aux ports opening?
#1
wheres the water goin?
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aux ports opening?
i just replaced my eng in my car with a different SE engine and i used my same LIM and im not sure if i put the sleeves in right or not. how do i know if they are opening up or not i have them set to an RPM actavated switch to open up at 4800 rpm's i know the actuators work but how do i know if the sleeves are in there right? i cant feel a big jump in power is there another way to tell?
any help would be great,
Charles
any help would be great,
Charles
#3
wheres the water goin?
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im just using an airpump that you plug into a cig lighter that has a pressure pressure gauge on it. just pull the pressure gauge off and put a vacuum nipple on it to bleed off some of the air that way your not pushin 30+ psi to the actuators. im also using a air pressure gauge that i got from home depot to regulate the psi even more and it only takes about a sec for them to fully open.
i think that i did them right i didnt know that i had to line them up with the marks on the LIM gasket until after install but i did look and see what way they opened and lined the sleeves up that way but im still not 100% sure
i think that i did them right i didnt know that i had to line them up with the marks on the LIM gasket until after install but i did look and see what way they opened and lined the sleeves up that way but im still not 100% sure
#4
.
In the Outline of Construction, page 4B-12 points to the pin in the auxiliary port valve. The bosses on each side of the pin are cast, AND are different in size. ALSO, the opening in the rod is machined with a slight step to fit OVER the small boss and the pin. They call this a 'reverse installation prevention device'. I tried and it does seem to fit only one way, UNLESS you were to SPREAD the actuator rod open further.
( I have the sleeves and manifold on my kitchen table -it's like 20F in the garage -too cold to paint in there!)
Page 4B-51 of the Factory Svc Manual shows that you have to make sure the 'big end', that is , the larger of the 2 pin bosses, is 'down' towards the gasket mark ( 8 O'clock for the rear and 5 O'clock for the front. Then the actuator arm should be at horizontal.
Otherwise it will be 180 degrees out of wack. If you could install it wrong, it might be 10% open in that orientation, then it would move closed as the actuators operate.
I'll be using the std. air pump to actuate mine.
DId you feel a jump in power on the old engine? I have not felt that pleasure yet - my 6PI system was all dogged up by previous owners.
In the Outline of Construction, page 4B-12 points to the pin in the auxiliary port valve. The bosses on each side of the pin are cast, AND are different in size. ALSO, the opening in the rod is machined with a slight step to fit OVER the small boss and the pin. They call this a 'reverse installation prevention device'. I tried and it does seem to fit only one way, UNLESS you were to SPREAD the actuator rod open further.
( I have the sleeves and manifold on my kitchen table -it's like 20F in the garage -too cold to paint in there!)
Page 4B-51 of the Factory Svc Manual shows that you have to make sure the 'big end', that is , the larger of the 2 pin bosses, is 'down' towards the gasket mark ( 8 O'clock for the rear and 5 O'clock for the front. Then the actuator arm should be at horizontal.
Otherwise it will be 180 degrees out of wack. If you could install it wrong, it might be 10% open in that orientation, then it would move closed as the actuators operate.
I'll be using the std. air pump to actuate mine.
DId you feel a jump in power on the old engine? I have not felt that pleasure yet - my 6PI system was all dogged up by previous owners.
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