84 Gs...$300
09-03-05, 08:33 PM
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84 Gs...$300
Hi, I'm new here and I have a question. Since you all know a lot on the subjet at hand I figured it'd be a good place to hopefully get started.
Here's the ad from craigslist.
Project/parts car 5 spd man 106K odo black with brown cloth interior AM/FM cassette w/ graph eq; power antenna; illuminated ignition; aluminum wheels; remote hatch & fuel filler release; quartz digital clock; remote control door mirrors; sunroof; center console, rear storage bins; owners manual; insp Aug 05 needs towed due to starter problem. good body fair mechanical condition
Cash or United States Postal Service money order only accepted as payment.
Would that be a good starter car? Also, what are common things to look out for?
It could be one of those "Pay up now or pay later" kinda things, or it could just be a guy that is tired of the car taking up space. I'm thinking the former, however.
I'm 16 and I want to get my hands dirty with something, and I figured that a $300 sports car that needs some work could be an excellent oppurtunity.
So would you say go for it? I sent the guy an email about it tonight once I saw it, asking for pictures and such. Once I get a response I'll post them. Also are any of you in Pittsburgh that if I decided to get it could look at the car also and give your opinion on it?
TIA
Here's the ad from craigslist.
Project/parts car 5 spd man 106K odo black with brown cloth interior AM/FM cassette w/ graph eq; power antenna; illuminated ignition; aluminum wheels; remote hatch & fuel filler release; quartz digital clock; remote control door mirrors; sunroof; center console, rear storage bins; owners manual; insp Aug 05 needs towed due to starter problem. good body fair mechanical condition
Cash or United States Postal Service money order only accepted as payment.
Would that be a good starter car? Also, what are common things to look out for?
It could be one of those "Pay up now or pay later" kinda things, or it could just be a guy that is tired of the car taking up space. I'm thinking the former, however.
I'm 16 and I want to get my hands dirty with something, and I figured that a $300 sports car that needs some work could be an excellent oppurtunity.
So would you say go for it? I sent the guy an email about it tonight once I saw it, asking for pictures and such. Once I get a response I'll post them. Also are any of you in Pittsburgh that if I decided to get it could look at the car also and give your opinion on it?
TIA
09-03-05, 10:29 PM
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If it's too good to be true, then it is..."starter problem" is a sure sign of a con...if the body is absolutely, perfectly straight EVERYWHERE and all the body panel gaps are also perfect, then buy it regardless of the dead engine...
Last edited by mar3; 09-03-05 at 10:31 PM.
09-03-05, 10:34 PM
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iam 16 got mine last year for $500 CDN there are some things you should look for when buying a 1st gen. LOOK BEHIND STORAGE BINS for rust (most common place) the wheel wells might be rusted out. does the guy know why its not running or did it just die on him? would really help out if you new cause the guys here are really smart when it comes to these not running
09-03-05, 10:37 PM
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All I know is what the guy said in his ad.
mar3, how much would a 12a cost? If I were to get a new engine should I be better off getting a 13b? No point in getting the same thing if you can upgrade right?
Also the whole "fair mechanical condition" thing is a tad worrysome, but since theres a bunch of people that know a lot that shouldn't be a thing to worry about right?
mar3, how much would a 12a cost? If I were to get a new engine should I be better off getting a 13b? No point in getting the same thing if you can upgrade right?
Also the whole "fair mechanical condition" thing is a tad worrysome, but since theres a bunch of people that know a lot that shouldn't be a thing to worry about right?
Last edited by timmer; 09-03-05 at 10:41 PM.
09-03-05, 10:44 PM
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The swap is covered in the FAQ threads. The 13B is a little heavier, but it is also a more robust engine. Look to spend anywhere from $900 to $2500 for a rotary "keg"/shortblock...the engine is the most important thing, the rest of the car is relatively easy to work on because of its good design...at $300, however, that is irrelevant. Make sure the body and glass are perfect and buy it...
Last edited by mar3; 09-03-05 at 10:49 PM.
09-05-05, 07:48 PM
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Here are the pics that he sent me.
That looks in okay shape to me, especially since it has been in Pittsburgh its whole life. But I don't know what good or bad shape looks like for these cars.
That looks in okay shape to me, especially since it has been in Pittsburgh its whole life. But I don't know what good or bad shape looks like for these cars.
Last edited by timmer; 09-05-05 at 08:01 PM.
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09-05-05, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Eriks85Rx7
paint looks nice, for 300 it seems good.
09-06-05, 09:04 PM
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Regarding the starter motor, that is my best guess as to what would need replaced. I drove it back from the truck depot in Houston, PA (I-79 south, beyond Bridgeville) back in February. Long story short, it was my brother's car, he is a truckdriver, slipped on the ice, couldn't drive for several months, can't drive a standard (his truck is now an automatic trans).
The spare tire is not reliable. It hasn't been used since the car was purchased (1989) and I do not believe it has the structural integrity to be used safely. The clutch will probably need replaced in about 10,000 miles/one year, depending on your skill in using a manual transmission. It stops fine, but the brake lines are original, those may need replaced eventually as well. The engine tends to run pretty hot, at highway speeds that is not a big deal, but city driving is likely to cause a boil. This could be a problem somewhere in the cooling system.
When I tried to start the car back in June, it wouldn't turn over. Since I had lights, stereo etc, I figured the battery was okay. A friend (he prefers to work on old Saabs, BMWs and Volvos) suggested to just hit the starter motor with a rubber mallet, as it may just be jammed. Regrettably, the starter motor is on the underside of the vehicle, and cannot be struck readily to confirm his suggestion, as I do not have jackstands etc. I am not sure of the cost of a remanufactured starter.
