solaxyfox

Well, its time. Within a week or two the engine lab should be open and I'll be bringing my Rex in to have her engine pulled and taken apart. I'll look over the rotor housings and seals, and if I can get away with just a seal kit for $110, I'll do that, and may invest in a streetport template and street port her.

If her housings are all messed up, I'll be hitting my local mazda recycler and investing in a so called 'rebuilt' engine... although I'm pretty sure it'll just be pulled and cleaned up.

After all that is done, and the oil no longer oozes from the block overnight, I'll be pulling out the smog equipment in my engine class, and seeing what I can do to eliminate some of the smog piping while still staying smoggable (yay for California's not-so-clean air laws!). I'll also be trouble shooting the intermittant lighting problems, fixing the bent side panels, and trying out the paint how-to in the Haynes manual.

My only question for you guys, as I'll hopefully be posting pictures and updates in this thread later, is about how long does it take for a 'first timer' to remove a 12A longblock w/ tranny? This will be my first engine pull ever... although I've exchanged trannies before.

And any tips for things to watch out for that the Haynes won't cover? And just how hard is it to switch to an under-radiator oil-cooler?

This will be a fun school year of Rex revival... I'm hoping by summer to have her all set to make the guys in the cheap-looking rice honda's jealous.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

I did an engine swap. When I took out my engine (first time also) it took me about 5 or 6 hours to do. I had to figure out what went where, how to disconnect, etc. Then the pull and set (swap) only took me 6 hours. Granted, I unhooked the second engine, pulled it, then set it in the other car and bolted the tranny and engine mounts in that 6 hours. Hooking everything all back up as far as wiring, exhaust, etc. took a few more hours. I would say a good solid day to get it out without breaking anything.

My .02

solaxyfox

For a while now, I've been reading 0 gas at the gauge in my gauge cluster. Well, as the engine class is still unable to take my car in, I spent my morning class with the tire off, and fixing up the Level Sending unit. It was very dirty, and was not sending a signal. I brushed up the outside, and put a little extra pressure on the resister contact by readjusting it against the spring...

Considering how beat up it was, getting the required 3 ohms at full, and 98 ohms at empty wasn't bad. I figured it was decent.

But the gauge didn't do anything. I tested the ground side to known good ground, and I was only getting 2.3 millivolts! There wasn't even a single millivolt left over after the wire grounded itself out on the X-15 ground... so tomarrow, I start digging under the dash, to see if a wire or connector is toast under the dash.

The saga continues.