TO all T-2 swap folks... what is the least amount of sensors you can use (stock ECU)
10-03-12, 07:36 AM
#1
common sense prevails....
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chino and Lake Arrowhead Calif
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
TO all T-2 swap folks... what is the least amount of sensors you can use (stock ECU)
I am switching in a 1988 T-2 engine into my 1st gen. I want to use the stock ECU and eliminate most of the "un-needed" stuff.
I figure I need the boost sensor, Air Flow meter, air temp, water temp, crank angle sensor, throttle position sensor.... What else do I need and or what can I live without?
I want to run my car in open loop always (no need for O2 sensor) and I want to minimize excess crap under the hood..
Ideas???
I figure I need the boost sensor, Air Flow meter, air temp, water temp, crank angle sensor, throttle position sensor.... What else do I need and or what can I live without?
I want to run my car in open loop always (no need for O2 sensor) and I want to minimize excess crap under the hood..
Ideas???
10-03-12, 08:35 AM
#2
I haven't had much first hand experience with S4's, but S5's are similiar enough... You've got the basics covered, but here are a few other things to consider.
On the S5 (I assume S4 has it as well) there is a boost duty solenoid that controls the wastegate. If you get rid of that you'll need a boost controller of some kind.
FC's use a fuel pump resistor setup (on S5's at least, again s4's should have it too) to vary voltage to the fuel pump and lower pressure at idle etc. Since you're building a track car you could probably get rid of that and just run the pump off a relay that is always on with the key. Also on the subject of fuel there is a solenoid in the rats nest (again I'm basing this on S5) that controls the FPR. You might want to mod the secondary rail to use an aftermarket adjustable FPR to simplify things.
Personally I'd run a wideband if I were you to monitor AFR's, espeically if you plan on turning up the boost and run different injectors (like yours has) but it's not 100% needed
Oh and keep that fuel cut defenser on there!
On the S5 (I assume S4 has it as well) there is a boost duty solenoid that controls the wastegate. If you get rid of that you'll need a boost controller of some kind.
FC's use a fuel pump resistor setup (on S5's at least, again s4's should have it too) to vary voltage to the fuel pump and lower pressure at idle etc. Since you're building a track car you could probably get rid of that and just run the pump off a relay that is always on with the key. Also on the subject of fuel there is a solenoid in the rats nest (again I'm basing this on S5) that controls the FPR. You might want to mod the secondary rail to use an aftermarket adjustable FPR to simplify things.
Personally I'd run a wideband if I were you to monitor AFR's, espeically if you plan on turning up the boost and run different injectors (like yours has) but it's not 100% needed
Oh and keep that fuel cut defenser on there!
10-03-12, 10:41 AM
#3
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,780
Received 2,565 Likes
on
1,824 Posts
run all the stock sensors and then you can smog it and then you can drive it on the street!
10-04-12, 03:22 AM
#5
common sense prevails....
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chino and Lake Arrowhead Calif
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
I haven't had much first hand experience with S4's, but S5's are similiar enough... You've got the basics covered, but here are a few other things to consider.
On the S5 (I assume S4 has it as well) there is a boost duty solenoid that controls the wastegate. If you get rid of that you'll need a boost controller of some kind.
FC's use a fuel pump resistor setup (on S5's at least, again s4's should have it too) to vary voltage to the fuel pump and lower pressure at idle etc. Since you're building a track car you could probably get rid of that and just run the pump off a relay that is always on with the key. Also on the subject of fuel there is a solenoid in the rats nest (again I'm basing this on S5) that controls the FPR. You might want to mod the secondary rail to use an aftermarket adjustable FPR to simplify things.
Personally I'd run a wideband if I were you to monitor AFR's, espeically if you plan on turning up the boost and run different injectors (like yours has) but it's not 100% needed Oh and keep that fuel cut defenser on there!
On the S5 (I assume S4 has it as well) there is a boost duty solenoid that controls the wastegate. If you get rid of that you'll need a boost controller of some kind.
