AIT for '84 GSL-SE
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Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
you can use the FC air temp sensor, which is N326-18-845, it just doesnt have the little harness on it
so i take it that it wouldnt matter which side the wires were on? since its just a temp sensor
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Was this from a interchange that Mazda supplied as I looked up the factory part per the factory catalog?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
its just one of those gotchas mazda has in the parts system (the rx8 is worse, it shares fe0x prefixes with the 86 b2000...)
i worked or ran a mazda parts dept since 1997, so ive done this before too
Hey, first off, welcome aboard! Secondly, we usually don't take kindly to new guys bumping old, OLD threads - but this one has some good information in it about the various part #'s that are in play...
As to repairing a damaged RE-EGI Intake Air Temp Sensor, I've had this happen too, as the location of the wiring harness to the sensor is such that it sees a lot of vibration on top of the engine, and usually fatigues the wiring which makes a 90deg bend to get to the sensor. Over time, the wiring usually flexes enough to break off right as the copper wires exit from the base of the sensor. To repair yourself (*if you're good with a soldering iron), you can melt the plastic in the base of the sensor which holds the wires in place just enough to expose enough of the wires to clean them up, flux them, and solder the wires back on. Two strips of heat-shrink on the harness beforehand makes for a clean installation and gives the wires some additional support against future fatigue failure. You don't have to melt a lot of the base, just enough to expose what you need to solder back onto. As the guys mentioned above, this is a resistance sensor, so polarity doesn't matter - just solder the 2 wires separately onto the 2 exposed wire segments within the base making sure they're not touching each other or the brass base, and you should be good.
I've used this fix also on the Oil Temp Sensor located in the oil pan, and the plastic which Mazda used to seal the connections against weather gets hard over time but melts easily. If you wanted to go that extra step, you could apply some JB weld to the base of the wiring, but then you've made it harder on any future repair...
Good luck, and yet another case for buying spare intake assemblies for those times when you just want to swap in a part,
As to repairing a damaged RE-EGI Intake Air Temp Sensor, I've had this happen too, as the location of the wiring harness to the sensor is such that it sees a lot of vibration on top of the engine, and usually fatigues the wiring which makes a 90deg bend to get to the sensor. Over time, the wiring usually flexes enough to break off right as the copper wires exit from the base of the sensor. To repair yourself (*if you're good with a soldering iron), you can melt the plastic in the base of the sensor which holds the wires in place just enough to expose enough of the wires to clean them up, flux them, and solder the wires back on. Two strips of heat-shrink on the harness beforehand makes for a clean installation and gives the wires some additional support against future fatigue failure. You don't have to melt a lot of the base, just enough to expose what you need to solder back onto. As the guys mentioned above, this is a resistance sensor, so polarity doesn't matter - just solder the 2 wires separately onto the 2 exposed wire segments within the base making sure they're not touching each other or the brass base, and you should be good.
I've used this fix also on the Oil Temp Sensor located in the oil pan, and the plastic which Mazda used to seal the connections against weather gets hard over time but melts easily. If you wanted to go that extra step, you could apply some JB weld to the base of the wiring, but then you've made it harder on any future repair...
Good luck, and yet another case for buying spare intake assemblies for those times when you just want to swap in a part,
Last edited by LongDuck; Aug 2, 2019 at 11:44 AM.
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