SS124A

Blake,

I am down for atleast one too

Hopefully it will fit the 3....

Please PM me as soon as these are available.

I think for prototyping purposes.. I will opt to purchase both the flat-bar and the turn-buckle style....

I hope you are using a small sperical bushing sorta set-up.

Again, please PM me so I can get some funds your way.,

BTW, prototypes, and engineering model versions are fine with me.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Nevermind. I was an *** and didn't read the entire thread... V-Belt, not Serp... Gotcha.

jayroc

Can you use the stock v-belts, or do you need a different model?
This is really cool, man. I would really like one if the price is right. How much are you shooting for? $50-60 sounds pretty reasonable to me.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

I'm down for one.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Plus I'd personally rather have the bar adjuster type. Not at all worth the extra cost. Function over form...

g17-jimmy

I'll take one, pm me.

Hades12

Wow. Looks great.


Will we have to cut off the Studs on the motor to use this?

Blake

Yes, Rod Ends, aka Heim Joints or Rose Joints.


You take two rod ends, one threaded right hand (convensionally) and the other threaded left hand (back assward), then use a section of hex rod between them, threaded to match the rod ends at either side. So, you can adjust the length by turning the hex rod with a wrench...one way extends, the other retracts. Jam nuts are used to hold the ajustment.

Here is a picture of a 'supersized' version I made for the lower trailing links of the suspension on my old peripheral port 13B car.



The difference is that those rod ends cost over $30 each and the baby-sized ones for the tensioner would be a fraction of that. Actually, the retail value of the rod ends would be higher than the cost of the tensioner assembly, but I get WD (Warehouse Distributor) pricing so I can keep the cost reasonable.

I want to do the turnbuckle tensioner for my own vehicle because I like the precision of adjustment, as opposed to the pry and pray style flat bars. It also looks much cooler!

--
Blake Qualley
Pineapple Racing

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Nice bracket. I want one and I prefer no tensioner. price please (I didnt see it).

Blake

No, but you will have to remove them as the kit will come with some button-head bolts that use those threaded holes. Originally, I was going to just use nuts to fasten the bracket to the studs, but they stick out way too far and would force me to mount the alternator even farther out.

Blake

No tensioner at all...not even the flat one?

Price will be between $50 and $85, including hardware and the belt. Variables in the cost include the finish (powder coating, cad plating, etc), type of tensioner, packaging, etc. I still have to make a welding jig, so that every one is exactly the same. One-offs are easy, but production is a PITA!

Hades12

I have never had a reason to take them out. Do they remove easy?

Stud Puller?
Two nuts pulled against each other?
Pipe wrench?

Blake

Personally, I use a stud puller kit, but if you don't want to spend the money, you can either just wrench them out with vicegrips (if you don't mind tossing the studs in the trash...it's not like they're expensive to replace, anyway) or by using the double-nut trick (jaming two nuts together and using a wrench to turn the stud out). It may help to spray some PB Blaster or other penetrating lubricant in there. With a proper stud puller, the studs come out quite easily.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Im fine with krylon paint job. so count me in for 1 bracket.

thanks

d0 Luck

maybe i've missed it, but is this mod just for looks?? i know you mention about less water pump slippage, but i have had no problems whatsoever when i removed my air pump. it's been like this for the past 2 years and temps. are the way i would like them to be.

so is this form over function??

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

picture that bracket on this one.

Blake

Any weight you move lower is benefitial to handling (lower CG) and it also allows you to use an electric water pump, so those are both good, functional reasons to relocate the alternator. And, for any of us running IDA or Holley manifolds, the damn altenator sticks up like a sore thumb...admittedly, that's an appearance issue, but still a valid reason to relocate the alternator. There is, also, more contact between the belt and water pump, but there are many other ways to eliminate belt slippage, so put that down as a side-benefit.

d0 Luck

yeah i actually saw it

question is: is it by a significant amount? i'm not detesting this mod in any way, i'm just really curious if it's worth spending my money on it in the future.

Hades12

I am running a DCOE and the filter rubs on the Alt Connections.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

DoLuck,
There's your answer. here's mine: easier to run the turbo plumbing with the alternator out of the way.

Blake

Honestly, it may not be worth it if you are measuring dollars invested vs. improvements in lap time, if that's your criteria. But, then, few things would meet that standard. To me, it's a means to mount an electric water pump adaptor, plus it looks really cool. It certainly can't hurt to move it, regardless. You will have to judge the value for yourself.

Blake

Okay, I took some pictures on the 12A Turbo in the shop. Hopefully, this will give you a better idea of how it will look.

evil_motors

iTrader: (3)

where is that website now? it doesnt exsist anymore. anyone know the real one?

evil_motors

iTrader: (3)

can you take the old bracket off.. or is it still going to be there?

Slammed_GSL

iTrader: (14)

can you use your dual pulley you have now or go back to the single pulley. I like the CAD (gold) finish, easy to keep clean and less corrosion. Nice job Blake!