1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

AIT for '84 GSL-SE

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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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AIT for '84 GSL-SE

Does anyone know where I can get an air intake temp sensor for my 84 SE engine? I cant seem to find one anywhere....? thanks all help is appreciated
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:17 PM
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Use one from a 2nd gen engine, they are the same.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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the one in the back of the intake with a black plug right?
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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The skinny brass one with 2 male prongs sticking out.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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ya im talking about the one that screws into the driver's side of the intake where it says RE-EGI and has a black plug on it.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 03:18 PM
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The factory part # is N326 18 845A but shows no longer available. You can have your local Mada Dealership do a search Nationwide to see if anyone has one.
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Old Dec 5, 2009 | 11:15 PM
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say i cant get one....what would my options be?
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 11:40 AM
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If the AIT is non-op, then the ecu defaults to a preset temp, 72*?. It's purpose is to tell the ecu the incoming air temperature so it can adjust fuel mixture.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Rx-7Doctor
The factory part # is N326 18 845A but shows no longer available. You can have your local Mada Dealership do a search Nationwide to see if anyone has one.
the GSL-SE actually uses N236-18-845A, we always had problems with the n236/n326, really easy to get it mixed up.

you can use the FC air temp sensor, which is N326-18-845, it just doesnt have the little harness on it
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
the GSL-SE actually uses N236-18-845A, we always had problems with the n236/n326, really easy to get it mixed up.

you can use the FC air temp sensor, which is N326-18-845, it just doesnt have the little harness on it
so i take it that it wouldnt matter which side the wires were on? since its just a temp sensor
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 01:53 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by workinprogress80
so i take it that it wouldnt matter which side the wires were on? since its just a temp sensor
yeah, its just a resistance, so there is no polarity
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
yeah, its just a resistance, so there is no polarity
10-04 thanks guys
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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Was this from a interchange that Mazda supplied as I looked up the factory part per the factory catalog?



Originally Posted by j9fd3s
the GSL-SE actually uses N236-18-845A, we always had problems with the n236/n326, really easy to get it mixed up.

you can use the FC air temp sensor, which is N326-18-845, it just doesnt have the little harness on it
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Old Dec 9, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Rx-7Doctor
Was this from a interchange that Mazda supplied as I looked up the factory part per the factory catalog?
mazda used n326 and n236 and its really really easy to mix em up, and it doesnt help that they are both rx7 parts, so as we've seen n326-18-845 and n236-18-845 are both air temp sensors, which doesn't help...

its just one of those gotchas mazda has in the parts system (the rx8 is worse, it shares fe0x prefixes with the 86 b2000...)

i worked or ran a mazda parts dept since 1997, so ive done this before too
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 09:49 AM
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I know the post is old. So is there any alternative ?? Ive ripped the wires out of mines on accident. Need a replacement bad.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 10:15 AM
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Post a pic of what you have,it is possible it can be repaired,have done a handful successfully.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 11:42 AM
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Hey, first off, welcome aboard! Secondly, we usually don't take kindly to new guys bumping old, OLD threads - but this one has some good information in it about the various part #'s that are in play...

As to repairing a damaged RE-EGI Intake Air Temp Sensor, I've had this happen too, as the location of the wiring harness to the sensor is such that it sees a lot of vibration on top of the engine, and usually fatigues the wiring which makes a 90deg bend to get to the sensor. Over time, the wiring usually flexes enough to break off right as the copper wires exit from the base of the sensor. To repair yourself (*if you're good with a soldering iron), you can melt the plastic in the base of the sensor which holds the wires in place just enough to expose enough of the wires to clean them up, flux them, and solder the wires back on. Two strips of heat-shrink on the harness beforehand makes for a clean installation and gives the wires some additional support against future fatigue failure. You don't have to melt a lot of the base, just enough to expose what you need to solder back onto. As the guys mentioned above, this is a resistance sensor, so polarity doesn't matter - just solder the 2 wires separately onto the 2 exposed wire segments within the base making sure they're not touching each other or the brass base, and you should be good.

I've used this fix also on the Oil Temp Sensor located in the oil pan, and the plastic which Mazda used to seal the connections against weather gets hard over time but melts easily. If you wanted to go that extra step, you could apply some JB weld to the base of the wiring, but then you've made it harder on any future repair...

Good luck, and yet another case for buying spare intake assemblies for those times when you just want to swap in a part,

Last edited by LongDuck; Aug 2, 2019 at 11:44 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 03:20 PM
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Heres a pic of it

Last edited by Boogdidit; Aug 2, 2019 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Aug 2, 2019 | 03:36 PM
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