The_7

I havent changed the timing but yet ill use some silicone rtv on the block off plate and see what happens.

rx7carl, yea i still have the undertray pan, why?

Rx7carl

1- use a coolant system flush from the autoparts store, just make sure it says its safe for aluminum (I think they all are).

2- Watch your mix as winter is comming, you dont want to have it freeze up. A little over 50/50 would be ok I think, maybe 60/40? Use ONLY distilled water so you dont get any mineral deposits in the system.

3- Search the forum, a buch of guys loved the V6 Taurus, Sable fan and shroud. Looks like a factory fit. If I ever get to a junkyard I plan to pick one up too.

4- the heater shouldnt affect this. The main coolant circut ir thru the big rad hoses.

Rx7carl

Cause you need good radiator shrouding to keep the air flowing thru the rad. Without that tray air can just circulate around in a circle, keeping fresh air from being forced thru the rad. This also applies to the rest of the shrouding.

The_7

oh ok, yea the pan and the fan shroud is all in place. the next things on my list are to go get a fan from a junkyard and install that, get some engine flush from autozone, and to seal my blockoff plate. i will post updates.

my other chapters never made it to 3 pages lol

The_7

my acv blockoff plate isnt 100% sealed and the fuel in the sight glass towards the firewall is way below halfway. the one in front is at the half mark tho. i removed the rats nest so no leaks there. it does idle a little bit high. could running lean cause overheating even when its just idleing?

MarkPerez

For what it's worth,,, what heat range spark plugs are in the engine. ??

The_7

ok guys, ive made a little bit of progress. earlier today i got some engine flush at autozone and flushed my engine and refilled it. i started it up and it idled a little bit cooler. i took it for a drive and it stabelized this time at around 5/8 instead of 3/4. i wanted to see how stable it was so i went flying down this road redlining every gear up to 4th and it didnt get any hotter. i kept driving around for a while and then came back and the whole time it didnt go past 5/8.

Rx7carl

Good to hear. Im starting to wonder if your radiator got boiled? Or if they just ripped you off.

The_7

they better have boiled it...or else i will boil them

actually im pretty sure they did because after i got it back, the inside of the inlet and outlet pipe thingys ( ) were alot cleaner.

now that the overheating isnt severe, any suggestions for other things i could do to get it to come down. there is a pretty big vac leak but im not sure if its the acv plate cause i used gasket sealer and bolted it on, but there is a hissing sound in that area. maybe the carb. i think is time to go get the VB rebuild kit in my room i bought a while ago.

edit: when you mix antifreeze & distilled water, do you create the ratio by weight or volume?

Northern 7

iTrader: (3)

OK - sounds like progress but..
Don't redline your car when your running 5/8's on the guage - you haven't fixed it yet! That's still very hot on the stock guage - it should be well below the half way mark

Get some carb cleaner and spray down all the inlets into the carb (the ones you've blcoked off) and especially around the ACV - you will notice a RPM jump if you hit a leak. That "gasket in a tube" ain't great to begin with, especially if you ran the car before it set properly. If you are actually hearing a leak (hissing), you could have one big *** leak to fix. Not to give you a hard time but you've posted a half dozen times since you were last asked to check for leaks - I would suggest you do the checking before you take it out for any more redline runs - you are going to fry that engine. Good Luck

The_7

ok i went out to check for vacuum leaks. i sprayed around everything i blocked off, both sides of the carb, all over the acv plate, nothing. i couldnt notice any change in rpm. i took off the air cleaner lid and gave a little spray down the carb just to see what would happen and the rpm when down...i thought it was supposed to go up? but anyway i didnt notice a change in rpm but i still hear that hissing noise....

bliffle

My 83 is OK on the highway, but goes up to 2/3 in town. I replaced rad, hoses, pump, thermo last year. So this makes it look like a classic fan clutch failure, to me. I'll get a replacement at the boneyard, maybe tomorrow. There's also one on ebay, but boneyard is faster.

For the last 2 months it's been losing a little coolant, and has started poorly, so I concluded manifold ORings were dead.

B

Rx7carl

Quote:

now that the overheating isnt severe, any suggestions for other things i could do to get it to come down. there is a pretty big vac leak but im not sure if its the acv plate cause i used gasket sealer and bolted it on, but there is a hissing sound in that area. maybe the carb. i think is time to go get the VB rebuild kit in my room i bought a while ago.

Whats your idle set at? If you have a big *** vac leak it wont idle. ALso, make sure your engine block to chassis ground connection is good. A bad ground can throw off your gauge readings.

Quote:

edit: when you mix antifreeze & distilled water, do you create the ratio by weight or volume?

Volume. Man that would suck to have to do it by weight.

Rx7carl

Depends on what your spraying. Ive found that carb cleaner makes teh rpms drop, whereas starting fluid makes it jump up. Spray around the intake to engine interface as well. The hissing may just be from the carb. Does it change volume when you remove the air cleaner housing?

The_7

do you mean rpm? i can get it to idle around 800 but its not very stable, it jumps around from 800-1000.

good idea, im gonna clean the connections real good. i dont think its an electrical problem but ill do it anyway jsut to make sure.

lol, alright, im gonna refill it. do you think i could go a little more than 60/40 safely? also, im gonna change the oil and filter. the oil is fine but the filter is the one i put on when i got the car 7 months ago. that might increase the circulation of the oil system. does oil get pumped into the rotors from the eshaft?

Rx7carl

**** yea, go 75/25, just dont leave it that way when winter comes.

Id suggest you change the filter. Yes, oil goes thru the eshaft, pressure lubes the rotor bearings, and also goes into the hollow part of the rotor to cool it.

The_7

ill go do that now ................................................ .................................................. ..............HAHA, I found the leak! it wasnt the acv plate. i was messing around on that side of the carb pushing things around and all of the sudden i see it. there is a vacuum tube running with little T adapter and an outlet in the middle. i stuck my finger over it and intantly the hissing went away and the idle smoothed out. i plugged it with a stray vac plug i found laying around. so know we know there arent any vacuum leaks. im not sure what that tube goes to tho but its on the passenger side of the carb and it connects to some thingamabob on the front right corner of the carb.

edit: ok ill go to 75/25 and then drop down to 60/40 when it gets too cold.

Northern 7

iTrader: (3)

I agree and I've also used starting fluid myself, however, I don't like to recommend it to others on the forum, especially if I don't know them (but it does work the best even on small leaks). That stuff is very flammable and I don't want someone getting hurt based on my advice. Carb cleaner is safer but tougher to detect leaks.

Rx7carl

Ah, is it a solenoid with an orange connector on it? Thats for the altitude compensator.

Rx7carl

double post sorry.

Rx7carl

Good point, thank you for stating that.

inittab

How do you know for certain that your gauge is reading correctly? Have you gotten a second opinion yet?

I'm talking about a completely independent temperature reading from different sensor and different gauge. I've seen setups that go in-line on the radiator hose. Seems to be the logical thing to do at this point.

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

install a new radiator cap yet?

was the radiator really rusty and dirty inside before getting boiled? if so that tells me the engine's coolant passages are rust and dirty too. might want to do another prestone coolant flush.

i've had good success running CLR and Lime Away thru the engine to clean it!!! Be sure to flush with lots of water.

Rx7carl

Good idea, I bet that lime away/CLR stuff will clean all your mineral deposits out. Yes a major flush would be in order after that as I bet itts not aluminum friendly.

bliffle

Someone recommended propane (from a hand torch) for detecting vac leaks.

B