1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

84 rx7 for 1k...checking it out on tuesday.

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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 05:58 PM
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84 rx7 for 1k...checking it out on tuesday.

I know this is a VERY vague question, but what are things I should be looking for when checking out the car? Common problems in this generation, etc....if possible, could you name anything that's pretty important to look out for?
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 06:20 PM
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oh...and all i've found out about the car so far is that it has 120k miles. says it runs great, and selling due to it not being needed. *shrug*
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 06:24 PM
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Check behind the rear wheels. It rusts out there commonly...

Alternatively, you should check under the storage bins behind the seats... They're held in by some phillips screws... Just pull em out and check for rust... Some rust is reparable, some is not...

Check for white smoke on startup, look for oil leaks...

See if water will drain through the holes near the bottom of the rear hatch and around the sunroof if it has one... Check for rust there too. And at the bottom of the doors.

Aside from that, these are pretty solid cars.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 06:34 PM
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if there aren't very many problems spotted, is 1k a good deal? let's say if there's a couple cosmetic problems spotted, and a bit of rust here and there.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 07:03 PM
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Originally posted by oNi BaKa
if there aren't very many problems spotted, is 1k a good deal? let's say if there's a couple cosmetic problems spotted, and a bit of rust here and there.
Surface rust isnt so bad... If the sign says $1000, I'd offer 800 and see what he says.

Take a grand in cash just in case... Bring a friend, Have your friend hold $200... Offer the guy $800 and if he says no way, have your friend "loan" you the extra $200...

That's how I get down.

Do you know what trim the RX-7 is? It'd be stamped on the rear to the left... GS, GSL, or GSL-SE... If nothing is stamped, either it's an S or it's been removed...

Check the rear end... First look at the wheels... Instant notice if it's GSL-SE or not... GSL-SE wheels have like 12 slots in them... They're 14 inch rims... Looks like this:



GSL-SE always has a disc brake rear end.

Lower models look like a +... They're 13 inch... Looks like this:



If they're the + wheels, look through them... See the brakes... If you see a shiny metal disc, it's GSL, if not, you see a finned drum, then it's GS or S... Either of which is just optional stuff (Power windows, mirrors, sunroof, etc.)

If it's anything OTHER than the wheels above, it's a good chance that it's GSL-SE... The lower models have a hard to find bolt pattern.

Last edited by Pele; Jul 11, 2004 at 07:18 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 07:03 PM
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I just purchase an 84 GSL with 95k. Has a few bumps and bruises but not bad for a 20 year old car, no visable rust. Everything on the car works with the exception of the rear washer. I paid $1000. Two weeks after purchase, my son noticed a small rust hole in the rear wheel well. Well to be short it cost $500 just to make the car safe to drive. On the inside there is a small vinyl piece foward of the wheel well, tell the seller you would like to have him or her take that off and lift up the carpet and inspect the wheel wells beside the bins. This is a very common rust area.

Blueraven
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 07:17 PM
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Not sure about the trim....all the guy (co-worker's friend) says is that it has 120k miles, runs great. N/A if I remember right. Think I remember hearing "no rust", but I doubt he checked the wheel well.
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 07:20 PM
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Are there any small tests I should give the car as well? Since my co-worker is gonna bring it down to my work, I don't think a coldstart is possible to test. If the O-rings are blown, it should always have white-billowing smoke during startup right?
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Old Jul 11, 2004 | 07:44 PM
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally posted by oNi BaKa
Are there any small tests I should give the car as well? Since my co-worker is gonna bring it down to my work, I don't think a coldstart is possible to test. If the O-rings are blown, it should always have white-billowing smoke during startup right?
Let it cool down during work... Test it when you get outta work.

White billowing smoke is coolant... Bluish would be oil...

You also wanna wait till it cools down to check the quality of the coolant
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 04:44 AM
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just a general test......put u'r hands ova the tail pipe(s) and listen for leaks in the exhaust. also if there is no pressure build up it's got a problem.......
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 06:59 AM
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No rust? That's what my seller told me, of course the rust was hidden behind the vinyl and carpet. I don't know if my seller knew the extent of the rust problem, but I'm confident he did know it had rust. I might note, I've looked at three other 1st Gen 7's in the junk yards and two of them had no rust in wells and the third had minor rust so not all 7's rusted here, just something to be aware of. As fars as running condition, take it for a ride, remember these engines are high rpm engines, so do be afraid to rap it out. My son normally cranks his out to 5000-5500 rpms everytime he takes off. Also don't be discouraged if it seems a little doggish, if these engines are driven like a piston engine, carbon sometimes builds up and needs to be blasted out through driving. I bet my son's 84 is cranking out 20-30 more hp since we bought the car, just due to him rapping it out.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 07:01 AM
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I meant DON'T be afraid to rap it out.
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Old Jul 12, 2004 | 10:10 PM
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Kk...thanks for all the info...wish me luck..gonna look at it 2morrow...=D
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Old Jul 13, 2004 | 10:29 PM
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GRR!!! the bastard sold it already!!!!
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