Arrrrrrgggggg!!!!!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
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From: Charleston, South Carolina
Arrrrrrgggggg!!!!!!
Ok, My car is from ohio so the bottom of my car is/was pretty rusty. I got most of the rust off the frame. But my suspension pieces are in pretty bad shape (rusted shut). I've been working for the past couple of weeks breaking every bolt off (Destroyed a couple but I ordered some replacements) and replacing all the parts that were too rusted to clean and re-use.
I'm down to the last two bolts and they're on tight... They're the two front lower control arm bolts that attach them to the body. I can for the life of me get them off. I got the nut off that was attached to the bolt but the bolt WILL NOT MOVE... I tried torching around the bolt and hammering it out. I'm gonna go buy an offset wrench and use a jack to push it up to make the bolt move.
I know I'm not the only person who had this problemso I would like to here some alternate suggestions on getting these bolts out that i'm overlooking.
I'm down to the last two bolts and they're on tight... They're the two front lower control arm bolts that attach them to the body. I can for the life of me get them off. I got the nut off that was attached to the bolt but the bolt WILL NOT MOVE... I tried torching around the bolt and hammering it out. I'm gonna go buy an offset wrench and use a jack to push it up to make the bolt move.
I know I'm not the only person who had this problemso I would like to here some alternate suggestions on getting these bolts out that i'm overlooking.
I always have a 3 ft piece of pipe laying around deemed a "cheat" that i put on the end of the wrench to get mucho extra leverage. I have broken ratchet heads though. Hope this helps good luck
I had the same problem with mine. The problem is the bolt seizes to the metal insert in the control arm bushing. I let them soak in PB blaster for 2 weeks and torched them multiple times, when the bolts finally spun it was actually the metal insert in the bushing ripped away from the rubber. I ended up using a cutoff wheel to cut the ends of the bolt off and getting new bushings.
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 1
From: London, Ontario, Canada
^ This
There is really no other way to do it. When you put the new parts in use anti-seize so you don't have to deal with this problem in the future. It will also keep them from seizing together, which will allow your suspension components to move as they are supposed to.
There is really no other way to do it. When you put the new parts in use anti-seize so you don't have to deal with this problem in the future. It will also keep them from seizing together, which will allow your suspension components to move as they are supposed to.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,663
Likes: 0
From: Charleston, South Carolina
That's what happened to all my sway bar end links... I was afraid of that happening. Time to get the grinder out. And trust me, Everything is getting anti seize. I do not want to go through this again...
Last edited by jshiz; Mar 23, 2010 at 08:42 PM.
^^just be glad you don't live in the snow belt. ohio winters are horrible and horrible for your car. when i get a southern or western 7 in on an ULTRA rare occasion, i feel like i hit the lottery..
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I had to do the same as coldy I tried so hard to get the darn things off but my last resort was to just torch it and just bought new bushings for it which werent that expensive and it was definately worth it. It saved time and frustration.
Die grinder with an 1/8" cut off wheel or a sawzall are your only options at this point. Problem is you can't get the PB Blaster to soak in between the steel sleeve and bolt. I have managed to get a few of them out using an air hammer with the pointed bit, but if it's rusted solid, cutting the bolt out is the only way.






i just came to alabama in the last two years. I do NOT miss snow.