FC's use a fuel pump resistor setup (on S5's at least, again s4's should have it too) to vary voltage to the fuel pump and lower pressure at idle etc. Since you're building a track car you could probably get rid of that and just run the pump off a relay that is always on with the key. Also on the subject of fuel there is a solenoid in the rats nest (again I'm basing this on S5) that controls the FPR. You might want to mod the secondary rail to use an aftermarket adjustable FPR to simplify things.
Personally I'd run a wideband if I were you to monitor AFR's, espeically if you plan on turning up the boost and run different injectors (like yours has) but it's not 100% needed
Oh and keep that fuel cut defenser on there!I am thinking of using the AEM wideband.
10-04-12, 10:49 AM
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,780
Received 2,565 Likes
on
1,824 Posts
the tricks to the turbo are;
1. don't get greedy. 8psi and the engine running is better than 12psi and a broken engine.
2. baby steps! make sure its fine @stock boost, then raise it 1-2psi, make sure its ok, then go the next step. if you go slow you should be able to have it live @10-12psi/220-250rwhp
mods: you do want a bigger than stock fuel pump. since you're putting the engine in the FB chassis, front mounting the stock intercooler is good, and then later you can go bigger. a cold air intake is good too.
the stock turbo is fairly useless above 10psi, and keeping the boost lower will keep power from falling off up top so hard.
1. don't get greedy. 8psi and the engine running is better than 12psi and a broken engine.
2. baby steps! make sure its fine @stock boost, then raise it 1-2psi, make sure its ok, then go the next step. if you go slow you should be able to have it live @10-12psi/220-250rwhp
mods: you do want a bigger than stock fuel pump. since you're putting the engine in the FB chassis, front mounting the stock intercooler is good, and then later you can go bigger. a cold air intake is good too.
the stock turbo is fairly useless above 10psi, and keeping the boost lower will keep power from falling off up top so hard.
Trending Topics
10-05-12, 03:18 AM
#8
common sense prevails....
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chino and Lake Arrowhead Calif
Posts: 1,669
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
the tricks to the turbo are;
1. don't get greedy. 8psi and the engine running is better than 12psi and a broken engine.
2. baby steps! make sure its fine @stock boost, then raise it 1-2psi, make sure its ok, then go the next step. if you go slow you should be able to have it live @10-12psi/220-250rwhp
mods: you do want a bigger than stock fuel pump. since you're putting the engine in the FB chassis, front mounting the stock intercooler is good, and then later you can go bigger. a cold air intake is good too.
the stock turbo is fairly useless above 10psi, and keeping the boost lower will keep power from falling off up top so hard.
1. don't get greedy. 8psi and the engine running is better than 12psi and a broken engine.
2. baby steps! make sure its fine @stock boost, then raise it 1-2psi, make sure its ok, then go the next step. if you go slow you should be able to have it live @10-12psi/220-250rwhp
mods: you do want a bigger than stock fuel pump. since you're putting the engine in the FB chassis, front mounting the stock intercooler is good, and then later you can go bigger. a cold air intake is good too.
the stock turbo is fairly useless above 10psi, and keeping the boost lower will keep power from falling off up top so hard.
My friend is very good at tuning Power FC's by Apex i. I wonder if they make a universal harness for the Power FC so I can build from scratch instead of using a 25 year old wiring harness!!??
10-05-12, 12:25 PM
#10
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,780
Received 2,565 Likes
on
1,824 Posts
Sounds like the steps I should take. I really am wanting to minimize the wiring and sensors/relays I put in the FB. I will slowly see what I can eliminate out of the FC and it still run right. Then I will make the swap.
My friend is very good at tuning Power FC's by Apex i. I wonder if they make a universal harness for the Power FC so I can build from scratch instead of using a 25 year old wiring harness!!??
My friend is very good at tuning Power FC's by Apex i. I wonder if they make a universal harness for the Power FC so I can build from scratch instead of using a 25 year old wiring harness!!??
the S4 connectors are all available new if you hunt around, so you're on your own to actually MAKE the harness but it could be done.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
25
07-01-23 04:40 PM
befarrer
Microtech
3
08-22-15 05:52 PM
