85 GSL-SE, starts then dies...
02-04-14, 08:03 PM
#1
Airframe & Powerplant
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85 GSL-SE, starts then dies...
Well hello again community, long time no see. I know about the search button and yes, i checked it. Other people have had this problem but I can't find any info SE specific. Maybe someone can provide a link if i overlooked a post.
Anyway, my car starts but dies. It's an 84-85 GSL-SE with the stock 13b. I just recently changed the injectors but failed to change the fuel filter due to budget restraints. Now I'm getting ready to change the fuel filter as I suspect it is clogged up. My fuel level sender is not functional and I only fill up when my car bogs due to fuel starvation while turning. I'm sure this doesn't help, especially with almost 30 years of sediment on the bottom of the tank.
Aside from the filter, is there anything else anyone might add that I need to check? Ignition, timing, and all the vacuum lines seem to be all good. Someone did mention the coils on early rotaries in another thread involving 2 wires, one for cranking and one for idle. Who knows?
Anyway, my car starts but dies. It's an 84-85 GSL-SE with the stock 13b. I just recently changed the injectors but failed to change the fuel filter due to budget restraints. Now I'm getting ready to change the fuel filter as I suspect it is clogged up. My fuel level sender is not functional and I only fill up when my car bogs due to fuel starvation while turning. I'm sure this doesn't help, especially with almost 30 years of sediment on the bottom of the tank.
Aside from the filter, is there anything else anyone might add that I need to check? Ignition, timing, and all the vacuum lines seem to be all good. Someone did mention the coils on early rotaries in another thread involving 2 wires, one for cranking and one for idle. Who knows?
02-04-14, 10:48 PM
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emissions r teh sux
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My guess is that its the fuel filter. While the old filter is off i would clear the lines to make sure no sediment has made its way inside of them. Flushing the tank would probably be a good thing to do since your sender doesnt work and you fill when it starts showing signs of starvation. That will prevent future issues with sediment.
Other than that i cant really think of anything else off the top of my head. Unless your injectors are clogged too...
Other than that i cant really think of anything else off the top of my head. Unless your injectors are clogged too...
02-05-14, 02:15 AM
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emissions r teh sux
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Also check the fuel pump and make sure it is working within specs. If it is the original it may not be a bad idea to replace it anyways as preventative maintenance.
02-05-14, 08:23 AM
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1st Gens are the Best
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There is a small plastic conical in line screen filter at the fuel pump inlet. There is no filter between the tank and the fuel pump inlet besides this screen. My bet is that it is clogged. Plan on dropping the tank and doing a complete cleaning and coating on the inside.
02-11-14, 10:58 PM
#6
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
"Starts, then dies" is a little ambiguous - can you tell us a bit more to help you diagnose the problem?
Fuel is one thing, and the other part of the equation is Air and Spark. If it starts at all, you're getting spark, so the next place to look is for air once you've gotten the fuel flow issues check and verified. Check the air filter for cleanliness and leaves/debris which can clog the filter element and prevent flow. Also, with the filter out, take a pencil or clean stick and push in on the AFM (Air Flow Meter) door, which should slide freely and smoothly. If it's sticking at all, spray some light lubricant in there and give it time to soak in. Sometimes, the door will get sticky in cold conditions or if any moisture has found it's way in the intake (rain getting past the filter element), which will prevent the engine from getting enough air at startup to remain running.
Have a look at the suggestions here and good luck,
Fuel is one thing, and the other part of the equation is Air and Spark. If it starts at all, you're getting spark, so the next place to look is for air once you've gotten the fuel flow issues check and verified. Check the air filter for cleanliness and leaves/debris which can clog the filter element and prevent flow. Also, with the filter out, take a pencil or clean stick and push in on the AFM (Air Flow Meter) door, which should slide freely and smoothly. If it's sticking at all, spray some light lubricant in there and give it time to soak in. Sometimes, the door will get sticky in cold conditions or if any moisture has found it's way in the intake (rain getting past the filter element), which will prevent the engine from getting enough air at startup to remain running.
Have a look at the suggestions here and good luck,
02-16-14, 03:28 PM
#7
1)so it starts when the ignition key is in the "start" position, but when the key returns to the "run" position the car dies???
or
2) it starts fine and runs for a little bit in the "run" position and than it dies
if its 1, you may have an electrical issue with either the ignition switch or coils, using a test light, turn the key to the run position and check for power at the positive post of the leading coil... if you don't have power, you have an electrical issue that you need to track down, could be a bad fuse/fusable link or a bad ignition switch.
if its 2, you may have a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter or contaminated fuel or clogged float bowls... disconnect the fuel feed line and shove it into a empty water bottle or something to catch the fuel... turn the ignition key on for a couple seconds and see how much fuel comes out, if its just a dribble, than it obvious there is a problem between the fuel tank and the carb ***** disclaimer - always be very careful when working with gasoline, it is extremely flammable and dangerous*****
if the fuel pressure and volume are within spec at that point, you probably have a problem with the carb or contaminated fuel
or
2) it starts fine and runs for a little bit in the "run" position and than it dies
if its 1, you may have an electrical issue with either the ignition switch or coils, using a test light, turn the key to the run position and check for power at the positive post of the leading coil... if you don't have power, you have an electrical issue that you need to track down, could be a bad fuse/fusable link or a bad ignition switch.
if its 2, you may have a bad fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter or contaminated fuel or clogged float bowls... disconnect the fuel feed line and shove it into a empty water bottle or something to catch the fuel... turn the ignition key on for a couple seconds and see how much fuel comes out, if its just a dribble, than it obvious there is a problem between the fuel tank and the carb ***** disclaimer - always be very careful when working with gasoline, it is extremely flammable and dangerous*****
if the fuel pressure and volume are within spec at that point, you probably have a problem with the carb or contaminated fuel
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