Assorted 'about to reinstall a rebuilt engine' questions from a newbie.
02-27-22, 01:35 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Assorted 'about to reinstall a rebuilt engine' questions from a newbie.
Thanks for the huge help so far. This site has proved invaluable both with direct answers and buried gems. Engine is now rebuilt to the point where we are installing oil pump, front cover and oil pan today. Getting the engine back in to the car is starting to look scarily real. Just spent a a few fretful minutes staring in to the empty engine bay and have some questions for the guys/girls that have done this before. (Just so you know where we are at in case it colors the answers... we left carb, rats nest, water pump etc in as much of an original condition and disassembled as little as possible, the idea being to limit the amount of things we can screw up and give us a better chance of an engine that runs. (Car ran great before rebuild, only rebuilding to fix multiple leaks). Once the engine is back in and running, we will then work on vacuum hose replacement etc piece by piece. Also working with my teen son (its his car) and he has limited budget and attention span!
- What to replace before reinstall of engine. Am already replacing upper and lower radiator hoses, throttle cable and heater to radiator hose... cause that item broke / got cut / obviously rotten. What else should I be replacing NOW before I reinstall the engine. Engine mounts?
- Anyone have a link to a video for the steps that come after testing end play all the way to first engine start. Everything I can find seems to stop around the oil pump, or goes a little beyond and includes front cover and oil pan. Would LOVE to find something that covers water pump, rats nest, carb etc to a similar detail to the Atkins Rotary download.
- Gaskets for the remaining items. Oh my Lord, what a rabbit hole that proved to be. Did a bunch of reading and refined it down to using Atkins Rotary rebuild kit gaskets everywhere with Gasgacinch both sides allowed to dry 10 mins both sides before installing. Only exception is oil pan where using Permatex Right Stuff, no gasket (even though I have one). Any alarm bells there?
- We bent one stud and broke one stud clean off the exhaust manifold to tail pipe connection. Forgive me if i have the terminology wrong... its the first connection after the manifold to exhaust pipe. My plan is to try to drill out the studs on the manifold and through bolt the connection. Doing this as assuming that as a California street car any replacement manifold will fail smog. Its the NONE thermal reactor version, the one with a cast manifold that looks like something out of a Fritz Lang movie. Or is there an affordable, smog-able manifold available?
- My son suggested a swear jar for when we crane the engine back into the bay and wrestle it back in to place. I anticipate a very full jar. What to spend that small fortune on?
Sorry for being long winded, but I know from reading this forum that you get better answers that way.
Thanks!
-
- What to replace before reinstall of engine. Am already replacing upper and lower radiator hoses, throttle cable and heater to radiator hose... cause that item broke / got cut / obviously rotten. What else should I be replacing NOW before I reinstall the engine. Engine mounts?
- Anyone have a link to a video for the steps that come after testing end play all the way to first engine start. Everything I can find seems to stop around the oil pump, or goes a little beyond and includes front cover and oil pan. Would LOVE to find something that covers water pump, rats nest, carb etc to a similar detail to the Atkins Rotary download.
- Gaskets for the remaining items. Oh my Lord, what a rabbit hole that proved to be. Did a bunch of reading and refined it down to using Atkins Rotary rebuild kit gaskets everywhere with Gasgacinch both sides allowed to dry 10 mins both sides before installing. Only exception is oil pan where using Permatex Right Stuff, no gasket (even though I have one). Any alarm bells there?
- We bent one stud and broke one stud clean off the exhaust manifold to tail pipe connection. Forgive me if i have the terminology wrong... its the first connection after the manifold to exhaust pipe. My plan is to try to drill out the studs on the manifold and through bolt the connection. Doing this as assuming that as a California street car any replacement manifold will fail smog. Its the NONE thermal reactor version, the one with a cast manifold that looks like something out of a Fritz Lang movie. Or is there an affordable, smog-able manifold available?
- My son suggested a swear jar for when we crane the engine back into the bay and wrestle it back in to place. I anticipate a very full jar. What to spend that small fortune on?
Sorry for being long winded, but I know from reading this forum that you get better answers that way.
Thanks!
-
02-27-22, 07:39 PM
#2
- We bent one stud and broke one stud clean off the exhaust manifold to tail pipe connection. Forgive me if i have the terminology wrong... its the first connection after the manifold to exhaust pipe. My plan is to try to drill out the studs on the manifold and through bolt the connection.
02-28-22, 09:50 PM
#4
This courtesy my RE Guru at Rob Golden at PineappleRacing.com:Recommended Engine Break-in Procedure
Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine: new builds have little oil in there ANYWHERE!! This is an important step prior to first start.
Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.
Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine. All oil lines should be attached. Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.
Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.
Check for leaks.
The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.
After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
Check oil level.
Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.For the first 500 miles of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm. Turbocharged engines should run minimal boost during the first 500 miles.
Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
From 500 to 2000 miles,
- gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle. Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil. Running an engine low, or out of oil, will void your warranty.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
Oil Recommendations:
Manufacturer: any quality brand of oil is OK except Pennzoil. I dislike this one brand for buildup reasons.
Startup Oil Weight: For startup use a dead dinosaur(mineral based) oil in a 0w20 through 10w30.
Post Startup: For non-turbo engines we like thin oils like the 0w20-10w30 for all applications where the oil temp is kept below 220*F. Virtually all stock or near stock applications will not have an issue with oil temp.
INSTALL TIPS;
MATING ENGINE to TRANNY – tips:
tilt the motor down while the tranny is facing up to line up the motor and tranny, get the 19" socket along with long bolts handy. spinning hte pulley helps but again, I've done it over a hundred times so it is easy for me to say.
If you do it this way then go to the hardware store and buy some much longer bolts that secure the transmission to the engine. Screw one in the bottom (either corner) and the other in a opposite corner into the engine. You cut the heads off of the bolts so that they work as a alignment point. You don't have to slot the bolts as you would get ones that are more than long enough to get a bite on to remove. Attach the transmission to the engine at the opposite corners with the correct bolts then remove the long ones.
I've done it countless times with a clutch alignment tool. It should slide right in with a little encouragement by turning the e-shaft as you're mating them.
MORE FROM Rob Golden:
If you jack the trans up until it touches the tunnel it means you only have one moveable item. Make sure to put the trans into 4th to help hold the input so when you rotate the engine if necessary to get the clutch to line up, again, only one item is moving.
Do not install the front engine mount yet.
Make sure you have the long fully threaded bolt holding the rear engine hook. This acts as a guide during engine install.
It can be helpful if you have spare bolt(s) to use as guide pins. The trans to engine bolt under the starter is a good length. I cut the head off the bolt and then grind a slot so If snug, a screwdriver will remove it.
Trying to install the engine and exhaust(at the same time) on a thermal reactor car is very difficult. The exhaust will never be where you want it. If you are lucky enough to have had the exhaust studs unthread from the back of the reactor, then you can leave the exhaust just the way it is and install it after the motor is fully sitting in place. If not, either pull the exhaust to the side after unbolting at least the exhaust mount to the trans(the most rigid of the mounts). Frequently easier to unbolt the most of it. Sorry this got longer than intended, just don't worry about installing the exhaust at the time you install the engine. Doing this single handed is extremely difficult. Use gasket sealer or similar to hold the aligning/sealing ring into the back of the reactor. BTW, I have the front down pipe gaskets in stock.
If you install a complete engine with intake/exhaust, it will be very heavy on the pass. side. Use something to tie the engine level. I have used wire, a motorcycle tie down, whatever works. I go around the thermostat housings to the chain on the hoist.
Make sure the engine is hanging flywheel down about 3* when fully supported on the hoist.
The "stabbing" will be pretty easy. Once the engine is on the trans fully, install a few trans to engine bolts by hand. Install the front motor mount by hand and fully lower the engine onto the motor mounts. Now install the exhaust while you can still get a little movement from the engine if need be. Tighten the trans bolts first, then the motor mount bolts, then the exhaust.
the engine should be at about a 3 degree angle with the flywheel lower. This should get you to the angle of the trans when it is wedged against the tunnel.
Since you are going to install the intake, later, you might just want to wait on the reactor also. That way it is a very easy drop in. You can use the M8 threaded hole on the top of the center rotor housing to mount an engine hook. I take a front hook and put a 90* bend at the base. That hole is the perfect balance point.
Once the engine is on the trans with a few bolts snugged up, lower the jack under the trans and ft. motor mount install the ft. motor mount plate. Drop the engine in place. Installing the reactor onto the head pipe is easy, then install on the engine and tighten all the fasteners. Tighten the motor mount bolts and exhaust fasteners and mounts.
Stu Aull
80GS
AZ
Pre-lube the engine before starting. To pre-lube engine: new builds have little oil in there ANYWHERE!! This is an important step prior to first start.
Leave oil line loop at front cover unattached with catch pan under it.
Repeatedly fill oil adapter outer cavity with oil and allow oil to gravity feed into loop line until oil is present at disconnected end of line. Attach the oil line at the front of the engine. All oil lines should be attached. Pour oil into center passage. Gravity will allow the oil to fill the engine’s internal passages. A quicker way to move oil into the engine’s internal passages is to apply low pressure air to filter adapter and push oil into loop line. Be sure to wear appropriate safety gear and use low pressure. The oil can blow out at you around the rubber tip of the air gun.
Prevent engine from starting, then crank engine until pressure gauge shows oil pressure or until oil indicator light on dash goes out.
Check for leaks.
The above addresses only the oiling system; refer to factory manual for additional first-start precautions that may be necessary. Once Started, check for leaks while allowing engine to come up to operating temperature. Check all gauges frequently.
After engine reaches operating temperature, bleed air from cooling system as necessary per factory service manual.
Check oil level.
