Anybody seen those Euro Headlights?
01-14-03, 09:44 PM
#26
Passenger
Posts: n/a
you can get the hella h4 conversion from my work in tucson AZ, or order them from our mail order dep.
UPRacing.com
or call the number and ask for Rick, he is a freind of mine who works on the mail order side of UPR. I am the Tech. (Ben)
I have the conversion by hela and some super plasma bulbs. the housing come with h4 bulbs are around 100-150??? and the piaa bulbs I got were $80 MSRP I paid less because I work there but even at full price they are well worth the money!!! you can see almost every thing and they are not those cheap plastic things APC sells they are real glass.
I recomend them for EVERY first of seccond gen owner!
yes they sell them in the square housings too
UPRacing.com
or call the number and ask for Rick, he is a freind of mine who works on the mail order side of UPR. I am the Tech. (Ben)
I have the conversion by hela and some super plasma bulbs. the housing come with h4 bulbs are around 100-150??? and the piaa bulbs I got were $80 MSRP I paid less because I work there but even at full price they are well worth the money!!! you can see almost every thing and they are not those cheap plastic things APC sells they are real glass.
I recomend them for EVERY first of seccond gen owner!
yes they sell them in the square housings too
01-14-03, 10:25 PM
#27
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
hella is a electrical mfg. company...they make at least 10 different kinds of H4 headlights!!! some have parking lights built in, some have 2 bulbs , they have different alignment brackets(depending on what bulb your using), some have difusers(again depending on what bulb you will be using), then they even offer a left and right bulb!!! for the slolem , night driving, canyon carving , etc!! you really need to do your homework before buying them!! wich i have already done! the HID kit i purchaced is made by Phillips, it comes with a mfg. warranty for 1 year for $ 400.00 !!! it comes with all wiring, relays ballasts, bulbs moisture tight connectors , everything!! The hella bulbs i ended up that worked the best cost $ 90.00 for the set, and they fit perfectly in the rx7!!! the diffuser is mirrored to reflect the HID beam and direct it properly....you know if your bulbs are too bright because people would flash you!!wich hasnt happened to me yet!!! the lights HAVE to be aimed properly, you can see farther without affecting other drivers, its all in the equipment you purchace and how you install it !! do not buy the cheap immitation lighting!!
01-15-03, 02:43 AM
#29
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i was debating to get a real h.i.d kit for the 1st gen.. mind you its gonna be on the track a lot.. or get the H4 housing and a PIAA GT bulb... i would like to see some night shots? that would be sweet!
01-16-03, 11:23 PM
#32
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I've said it before, and I'll say it again.
BEFORE YOU UPGRADE YOUR HEADLIGHTS, CONTACT DANIEL STERN.
http://lighting.mbz.org/
Good prices, and the best service and quality. He knows EVERYTHING about headlights.
I actually have a set of E-Code 7" CIBIE's from him.
Below is an e-mail he sent me whan I initially contacted hom about upgrading my headlights.
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originaly sent by Daniel Stern (dastern@vrx.net)
Now, 7" round headlamps:
Several companies make 7" (large single round, sealed beam size type 2D1) E-code headlamps. First off, it's important to use CAR headlamps, not the motorcycle ones you sometimes find from Bosch, IPF or CPI. These are easily identifiable (they say "MOTORCYCLE" on the lens) and the beam pattern is not at all well suited to use on a double-track vehicle with low-mounted headlamps. In car units, the most widely marketed in the USA is the Hella 70476, standard H4 European-spec headlamp. (You'd also find the 70477, US DOT "Vision Plus" headlamp, which we call the "Vision Minus" 'cause...well, it's got a replaceable bulb, but it's just not that much better than a sealbeam as far as beam pattern goes, and it tends to collect water because of a badly-done drain design.) But as I was saying, the 70476 is around. I don't use it on my cars that take the single large
(7") rounds; I use Cibies. Why?
Beam patterns are better (wider, longer-reaching) on low and high beam with Cibies. The main difference, though, is that 7" round and 200mm rectangular Hellas have an irritating beam separation problem. Set the low beams where they belong, and the high beams are up in the trees without enough on-road light. Pull the high beams down where they can be useful, and the low beams are down on the bumper. I exaggerate for illustration, but the effect is to make you try to find a compromise setting where both beams are kinda OK. The Cibies do not have this problem; when the lows are correctly aimed, the highs are correctly aimed. Some folks don't find the beam separation as much of a problem as some other folks--and a lot of people who have only ever used two kinds of headlamps (Hellas and sealed beams) will swear that Hellas are the cat's pajamas. It's certainly true that Hellas are a big improvement over
"sealed bum" originals, but Cibies are just better. All Cibie 7" round
headlamps have convex (domed) lenses. Clear Lens Classic lamps have highly convex (highly domed) lenses and are generally for use in pre-1972 cars that must look "period correct", also in hot rods where styling is a prime concern, etc.
