84 GSL SE Igniter - How to Test
84 GSL SE Ignitor - How to Test
How can you tell if one or both of your ignitors are bad?
Besides looking at the dashboard tach, how can you test?
Do both need to be good for the car to start?
Thanks for reading.
Besides looking at the dashboard tach, how can you test?
Do both need to be good for the car to start?
Thanks for reading.
Last edited by RXrick; Aug 9, 2015 at 11:37 PM.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
best way to test is with a timing light, or the tach. there is a test procedure in the FSM, but its easier than running the car, so a marginal ignitor will pass.
if the car runs or not depends on the model, the 84-85's have the fuel pump and or fuel injection tied into the trailing ignitor, so they won't run at all with the trailing bad, and they run badly with the leading bad.
if the car runs or not depends on the model, the 84-85's have the fuel pump and or fuel injection tied into the trailing ignitor, so they won't run at all with the trailing bad, and they run badly with the leading bad.
Here are a couple of threads on how to build an ignitor tester.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...esting-577683/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...tester-495974/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...esting-577683/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...tester-495974/
best way to test is with a timing light, or the tach. there is a test procedure in the FSM, but its easier than running the car, so a marginal ignitor will pass.
if the car runs or not depends on the model, the 84-85's have the fuel pump and or fuel injection tied into the trailing ignitor, so they won't run at all with the trailing bad, and they run badly with the leading bad.
if the car runs or not depends on the model, the 84-85's have the fuel pump and or fuel injection tied into the trailing ignitor, so they won't run at all with the trailing bad, and they run badly with the leading bad.
best way to test is with a timing light, or the tach. there is a test procedure in the FSM, but its easier than running the car, so a marginal ignitor will pass.
if the car runs or not depends on the model, the 84-85's have the fuel pump and or fuel injection tied into the trailing ignitor, so they won't run at all with the trailing bad, and they run badly with the leading bad.
if the car runs or not depends on the model, the 84-85's have the fuel pump and or fuel injection tied into the trailing ignitor, so they won't run at all with the trailing bad, and they run badly with the leading bad.
Thx
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,233
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
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Someone on another thread of mine said if you can see the tach spike the ignitor is good. I don't see that happening anymore.
It's very hard to diagnosis problems over the internet with 100% confidence. At some point, you need to take the suggestions that are given and test things yourself or hire someone to do it for you.
We can all give our suggestions based on our experience, but none of it means a lot until either a part is replaced or tested. it's time to start testing. This will be a good learning experience also.
We can all give our suggestions based on our experience, but none of it means a lot until either a part is replaced or tested. it's time to start testing. This will be a good learning experience also.
Agree with the KCRepu-man, as there's nothing better than getting your hands onto the problem parts and start testing them.
Unsure what the OP means by 'tach spike', as my 84-SE tach on startup just shows whatever the cranking RPM is for the engine and tends to bounce a bit as the rotors find compression and the RPM bumps along. When it starts, the tach shows actual RPM - so don't know what you mean by 'spike'.
The tach on our cars is driven by the white wire coming off of the bottom spade of the front (Trailing) Coil, so if you're NOT getting a Tach signal, you're not getting trigger of the coil which could be a bad coil or a bad igniter (or a bad coil wire, or a bad ground, or a bad power lead, or...). You won't know until you get in there.
Unsure what the OP means by 'tach spike', as my 84-SE tach on startup just shows whatever the cranking RPM is for the engine and tends to bounce a bit as the rotors find compression and the RPM bumps along. When it starts, the tach shows actual RPM - so don't know what you mean by 'spike'.
The tach on our cars is driven by the white wire coming off of the bottom spade of the front (Trailing) Coil, so if you're NOT getting a Tach signal, you're not getting trigger of the coil which could be a bad coil or a bad igniter (or a bad coil wire, or a bad ground, or a bad power lead, or...). You won't know until you get in there.
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