Allow engine to run for approximately 30 min. in neutral varying rpms, then turn off. allow the engine to cool, then change oil and filter.For the first 500 miles of driving, allow engine extra time to warm up before driving the car and do not exceed 4000rpm. Turbocharged engines should run minimal boost during the first 500 miles.
Change oil and filter at 500 miles.
From 500 to 2000 miles,
- gradually increase engine rpm and load to the point of occasionally bringing the engine rpm to 7000 using no more than ¾ throttle. Check oil level frequently during break-in. During break-in, any engine can consume a noticeable quantity of oil. Running an engine low, or out of oil, will void your warranty.
Failure to follow break-in instructions does not necessarily cause immediate engine failure. BUT we have found it will greatly shorten the life of many of the components.
For example, we have seen oil control rings loose ½ their life from lack of break-in. Consider your hard earned money and time when deciding a break-in procedure.
Oil Recommendations:
Manufacturer: any quality brand of oil is OK except Pennzoil. I dislike this one brand for buildup reasons.
Startup Oil Weight: For startup use a dead dinosaur(mineral based) oil in a 0w20 through 10w30.
Post Startup: For non-turbo engines we like thin oils like the 0w20-10w30 for all applications where the oil temp is kept below 220*F. Virtually all stock or near stock applications will not have an issue with oil temp.
INSTALL TIPS;
MATING ENGINE to TRANNY – tips:
tilt the motor down while the tranny is facing up to line up the motor and tranny, get the 19" socket along with long bolts handy. spinning hte pulley helps but again, I've done it over a hundred times so it is easy for me to say.
If you do it this way then go to the hardware store and buy some much longer bolts that secure the transmission to the engine. Screw one in the bottom (either corner) and the other in a opposite corner into the engine. You cut the heads off of the bolts so that they work as a alignment point. You don't have to slot the bolts as you would get ones that are more than long enough to get a bite on to remove. Attach the transmission to the engine at the opposite corners with the correct bolts then remove the long ones.
I've done it countless times with a clutch alignment tool. It should slide right in with a little encouragement by turning the e-shaft as you're mating them.
MORE FROM Rob Golden:
If you jack the trans up until it touches the tunnel it means you only have one moveable item. Make sure to put the trans into 4th to help hold the input so when you rotate the engine if necessary to get the clutch to line up, again, only one item is moving.
Do not install the front engine mount yet.
Make sure you have the long fully threaded bolt holding the rear engine hook. This acts as a guide during engine install.
It can be helpful if you have spare bolt(s) to use as guide pins. The trans to engine bolt under the starter is a good length. I cut the head off the bolt and then grind a slot so If snug, a screwdriver will remove it.
Trying to install the engine and exhaust(at the same time) on a thermal reactor car is very difficult. The exhaust will never be where you want it. If you are lucky enough to have had the exhaust studs unthread from the back of the reactor, then you can leave the exhaust just the way it is and install it after the motor is fully sitting in place. If not, either pull the exhaust to the side after unbolting at least the exhaust mount to the trans(the most rigid of the mounts). Frequently easier to unbolt the most of it. Sorry this got longer than intended, just don't worry about installing the exhaust at the time you install the engine. Doing this single handed is extremely difficult. Use gasket sealer or similar to hold the aligning/sealing ring into the back of the reactor. BTW, I have the front down pipe gaskets in stock.
If you install a complete engine with intake/exhaust, it will be very heavy on the pass. side. Use something to tie the engine level. I have used wire, a motorcycle tie down, whatever works. I go around the thermostat housings to the chain on the hoist.
Make sure the engine is hanging flywheel down about 3* when fully supported on the hoist.
The "stabbing" will be pretty easy. Once the engine is on the trans fully, install a few trans to engine bolts by hand. Install the front motor mount by hand and fully lower the engine onto the motor mounts. Now install the exhaust while you can still get a little movement from the engine if need be. Tighten the trans bolts first, then the motor mount bolts, then the exhaust.
the engine should be at about a 3 degree angle with the flywheel lower. This should get you to the angle of the trans when it is wedged against the tunnel.
Since you are going to install the intake, later, you might just want to wait on the reactor also. That way it is a very easy drop in. You can use the M8 threaded hole on the top of the center rotor housing to mount an engine hook. I take a front hook and put a 90* bend at the base. That hole is the perfect balance point.
Once the engine is on the trans with a few bolts snugged up, lower the jack under the trans and ft. motor mount install the ft. motor mount plate. Drop the engine in place. Installing the reactor onto the head pipe is easy, then install on the engine and tighten all the fasteners. Tighten the motor mount bolts and exhaust fasteners and mounts.
Stu Aull
80GS
AZ
The following 3 users liked this post by 7aull:
03-01-22, 10:50 AM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Oh man, that is soooooo useful. Particularly using long bolts with head cut off as guides for mating the engine to transmission. Guiding the engine back in is the part of this entire process I dread the most. Particularly as we will be doing it in the street with the neighborhood watching.
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