The car's inspection ran out last day of August. In general, I believe it to be driveable. If you are concerned about cost of fixing the car to good condition, this may be more of a project car than you are ready for. It has not been driven for nearly six months. I have tried to remember as much of my 'driving impression' from February.
The spare tire is not reliable. It hasn't been used since the car was purchased (1989) and I do not believe it has the structural integrity to be used safely. The clutch will probably need replaced in about 10,000 miles/one year, depending on your skill in using a manual transmission. It stops fine, but the brake lines are original, those may need replaced eventually as well. The engine tends to run pretty hot, at highway speeds that is not a big deal, but city driving is likely to cause a boil. This could be a problem somewhere in the cooling system.
When I tried to start the car back in June, it wouldn't turn over. Since I had lights, stereo etc, I figured the battery was okay. A friend (he prefers to work on old Saabs, BMWs and Volvos) suggested to just hit the starter motor with a rubber mallet, as it may just be jammed. Regrettably, the starter motor is on the underside of the vehicle, and cannot be struck readily to confirm his suggestion, as I do not have jackstands etc. I am not sure of the cost of a remanufactured starter.
The car's inspection ran out last day of August. In general, I believe it to be driveable. If you are concerned about cost of fixing the car to good condition, this may be more of a project car than you are ready for. It has not been driven for nearly six months. I have tried to remember as much of my 'driving impression' from February.
09-06-05, 09:13 PM
#13
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hmm that is quite a handful, see why it was repainted make sure its not hiding any nasty rust! Sounds like its time for a new radiator (or fluid change) and to convert it from a clutch fan to a electric fan.
09-07-05, 02:11 PM
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My brother preferred the color black over beige. At the time, there was also some spots of rust from stone chips on the hood
The guy says that the only problem with the interior is the drivers side door panel, and I believe him since he seems to be telling the truth about all of the mechanical stuff also.
09-07-05, 03:55 PM
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It's worth your time to go check it out for $300.
Check the: (Have a flashlight with you day or night, a phillips and flathead screw driver, and a basic socket wrench set {at least a 10mm, 12mm, 13mm and 14mm}) with a couple of extensions and you'll be able to take most everything out you will need to check anything.
storage bins for rust on the wheel well
pull the carpet back *** much as you can to look at the floor boards. If you see signs of discoloration around the sound deading material count on rust being under the material. Try to remove a piece or two by hand, if you can and see rust, not good -- but maybe not TO bad.
pull the tail lights--where the amber signal light is on the FB look down into the backside of the wheel well (arn't you glad you brought your flash light) do you see rust or signs of impending rusting?
look inside the wheels (behind the wheel/tire)
Look at the frame rails in the engine bay, look closely at the drivers side, is there exesive rust from where brake fluid has dripped on it over the past 21 years?
Check the: (Have a flashlight with you day or night, a phillips and flathead screw driver, and a basic socket wrench set {at least a 10mm, 12mm, 13mm and 14mm}) with a couple of extensions and you'll be able to take most everything out you will need to check anything.
storage bins for rust on the wheel well
pull the carpet back *** much as you can to look at the floor boards. If you see signs of discoloration around the sound deading material count on rust being under the material. Try to remove a piece or two by hand, if you can and see rust, not good -- but maybe not TO bad.
pull the tail lights--where the amber signal light is on the FB look down into the backside of the wheel well (arn't you glad you brought your flash light) do you see rust or signs of impending rusting?
look inside the wheels (behind the wheel/tire)
Look at the frame rails in the engine bay, look closely at the drivers side, is there exesive rust from where brake fluid has dripped on it over the past 21 years?
09-07-05, 03:59 PM
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the starter thing can work. But don't count on it. also if you can bring your own jack and stands so to get a good look under the car. Push around on the under panels, if there is an very slight crunching sound and allot of play in the panel it's most likly very rusty.
The only issue with all of this, for $300 the seller may get anoyed at spending all of this time watching you go threw the car, or just may not let you get as detailed as you want. Just ask ahead of time.
All of the little things do add up, but at least it's not a car payment that you HAVE to make. If you don't want to do it, don't do it this month.
Also I have a 12a that is supposed to be in good working order, the PO of this one to gave up on the project. I don't play with Wankles much, so it's up for sale along with the 5 speed. At this point really, if you think it will help you, if you come and get it, it's yours. I live in the baltimore area.
The only issue with all of this, for $300 the seller may get anoyed at spending all of this time watching you go threw the car, or just may not let you get as detailed as you want. Just ask ahead of time.
All of the little things do add up, but at least it's not a car payment that you HAVE to make. If you don't want to do it, don't do it this month.
Also I have a 12a that is supposed to be in good working order, the PO of this one to gave up on the project. I don't play with Wankles much, so it's up for sale along with the 5 speed. At this point really, if you think it will help you, if you come and get it, it's yours. I live in the baltimore area.
Last edited by rotor vs. piston; 09-07-05 at 04:04 PM.
09-08-05, 08:20 AM
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To check the starter, put it in nuetral and try to turn the flywheel on the front of the engine. If this turns, then you most likely are looking at a starter issue. If it does not turn, then you have a seized engine. Good luck!
09-08-05, 10:38 AM
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Even if the front pulley will not turn it could be just excess carbon. You can probably get the car in good working order without TOO much trouble. Like I said I am close by and anytime you need help you can let me know.
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