so it takes a lot of effort to pop them out and get them straight as well.

 

The old rotors are toast, so I don't *have* to get the old races out, unless one of them would be needed in the new rotor... In which case, I still don't have to get it out because that'd destroy it pretty brutally, so I'll just buy new ones.

RotorMotorDriver - unless your calipers are in REALLY good condition for a rebuild, don't do it man. I paid 35$ Canadian each for mine. Sure they're rebuilt, but they're done with exacting precision, and come with a year warranty!
Just grab a new/pro rebuilt set, and it'll save you MANY hassles in reusing your old ones.

mazdaspeedrex - no unfortunately, the new rotors don't have races in them already. Too bad for me. Maybe had I payed the arm and leg to get them from Mazdatrix they would, but I just got them through a local part store, so they're just standard rotors.. nothing special. I don't plan to do Pro7 with my car or anything, so I should be alright.

enigma - What didja buy?

Jon

 

I work at a parts store and our "standard" rotors as you call them come the same way as factory, which is what Mazdatrix uses. So if the ones we sell don't have the races, the factory ones wouldn't either. I just had some in for an -se but I didn't look that close to see if they had the races. If you got them at an independant parts store you might try a chain such as Canadian Tire. They might have more choices at a better price as well.

 

Hehe, nope and nope.

I guess I didn't mention that the rotors, bearings, pads and shoes CAME from Canadian Tire :P

No choice except on the pads. "cheapo" or "premium" were my choices... I went "premium"

Jon

 

Sometimes you just can't win. Good luck on the brakes though.

 

I've just done pretty much the same thing; buying new rotors and then wondering how to decipher the whole race/bearing thing out of the old rotor.
My bearings looked ok after they dropped out, the removal of both races required a lot more effort. I was worried about getting them out and re-using them in the new rotor because of Haynes cautionary note and the experience of ones on the board, but so far so good.
Working from the inside of the rotor out, I tapped the race with a hammer and screwdriver - there's 4 cutout slots visible to allow the punch to sit on the race - work around the race so it doesn't go out of square and jam in there. It's a tight fit and will take a while to get out. You will have a sore neck and back if you're doing it on the garage floor like me.
The races looked ok when they were cleaned up and went straight into the new rotor - it too was veeery time consuming but they seated in nicely. The proof wil be in the driving one I've done the left wheel!
I rebuilt the calipers on mine with new seals direct from Mazda - straightforward enough if you take time and use compressed air to blow the piston out like is recommended - follow Haynes on this one!

Good luck
Dave

 

I ended up giving in and just buying the outer bearings. I took heed of what someone said, and since I'm replacing practically *everything*in the brake system. I'll be picking them up in a little bit.

How do you guys seat the races into the grooves in the new rotors properly? I know a screwdriver or soft chisel can be used to take them *out* but what about putting them *in*?

Jon