Now that we've fixed the beam pattern problem, let's talk about bulbs. Stock wattage is 60/55 (high/low). My "normal" bulbs are German-made high-efficiency 60/55W bulbs; with these, you can just remove the sealbeams, install the Cibies, aim and go with no NEED (though it's always a good idea) for uprating the wiring. Now, the E-code beam pattern, with its sharp cutoff which nullifies glare for oncoming traffic, can support higher-output bulbs without (a) glaring oncoming traffic or (b) creating impossible backdazzle for you in bad weather. Note that it is a VERY poor idea to put overwattage bulbs in with the stock headlamp wiring, which is meant for stock wattage ONLY. We see a lot of car-be-cue type messes when people try to do this. The relays/sockets/fuseholders package to do-up the wiring properly contains all heavy-duty components (dual-output 40A relays, terminal blocks, brackets, terminals, fused fuseholders and headlamp sockets) to accept heavy-gauge wire; supply your own wire from the local economy in your choice of color and length. View and print my "how-to" page at http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays for full text and color diagrams of how to do this. Now that we have good wiring, we can go to town on bulb wattage. NOTE, if you have a passenger car or other vehicle with low-mounted headlamps (lamps below the level of most passenger car drivers' eyes when seated at the wheel) you can increase both low and high beam power without causing undue glare. If yours is a truck or SUV or other vehicle with high-mounted headlamps, you will want to keep the low beams civilized to avoid dazzling other road users. "Other road users" include cops, so use your head! 100/55W bulbs can be furnished to keep the low beams civilized and still punch the next county with the high beams. I do not handle the 3rd-world bulbs you can find in the pages of JC Whitney and in lots of other places. I carry only German-made (Osram, Philips, Narva) bulbs. My policy of selling ONLY items I would use voluntarily on my own cars extends down to bulbs!
How about city lights? What is a city light? It's a European-type parking lamp, a small 5W bulb sticks through a grommet in the lamp's reflector into the lamp itself. Ground one of its wires, and run the other of its wires to the parking lamp feed. The city light illuminates the whole headlamp in a "pilot light" fashion; this makes for large-area parking lamps that WORK, and if a headlamp bulb ever burns out, oncoming traffic still sees you as a double-track vehicle. If you use the city lights to REPLACE the dim amber parking lamps common on US vehicles (which you should not do if your '68 or later American-spec vehicle does not use one bulb to handle front parking lamp and front sidemarker lamp duty) the turn signals now go "BRIGHT-off-BRIGHT-off" instead of "bright-dim-bright-dim" when the lights are on. City lights are especially useful if you have fog lamps. On foggy days, you can put on the city lights which will show other drivers exactly where your car is, and switch on the fog lamps so you can see. Note that city lights are a legal form of parking lamp in the USA. Also note that city lights aren't used on vehicles with flip-door (hideaway) headlamps.
Optional: thin-shell polyurethane impact guards to prevent the lamps being rock damaged or "sandblasted" in normal daily use. For use only on vehicles NOT equipped with hide-away (flip-up/flip-down) headlamps.
Prices at http://lighting.mbz.org/prices
Carefully pack and ship two lamps with whatever accessories you wish, $19
ORDERING INSTRUCTIONS
Please indicate:
The quantity of each item you wish
The type of shipping you wish
(UPS trackable ground shipping is standard; all UPS service levels are
available)
The address to which you want the items shipped (if different from billing
address)
Whether the UPS driver has permission to leave the parcel at your doorstep if you are not available to accept it in person.
VIA PHONE:
303-285-3482 x4983
VIA E-MAIL:
dastern@vrx.net
VIA FAX:
303-285-3482 x4983
Whatever method you use, the following information is required in order to process a credit card order:
Card type
Card number
Expiry date
Your name as it appears on the card
Billing address
Billing phone number
Please don't forget to include a note (such as a printout of our e-mail) stating exactly which items you are ordering, and where you wish them sent.
I look forward to hearing from you.
DS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
BEFORE YOU UPGRADE YOUR HEADLIGHTS, CONTACT DANIEL STERN.
http://lighting.mbz.org/
Good prices, and the best service and quality. He knows EVERYTHING about headlights.
I actually have a set of E-Code 7" CIBIE's from him.
Below is an e-mail he sent me whan I initially contacted hom about upgrading my headlights.
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originaly sent by Daniel Stern (dastern@vrx.net)
Now, 7" round headlamps:
Several companies make 7" (large single round, sealed beam size type 2D1) E-code headlamps. First off, it's important to use CAR headlamps, not the motorcycle ones you sometimes find from Bosch, IPF or CPI. These are easily identifiable (they say "MOTORCYCLE" on the lens) and the beam pattern is not at all well suited to use on a double-track vehicle with low-mounted headlamps. In car units, the most widely marketed in the USA is the Hella 70476, standard H4 European-spec headlamp. (You'd also find the 70477, US DOT "Vision Plus" headlamp, which we call the "Vision Minus" 'cause...well, it's got a replaceable bulb, but it's just not that much better than a sealbeam as far as beam pattern goes, and it tends to collect water because of a badly-done drain design.) But as I was saying, the 70476 is around. I don't use it on my cars that take the single large
(7") rounds; I use Cibies. Why?
Beam patterns are better (wider, longer-reaching) on low and high beam with Cibies. The main difference, though, is that 7" round and 200mm rectangular Hellas have an irritating beam separation problem. Set the low beams where they belong, and the high beams are up in the trees without enough on-road light. Pull the high beams down where they can be useful, and the low beams are down on the bumper. I exaggerate for illustration, but the effect is to make you try to find a compromise setting where both beams are kinda OK. The Cibies do not have this problem; when the lows are correctly aimed, the highs are correctly aimed. Some folks don't find the beam separation as much of a problem as some other folks--and a lot of people who have only ever used two kinds of headlamps (Hellas and sealed beams) will swear that Hellas are the cat's pajamas. It's certainly true that Hellas are a big improvement over
"sealed bum" originals, but Cibies are just better. All Cibie 7" round
headlamps have convex (domed) lenses. Clear Lens Classic lamps have highly convex (highly domed) lenses and are generally for use in pre-1972 cars that must look "period correct", also in hot rods where styling is a prime concern, etc.
Now that we've fixed the beam pattern problem, let's talk about bulbs. Stock wattage is 60/55 (high/low). My "normal" bulbs are German-made high-efficiency 60/55W bulbs; with these, you can just remove the sealbeams, install the Cibies, aim and go with no NEED (though it's always a good idea) for uprating the wiring. Now, the E-code beam pattern, with its sharp cutoff which nullifies glare for oncoming traffic, can support higher-output bulbs without (a) glaring oncoming traffic or (b) creating impossible backdazzle for you in bad weather. Note that it is a VERY poor idea to put overwattage bulbs in with the stock headlamp wiring, which is meant for stock wattage ONLY. We see a lot of car-be-cue type messes when people try to do this. The relays/sockets/fuseholders package to do-up the wiring properly contains all heavy-duty components (dual-output 40A relays, terminal blocks, brackets, terminals, fused fuseholders and headlamp sockets) to accept heavy-gauge wire; supply your own wire from the local economy in your choice of color and length. View and print my "how-to" page at http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays for full text and color diagrams of how to do this. Now that we have good wiring, we can go to town on bulb wattage. NOTE, if you have a passenger car or other vehicle with low-mounted headlamps (lamps below the level of most passenger car drivers' eyes when seated at the wheel) you can increase both low and high beam power without causing undue glare. If yours is a truck or SUV or other vehicle with high-mounted headlamps, you will want to keep the low beams civilized to avoid dazzling other road users. "Other road users" include cops, so use your head! 100/55W bulbs can be furnished to keep the low beams civilized and still punch the next county with the high beams. I do not handle the 3rd-world bulbs you can find in the pages of JC Whitney and in lots of other places. I carry only German-made (Osram, Philips, Narva) bulbs. My policy of selling ONLY items I would use voluntarily on my own cars extends down to bulbs!
How about city lights? What is a city light? It's a European-type parking lamp, a small 5W bulb sticks through a grommet in the lamp's reflector into the lamp itself. Ground one of its wires, and run the other of its wires to the parking lamp feed. The city light illuminates the whole headlamp in a "pilot light" fashion; this makes for large-area parking lamps that WORK, and if a headlamp bulb ever burns out, oncoming traffic still sees you as a double-track vehicle. If you use the city lights to REPLACE the dim amber parking lamps common on US vehicles (which you should not do if your '68 or later American-spec vehicle does not use one bulb to handle front parking lamp and front sidemarker lamp duty) the turn signals now go "BRIGHT-off-BRIGHT-off" instead of "bright-dim-bright-dim" when the lights are on. City lights are especially useful if you have fog lamps. On foggy days, you can put on the city lights which will show other drivers exactly where your car is, and switch on the fog lamps so you can see. Note that city lights are a legal form of parking lamp in the USA. Also note that city lights aren't used on vehicles with flip-door (hideaway) headlamps.
Optional: thin-shell polyurethane impact guards to prevent the lamps being rock damaged or "sandblasted" in normal daily use. For use only on vehicles NOT equipped with hide-away (flip-up/flip-down) headlamps.
Prices at http://lighting.mbz.org/prices
Carefully pack and ship two lamps with whatever accessories you wish, $19
ORDERING INSTRUCTIONS
Please indicate:
The quantity of each item you wish
The type of shipping you wish
(UPS trackable ground shipping is standard; all UPS service levels are
available)
The address to which you want the items shipped (if different from billing
address)
Whether the UPS driver has permission to leave the parcel at your doorstep if you are not available to accept it in person.
VIA PHONE:
303-285-3482 x4983
VIA E-MAIL:
dastern@vrx.net
VIA FAX:
303-285-3482 x4983
Whatever method you use, the following information is required in order to process a credit card order:
Card type
Card number
Expiry date
Your name as it appears on the card
Billing address
Billing phone number
Please don't forget to include a note (such as a printout of our e-mail) stating exactly which items you are ordering, and where you wish them sent.
I look forward to hearing from you.
DS
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